RevUp Oil Consumption TSB and discussion
#441
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Durden76
All, there is a theory regarding inconsistent consumption that I believe to be correct. I myself have had inconsistent readings ranging from 0.5qt/1k mi. to 1.5qt/1k mi. When the car is driven solely in rush hour traffic, it consumes very little oil. When I drive canyon roads with a lot of hard acceleration and rev-matching downshifts I consume a great deal more. I've heard the theory that the main culprit of the oil consumption is that during high RPM WOT operation the variable valve timing has some sort of flaw. I've heard terms like valve overlap and such. I'm not an engineer so I don't know the specifics but it makes sense to me since the only changes to the Rev-Up from previous models that I'm aware of are the new plenum, addition of variable valve timing to the exhaust side of the heads and a reprogrammed ECU.
posted at 350motoring:
I own a 06 350z and my cousin owns a 06 G35, Both with the 6 speed man. 300hp. Her G35 started ticking like a lifter sound and she checked the oil and noticed it was WAY low, being between oil changes she took it to the dealer. They added oil and said nothing was wrong. 1600 mi. later, no oil on the dipstick, back the dealer. No oil in the car and burnt bottom end. The dealer pulls the motor and rebuilds the bottom end. 1500 miles later after break-in back to the dealer and when the oil is drained there is only one qt. in it. Car stays at dealer for weeks without an answer finally on the 30th day of non-op of vehicle the dealer calls and says, We can't find anything wrong so we filled it with oil and told her to come get now. By this time we contacted an attorney and found out that after 30 days of non operational status it qualifies for the Lemon Law.Upon contacting consumer affairs for Nissan USA she asked if this was a popular subject and was told that they were'nt supposed to tell info about others but that this was a BIG problem and has been diagnosed as a bad valve that is staying open upon deceleration letting oil pass. But what about the low oil indicator? she asked, it never came on? They told her that there is also a computer malfunction between the engine and warning sensor. Rebuilding the bottom end will not fix your oil leak. I have also noticed my 06 z using oil. Tell your dealer this and check ur dipstick regularly. We are waiting for them to buy back the G35 now. I will keep you posted on any other news.
#442
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by aren21
Thats EXACTLY what I told the service advisor guy, but he insists that nissan says 1quart/3,500 miles is normal. He said if it burns more than that (which it does), he will replace the engine. Heres the probelm: I dont want another oil burner. Once there is a fix, then I will push for a replacement.
#443
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by aren21
Your car has a relatively new build date. I wonder if that has anything to do with your consumption being very little. Since your milage is so low, it is normal to burn some oil because it is still breaking in. Give it some more time, and it might stop completely. My car consumes much more than that, and it was built 10/2005.
#444
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Hi fellas. So far I don't seem to be experiencing the issues with the revup that some members are experiencing... Knock on wood... I like the theory of a "bad batch of parts" myself to explain the inconstencies of why some revup's are having issues, while others do not. I really feel for the folks that are having issues. Hopefully the remedy will be as quick and painless as possible.
But I also wonder if I just got lucky (so far) or if my breakin procedure helped: I bought my Z with 8 miles on it. I did my first oil change at 100 miles. My next oil change was at 600 miles. My most recent oil change was this weekend at 1700 miles. Now I'm going to start doing it every 3000 miles.
My thought was that once you put dino oil in an engine, hydrocarbons continue to break down dino oil even if it's not being used. My car sat on the lot for almost 5 months before I bought it. So I changed that 5 month old oil at 100 miles. My next thought was that as the engine breaks in, you get metal crap floating in the oil. So I changed it again at 600, then again at 1700. I know the filter is supposed to catch most of the breakin crap, but I just felt better changing the oil anyway. $40 bucks for an oil change is cheap insurance in my book.
I was pretty easy on it during break in. Only going above 4k rpm a few times, but I do tend to down shift a lot, rev match, blip the down shifts, etc as a matter of my driving style. I drive it a little more aggressively now, but I really want to wait for the rings to finish seating before I start hammering it.
So far mine consumes @ 1/4 qt per 1000 miles. It's been consuming the oil pretty consistantly and I can almost predict where it's going to be before I check. I've got my fingers crossed it won't get any worse (and maybe even get better as the rings continue to seat). If not, then I can live with 1/4 per 1000.
