Start-up Issue: Stalls out when warm and not given a little gas/throttle...
04-24-2007, 10:38 AM
#21
Originally Posted by live2themaxuk
Well ive done the pedal reset and so far, no joy.
There are 3 other things, Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning,Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) which i have all followed, but they are all really 'vaugue'.
With the ECU reset at least you know you have done it correctly as the milage resets, but with the others, there is no way to 'confirm' that the WHOLE procedure has taken effect.
1) on the 'Throttle Valve Closed position learning' prodecure it says 'Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound'. What the hell does that mean? What sound is it supposed to make when im not even touching the throttle?
2) In 'Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)' it says the following
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
well, when i 'start the engine' it doesnt bloody idle. . . .thats the problem, so how am i supposed to start it and 'let it idle' . i do, but it takes 3-4 turns of the key to get it into a state of idle without cutting out. . .
Hard to know if i am doing the procedures listed on here correctly
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Maybe someone could clarify
Jamie
There are 3 other things, Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning,Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) which i have all followed, but they are all really 'vaugue'.
With the ECU reset at least you know you have done it correctly as the milage resets, but with the others, there is no way to 'confirm' that the WHOLE procedure has taken effect.
1) on the 'Throttle Valve Closed position learning' prodecure it says 'Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound'. What the hell does that mean? What sound is it supposed to make when im not even touching the throttle?
2) In 'Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)' it says the following
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
well, when i 'start the engine' it doesnt bloody idle. . . .thats the problem, so how am i supposed to start it and 'let it idle' . i do, but it takes 3-4 turns of the key to get it into a state of idle without cutting out. . .
Hard to know if i am doing the procedures listed on here correctly
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm
Maybe someone could clarify
Jamie
If the engine keeps stalling, try turning on the A/C ... it bumps the idle a bit.
If none of this works and the engine keeps stalling, maybe try cleaning the MAF using the CRC spray MAF cleaner available at any car parts store (use while engine is off, duh)
04-24-2007, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by blasian
:shrugs:
Every time I've had this problem, reseting the ECU with the pedals worked like a charm for me.
Every time I've had this problem, reseting the ECU with the pedals worked like a charm for me.
Grrrrrr what am i doing wrong then. . . . . im sure its ecu/brain related, somethings gone out of whack after the disconnection for sure.
04-24-2007, 10:48 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by live2themaxuk
Grrrrrr what am i doing wrong then. . . . . im sure its ecu/brain related, somethings gone out of whack after the disconnection for sure.
04-24-2007, 11:28 AM
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oh yeah its all good. I even forced a check light by unplugging my MAF altogether, that really pissed it off. . . . .
plugged it back in, did the pedal reset and got rid of all the lights
Jamie
plugged it back in, did the pedal reset and got rid of all the lights
Jamie
04-27-2007, 01:50 AM
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Ive cleaned my MAF yesterday too. Im going to try cleaning the throttle body. . . . .
Putting the AC on does nothing for the initial start up idle anyway as the AC kicks in about a second or two after. Ive been reading the G35 forums too and someone withthe problem cleaned their throttle body and it fixed it.
Its really odd though, just generally isnt it. . . . . .
Jamie
Putting the AC on does nothing for the initial start up idle anyway as the AC kicks in about a second or two after. Ive been reading the G35 forums too and someone withthe problem cleaned their throttle body and it fixed it.
Its really odd though, just generally isnt it. . . . . .
Jamie
04-27-2007, 02:11 AM
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Had the exact same problem. Took it Crawfords and he hooked up to the computer, and found I was not throwing a code. So he bumped up my idle by just a little...runs perfect now. He said if the problem continues he was going to try a different throttle body on it, to see if thats the problem. Thanks again Doug for the no charge... drew
04-27-2007, 07:11 AM
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FIXED: - CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY
I took the intake pipe off the throttle body 'metal box that the large black intake pipe joins', disconnected the battery, sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body, gently moved the buttefly valve up to give it all a real good clean and get all the black carbon deposits off, especially along the edge of the butterfly valve plate and all inside the chamber. Put it all back together, connected battery. Went for a drive, warmed her up. Starts EVERYTIME without fail as it should, and idle, without AC on isnt lumpy anymore, smooth as anything!! My idle speed isnt nessacarily 'higher' it just seems to be managing those low RPMS better. Im assuming the carbon deposits messed with the tolerances of the butterfly valve and intake flow
Can a moderator sticky this as i think this is a common problem that doesnt seem to have been addressed properly before, and the fact that it starts after a battery disconnection seems to lead people up the wrong path. Im sure the fact that it starts doing it IS ecu related, but my guess is that the carbon deposits build up over time, as does the ECU's compensation for the build up, then, when its disconnected, if forgets the compensation and thus the idle is AWFUL and it stalls on a warm start. . . . thats just my perception as to why it starts after a battery disconnection.
