I installed my UR crank pulley last night. It took about a half hour on the lift and was very easy... One thing though, I would go with belts a 1/2" smaller than what they listed, the ones they said to use work but the tensioners are almost at the end of adjustment. I will call UR and let them know. It even said in the instructions if you find a better setup, then let them know. Well, I will let them know..... Feel free to ask any ?'s if you have...

 

Please post a review of the pulley when you test it. Did you get just the crank?

 

Yes I just got the crank pulley. It is alot smaller and about a tenth of the weight. I will go weigh the stock one in a lttle and let you know the difference... First off I did notice that the car seems to rev up quicker. However, it does say on the box that you should allow 5 days or so for the computer to learn of the new mod..(interesting) I only put about 20 miles on the car so far since I did it at 9pm last night... The install was super easy if you have a lift.
Heres a quick version of install....

remove black cover under car.(12 or so 10mm bolts)
loosen crank pulley nut.( I used a 3/4" socket on a breaker bar, but you need someone to sit in the car, put in 6th gear and stand on the brakes... even with that it still turned the motor but finally came off)
Loosen nuts on front of each tensioner(2 ) (with a 14mm socket)
Loosen tensioners screws(12mm socket)
Pull off belts and crank pulley( pulley was still hot after 20mins)
Install new pulley( put anti-seize in middle)
Install new belts.
Crank back up the tensioners
Reinstall black cover..
Go beat on car down highway and see if your butt dyno works!!!!!

 

OK, I just weighed the stock one....
Stock Crank almost 7 lbs
UR Crank almost 2lbs
5lbs lighter!!!!!
And the belts I used were
Goodyear Gatorback's
4060450(6pk1145)
4040355(4pk0900)
which both worked but could of been a 1/2" smaller.....

 

Yo J,

Go run the 1/4 mile and let us know of any improvement

Btw, I ran a 14.0 on stock setup over at Island Dragway on Wednesday, with a 2.15 launch... need to hit 13's =\

-slay

 

damn guys no fair!!!! -- i hit a 2.13 60' at island and i only ran a 14.31 ----- im pissed --- i still think thereas something wrong with me car-- might go this sunday for test and tune!

 

I'm probably going to raceway park on wed night. I am looking for a 13.7. The pulley does seem to be noticeable. It pulls harder around 3000 rpms. I am offering install services for anyone in NJ who has bolt on parts needing install.... Quality installs at good prices... I am also designing my own rear adjustable camber arms now. My friend is an engineer and currently working on the drawings....

 

Yeah UR sucks with belt sizes. They just take a stock pulley and make it smaller and lighter. I doubt they ever test them on the car since they have no clue what belt size fits. I went through the same thing with them on the 300zx pulleys. *I* had to tell Shawn at UR what the proper belt size was . Then to top it off the timing mark was several degrees off and stayed that way for years

Sorry for the rant but Shawn and UR suck at customer service

 

Is there anything to re-tensioning the belts? How do you measure? What are the torque settings for the bolts? I can take things off great, its the putting back that I'm worried about!

 

Just installed the crank pulley last night. I tried the belts that UR suggested as well as 1/2 inch shorter belts. I think the belt size that UR suggested is actually the correct belt. Both sizes will work. However, it is generally better to have a longer vs. shorter belt. A longer belt will run cooler and will put more belt surface on the pulley.

After a 1 hour test drive, I can feel the motor rev a little faster and easier. Vibration is actually a little less than stock.

 

Do something for me......

Turn the A/C on max, then accelerate up to about 60mph. Take your foot OFF the accelerator and let the car coast. Does it LURCH back and forth? Typically aftermarket crank pullies will cause this. Im just wondering if that is true for this setup.

 

I spoke w/ UR customer service today regarding the vibration issue. Shawn said that they have never had a problem with pulley kits for V6 or 4 cylinder applications. He said that it was primarily a domestic V8 problem and that the problem was very predictable. He said that the torsion at the crank in 4/6 cyl engines is not nearly as bad as in V8. I have no experience with this, anyone think this makes sense?

 

Wadd3456 -

No lurching as you described. Everything is very smooth during acceleration and deceleration.

 

Anyone else do the alternator? What a pain in the aZZ! How did you all adjust the belts? Did you retighten after a few hours? I guess I will try 1/4" of deflection to start out.

 

Just went for a test run, another satisfied customer.

 

ok, dumb questions:
how do you know how much tension to put back on the belts and did you use a specific torque to reapply the tensioner nuts and screws??

 

UR said to leave ~1/2 inch of deflection in the belts, my Nissan tech said to leave ~1/4 inch. I left ~1/4. There is a belt tension guage, but it'll tell you the same. You have to torque the idler pulley bolt to ~30 ft/lbs, but that is independent of the tension it places on the belt. I drove it for ~20 miles with no probs, still charges fine, temp is low middle as always. I will re-check the belts again in a while or if they make noise.

 

Just check how much tension is on your stock belts before you loosen them up....