Anyway, now that I'm aware of the issues with the revup's, I'm on my oil like a hawk (at least for awhile 'til I'm confident enough not the have to check it every few days) because I have a feeling that once the engine is operated with the oil below a certain threshold, it will never be the same again, and will probably continue to deteriorate once the initial (frictional, scoring, scortching, bearing, etc) damage is done. I also feel that once the engine is broken in and stable, it will probably be okay to drive like it was meant to be, as long as it isn't abused. And regular maintenance is next to godliness.
Just my .02 cents.
Build date on my current Z = 09/06.
But I also wonder if I just got lucky (so far) or if my breakin procedure helped: I bought my Z with 8 miles on it. I did my first oil change at 100 miles. My next oil change was at 600 miles. My most recent oil change was this weekend at 1700 miles. Now I'm going to start doing it every 3000 miles.
My thought was that once you put dino oil in an engine, hydrocarbons continue to break down dino oil even if it's not being used. My car sat on the lot for almost 5 months before I bought it. So I changed that 5 month old oil at 100 miles. My next thought was that as the engine breaks in, you get metal crap floating in the oil. So I changed it again at 600, then again at 1700. I know the filter is supposed to catch most of the breakin crap, but I just felt better changing the oil anyway. $40 bucks for an oil change is cheap insurance in my book.
I was pretty easy on it during break in. Only going above 4k rpm a few times, but I do tend to down shift a lot, rev match, blip the down shifts, etc as a matter of my driving style. I drive it a little more aggressively now, but I really want to wait for the rings to finish seating before I start hammering it.
So far mine consumes @ 1/4 qt per 1000 miles. It's been consuming the oil pretty consistantly and I can almost predict where it's going to be before I check. I've got my fingers crossed it won't get any worse (and maybe even get better as the rings continue to seat). If not, then I can live with 1/4 per 1000.
Anyway, now that I'm aware of the issues with the revup's, I'm on my oil like a hawk (at least for awhile 'til I'm confident enough not the have to check it every few days) because I have a feeling that once the engine is operated with the oil below a certain threshold, it will never be the same again, and will probably continue to deteriorate once the initial (frictional, scoring, scortching, bearing, etc) damage is done. I also feel that once the engine is broken in and stable, it will probably be okay to drive like it was meant to be, as long as it isn't abused. And regular maintenance is next to godliness.
Just my .02 cents.
Build date on my current Z = 09/06.
Last edited by gothchick; 03-19-2007 at 09:13 AM.
#446
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NE
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i had to recently put 2 1/4 qts into my 06 w/ 7200 miles. I have changed my oil at 1500, 3200, 5500...i just had it changed again at 7600 but between the 55 and 77 i had to add that much oil..not a good sign for me ...any suggestions if i should take it in to check on that...oh and its low now too after i had the oil changed 2 days ago.. and yes i did check the plug its tight and actually there
#448
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by bofa
^How hard do you drive it though?
a) start the documentation process to get it fixed and/or swapped out
b) lemon law
c) sell it or trade it for something else. Maybe a C06, M3, or Cayman-S.
Last edited by gothchick; 03-20-2007 at 06:28 AM.
#449
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NE
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well the oil is one large thing and a new thing that has arose is my clutch...
haven't hit 8000 miles yet but im affraid they will say its a wear item and deny my warranty claim...i guess i better just upgrade that and for the oil consumption ill take it in and start telling them about it...thanks
haven't hit 8000 miles yet but im affraid they will say its a wear item and deny my warranty claim...i guess i better just upgrade that and for the oil consumption ill take it in and start telling them about it...thanks
#450
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: durham, NC
Posts: 409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lemon Law
Lemon Laws vary from state to state. Some require action in the first 12 months or other restrictions. I suggest those with unresolved issues read yours carefully.
#451
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gothchick
I'm still kinda taking it easy. I'm currently @ 1700 miles on the motor. I pretty much stay below 5k rpm's on the tach, I plan to wait 'til it's at @ 5k - 8k miles on the engine before I get agressive with it. If it turns into an oil guzzler, I'll:
a) start the documentation process to get it fixed and/or swapped out
b) lemon law
c) sell it or trade it for something else. Maybe a C06, M3, or Cayman-S.
a) start the documentation process to get it fixed and/or swapped out
b) lemon law
c) sell it or trade it for something else. Maybe a C06, M3, or Cayman-S.