Jamie
I took the intake pipe off the throttle body 'metal box that the large black intake pipe joins', disconnected the battery, sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body, gently moved the buttefly valve up to give it all a real good clean and get all the black carbon deposits off, especially along the edge of the butterfly valve plate and all inside the chamber. Put it all back together, connected battery. Went for a drive, warmed her up. Starts EVERYTIME without fail as it should, and idle, without AC on isnt lumpy anymore, smooth as anything!! My idle speed isnt nessacarily 'higher' it just seems to be managing those low RPMS better. Im assuming the carbon deposits messed with the tolerances of the butterfly valve and intake flow
Can a moderator sticky this as i think this is a common problem that doesnt seem to have been addressed properly before, and the fact that it starts after a battery disconnection seems to lead people up the wrong path. Im sure the fact that it starts doing it IS ecu related, but my guess is that the carbon deposits build up over time, as does the ECU's compensation for the build up, then, when its disconnected, if forgets the compensation and thus the idle is AWFUL and it stalls on a warm start. . . . thats just my perception as to why it starts after a battery disconnection.
Jamie
Last edited by live2themaxuk; 04-27-2007 at 07:15 AM.
04-27-2007, 09:12 AM
#31
Originally Posted by live2themaxuk
FIXED: - CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY
I took the intake pipe off the throttle body 'metal box that the large black intake pipe joins', disconnected the battery, sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body, gently moved the buttefly valve up to give it all a real good clean and get all the black carbon deposits off, especially along the edge of the butterfly valve plate and all inside the chamber. Put it all back together, connected battery. Went for a drive, warmed her up. Starts EVERYTIME without fail as it should, and idle, without AC on isnt lumpy anymore, smooth as anything!! My idle speed isnt nessacarily 'higher' it just seems to be managing those low RPMS better. Im assuming the carbon deposits messed with the tolerances of the butterfly valve and intake flow
Can a moderator sticky this as i think this is a common problem that doesnt seem to have been addressed properly before, and the fact that it starts after a battery disconnection seems to lead people up the wrong path. Im sure the fact that it starts doing it IS ecu related, but my guess is that the carbon deposits build up over time, as does the ECU's compensation for the build up, then, when its disconnected, if forgets the compensation and thus the idle is AWFUL and it stalls on a warm start. . . . thats just my perception as to why it starts after a battery disconnection.
Jamie
I took the intake pipe off the throttle body 'metal box that the large black intake pipe joins', disconnected the battery, sprayed carb cleaner into the throttle body, gently moved the buttefly valve up to give it all a real good clean and get all the black carbon deposits off, especially along the edge of the butterfly valve plate and all inside the chamber. Put it all back together, connected battery. Went for a drive, warmed her up. Starts EVERYTIME without fail as it should, and idle, without AC on isnt lumpy anymore, smooth as anything!! My idle speed isnt nessacarily 'higher' it just seems to be managing those low RPMS better. Im assuming the carbon deposits messed with the tolerances of the butterfly valve and intake flow
Can a moderator sticky this as i think this is a common problem that doesnt seem to have been addressed properly before, and the fact that it starts after a battery disconnection seems to lead people up the wrong path. Im sure the fact that it starts doing it IS ecu related, but my guess is that the carbon deposits build up over time, as does the ECU's compensation for the build up, then, when its disconnected, if forgets the compensation and thus the idle is AWFUL and it stalls on a warm start. . . . thats just my perception as to why it starts after a battery disconnection.
Jamie
Good info, if it turns out to help other people I'll make sure it's in a more highly visible place.
04-27-2007, 09:24 AM
#33
05-04-2007, 11:01 AM
#34
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Looks like I need some carb cleaner and a spare hour and hopefully it'll fix'er. I'm going to be trying this soon, so I'll keep y'all updated to if this is the 'end all, be all' to this problem.
At 93k miles, I don't doubt mine is gunked up...
At 93k miles, I don't doubt mine is gunked up...
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