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Z is overheating after coolant change

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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Default Z is overheating after coolant change

Hi guys,
I just finished draining and replacing my coolant and started the car up. I turned on the heater and let it run for about 10 minutes but no heat was blowing out. I then took it for a drive around the neighborhood and the car overheated within 3 minutes. It may be that I added too much coolant or I may have air in the system. Any suggestions?
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by t0mmyZ
Hi guys,
I just finished draining and replacing my coolant and started the car up. I turned on the heater and let it run for about 10 minutes but no heat was blowing out. I then took it for a drive around the neighborhood and the car overheated within 3 minutes. It may be that I added too much coolant or I may have air in the system. Any suggestions?

there are air bubbles in your system. Try to massage the coolant hoses or drive until it gets warm then turn off then take off the radiator cap off. Make sure you put a thick cloth on the cap while opening so when most of the air (little coolant as well) burst out, it will leak on the cloth, keep doing this step until car doesn't over heat anymore. I would do it three times. And your all done.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperBlack350
there are air bubbles in your system. Try to massage the coolant hoses or drive until it gets warm then turn off then take off the radiator cap off. Make sure you put a thick cloth on the cap while opening so when most of the air (little coolant as well) burst out, it will leak on the cloth, keep doing this step until car doesn't over heat anymore. I would do it three times. And your all done.
+1 air bubbles
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by t0mmyZ
Hi guys,
I just finished draining and replacing my coolant and started the car up. I turned on the heater and let it run for about 10 minutes but no heat was blowing out. I then took it for a drive around the neighborhood and the car overheated within 3 minutes. It may be that I added too much coolant or I may have air in the system. Any suggestions?
this is how I blew up my engine on the suv
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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Do not bleed the air at the radiator. There is a bleeder on the passenger side inline in the hose behind the engine near the fire wall. Run the car and then turn the screw a few turns eventually you will see it bubble until coolant comes out not just air. Close and let run for a couple more minutes and do this again. Repeat as needed. Call me at work if you need more help.

-Chris 480-317-0090
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperBlack350
there are air bubbles in your system. Try to massage the coolant hoses or drive until it gets warm then turn off then take off the radiator cap off. Make sure you put a thick cloth on the cap while opening so when most of the air (little coolant as well) burst out, it will leak on the cloth, keep doing this step until car doesn't over heat anymore. I would do it three times. And your all done.
I just finished trying this method. Coolant burped out all over my engine, I refilled the radiator and took it for a drive and it overheated instantly. I filled it using 50/50 coolant. My heater still does not blow hot air. I will try the other bleeding method tomorrow morning.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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LOL I tried to warn ya!
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by t0mmyZ
I just finished trying this method. Coolant burped out all over my engine, I refilled the radiator and took it for a drive and it overheated instantly. I filled it using 50/50 coolant. My heater still does not blow hot air. I will try the other bleeding method tomorrow morning.
open it very slowly...very slowly where air comes out only, then turn a bit more. It's underpressure so don't jsut open very fast.

just keep doing it, then heat will come out eventually and you know you will be good. Sorry for letting that step out.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 08:35 PM
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Or use the bleeder as it was designed by the engineers.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by InZomniac
Or use the bleeder as it was designed by the engineers.
Isn't it funny when someone asks your advice, but doesnt use it? +1 on using the bleeding cap in the line. As stated above that is what it is designed for
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by InZomniac
Or use the bleeder as it was designed by the engineers.
Ok, opened the hood this morning but I am not sure if this Green cap is the air bleeder.
Here is a pic of the green cap.
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I am pretty sure it is, but I want to double check.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 10:22 AM
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Wait. I just found this pic of the air bleeder. How come my Z does not have this? https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....4&d=1167669482 What is the green cap?
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:06 AM
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Hi, Please ingnore my previous two rookie posts. I just found the air bleeder. I will try this method right now.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 11:40 AM
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Problem solved using air bleeder. Thanks to everyone who gave advice.
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 02:55 PM
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You are more than welcome
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Old Jun 19, 2007 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by InZomniac
You are more than welcome
awesome
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Old Jun 20, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by InZomniac
You are more than welcome

where were you when i needed this advice after installing my MD spacer!!!!!!! lol j/k i took it to SGP and had them fix it...i was to irritated to even attempt it again (after 3 times of failure)
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 08:37 AM
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I just flushed mine and I was wondering if there is a problem with running straight distilled water
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Old Jul 4, 2007 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by t0mmyZ
Problem solved using air bleeder. Thanks to everyone who gave advice.
just for reference, the APS instructions used for their turbo setup installs are how the factory service manual says to bleed the coolant system:

NOTE IT IS CRITICAL THAT THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY! IT IS TIME CONSUMING, HOWEVER, ESSENTIAL!




3.1 Remove water return line (Item 166) from Tee piece (please refer to your bleeder plug in place of the Tee piece in these instructions ) (Item 167) in stock upper heater hose.



3.2 Fill radiator and coolant recovery reservoir (Item 126), with anti freeze coolant. It should take 10 quarts, including reservoir. It is important that the coolant is poured through the radiator filler neck at less than 1.5 quarts per minute, in order to allow air in the system to escape.



3.3 When the engine coolant overflows the connection at the Tee piece (Item 167), re-install water hose (Item 166) and tighten the connection.



3.4 Warm the engine to the normal operating temperature with the radiator cap installed.



3.5 Run the engine at 3,000 RPM for 10 seconds and then allow it to return to idle speed.



§ Repeat this action three times.



3.6 Stop engine and allow coolant temperature to drop below 120°F.



Use a remote electric fan to assist in this process.
If necessary, refill the radiator and reservoir up to the filler neck.


3.7 Repeat steps 3.3 to 3.6 at least two more times (it may take more) with the radiator cap installed, until the engine coolant level no longer drops.



3.8 Check the cooling system for leaks with the engine running. Remember, water now runs through both turbochargers.



3.9 Fully warm the engine and listen for the sound of coolant flow through the heater unit, inside the car; while running the engine from idle to 3,000 RPM, with the heater control set at several positions between cool and warm.



· Repeat this action three times



3.10 If any sound is heard, continue to bleed excess air from the cooling system, by repeating steps 3.3 to 3.6, until the coolant level no longer drops.
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Old Nov 2, 2007 | 09:51 PM
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can someone explain the complete process on bleeding the coolant and make it a little more understandable??
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