#452
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gothchick
I'm still kinda taking it easy. I'm currently @ 1700 miles on the motor. I pretty much stay below 5k rpm's on the tach, I plan to wait 'til it's at @ 5k - 8k miles on the engine before I get agressive with it. If it turns into an oil guzzler, I'll:
a) start the documentation process to get it fixed and/or swapped out
b) lemon law
c) sell it or trade it for something else. Maybe a C06, M3, or Cayman-S.
a) start the documentation process to get it fixed and/or swapped out
b) lemon law
c) sell it or trade it for something else. Maybe a C06, M3, or Cayman-S.
I wouldn't trade it in if it is having problems because you will definitely take a hit. I made that mistake on a Scion tC that I bought. I got one of the first ones in the states and it had chronic roof rattling problems (all glass roof). After going through Toyota/Scion for 5 months I got so sick of it I traded it in a took a $5K hit... then they recalled it 3 months later... doh.
#453
Registered User
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Nashville, Tn
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
lol trade the car in??? im stuck with my greddy tt kit
Think I could sell it myself for like $40,000
2006 Touring with 20k miles
-Greddy TT Kit
-Tein Basic Coilovers
-Volk le-37t 19x9.5 & 19x10.5
-Ings Body kit
I'll take a hit!
Think I could sell it myself for like $40,000
2006 Touring with 20k miles
-Greddy TT Kit
-Tein Basic Coilovers
-Volk le-37t 19x9.5 & 19x10.5
-Ings Body kit
I'll take a hit!
#454
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by bofa
That's probably why you haven't noticed the consumption yet, or at least not to the extent of some others.
My clutch also just started a problem. Before the engine is totally warmed up, something in the clutch assembly goes "pop" with a loud dull thud if I engage it too fast. You can totally hear it with the windows down. The clutch "engage/pop" goes away after the engine is fully warmed up though.
Oh yeah - 3 days after I bought this car, they replaced the MAF assembly, cause it failed and the car almost stranded me.
Last edited by gothchick; 03-21-2007 at 12:25 PM.
#457
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NE
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no it is goin into 1st no problem, hit the throttle and away i go...drop to 2nd and it will jump rev's depending on how much throttle but usually around 1k more and drop back down about 700 rpms and away i go...ive tried shifting at 2k, 2500, 3500 thinking maybe it will help bein higher or lower, no luck.
So basically what i think i have serached and found is either my clutch/pressure plate is glazed, or my clutch is slipping ...either way IT SUCKS.. i couldn't find anything to diy fix it so Nissan will have to look at it and hopefully take care of it..i know its a wear item but im under 8000 miles...i have in no way ran it that damn hard that it is my fault...we will see what the outcome is on that one..
So basically what i think i have serached and found is either my clutch/pressure plate is glazed, or my clutch is slipping ...either way IT SUCKS.. i couldn't find anything to diy fix it so Nissan will have to look at it and hopefully take care of it..i know its a wear item but im under 8000 miles...i have in no way ran it that damn hard that it is my fault...we will see what the outcome is on that one..
#458
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This has probably been discussed but I am going to ask anyway, for those who are seeing high consumption how hard are you revving the engine when it is still warming up? As I have posted I have what I would say is a normal engine with very little consumption and I do not rev over 3k until the temp needle is in the fully warm position. Just curious to know if this might have something to do with the problem.
#459
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Toad, I agree- I still love the car and hope to end up with a fixed 06 or an 07.
Brice, yes I typically let the engine warm up before leaving and when I don't have time before leaving, I keep the revs down (~3500) until it's warmed up.
Brice, yes I typically let the engine warm up before leaving and when I don't have time before leaving, I keep the revs down (~3500) until it's warmed up.
#460
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ugh I read the whole thread
I was unaware of this plague affecting so many people
I've had dealers change my oil at 3k and 6k. Haven't noticed any problems really. I'm at about 7500 now and 1/3 up the dipstick meter. Dunno what that means yet but guess it's time to start paying attention to my oil level...*sigh*...subscribing
Btw, my Z was ordered October, 2005 and I picked it up January 2006.
I was unaware of this plague affecting so many people
I've had dealers change my oil at 3k and 6k. Haven't noticed any problems really. I'm at about 7500 now and 1/3 up the dipstick meter. Dunno what that means yet but guess it's time to start paying attention to my oil level...*sigh*...subscribing
Btw, my Z was ordered October, 2005 and I picked it up January 2006.