The tilton is definately an extreme clutch and flywheel set up. I only recomend it for DD if you are patient and dont mind having to work a bit. The gains, sound, and rev speed are AMAZING! But you sacrafice daily drivability and if you never learn how to drive it, clutch life. After owning it, and craving it again, its one of those things that you hate 10% of the time and love 90% of the time. After all its all about what your going to use the car for.

 

I had the tilton that was extremely difficult and it can be tamed but patience is the key. It was by far the BEST mod I ever had though (and I had the APS TT installed after I got rid of the tilton) the car rev'd like no other.. the problem is launching and yes it is hard as hell to do.

The tilton can be bought from Titan Motorsports but its expensive.. expect to pay about $1800 for it.

 

You're correct if you assume you rev up the motor, dump the clutch, and you don't touch the throttle afterward. A heavier flywheel will make the car move farther than a light one due to stored energy. But that's not what we do in real life... I hope

The flywheel doesn't produce torque - it stores inertia by taking it from the engine (so you have less torque) - the instant you let the clutch out, the stored inertia helps propel the car forward, but it is still creating a parasitic loss on the engine's ability to transfer torque to the rear wheels (it has an extra load to spin up).

Adding driveline restriction or weight doesn't give you more torque or power - it makes it easier to drive and transfers 90% (just an example) of the torque more effectively on initial clutch engagement. You never have the opportunity to make that 10% back. A great driver can get 100% theoretically through throttle and clutch slipping action.

After you're already moving (road course or street) it's usually always better to have a really lightweight flywheel.

Driveability: worse. Power/torque delivery to rear wheels: much better.

 

BTW, great thread to include price vs. weight and material - I'm going to try the lightest solid flywheel I can find for $450 or less.

Traditionally, I haven't been concerned with drivability at all, so I think I'll be able to handle it. Plus, it will be a good way to "cheat" a little to help break 300rwhp N/A.

 

^^^ huh. if someone has mislead you into thinking that you will make more or less HP thats measurable on the dyno, you've been mistaken. once a clutch grabs, its direct drive. if your clutch is slipping now, then ya you'll make more power, but you wont be slipping anymore.

with those light clutches, theres no "slipping it". its on or off. sit on I40 for 5 mins in a traffic jam and i guarantee you'll want to throw you car in the ditch.

i'd suggest just goin with the JWT setup.

 

The ACT Prolite is CHROMOLY.

 

ahhh I need to drive a car with the tilton set up. I cant get over how fast it revs and how light it is compared to stock. JWT would be good too tho.

 

Should be the same as why crank horsepower is higher than wheel horsepower - driveline loss and rotating resistance/inertia. Less resistance should make more power, I figure. If there was a way to put a "resistance brake" on the wheels on the dyno, you'd make less measured horsepower. Remove the brake, and you'll make more. Whether it's measurable or not, I'll find out Either way, the Unorthodox underdrive pulley is advertised as being primarily effective due to its lighter weight and resultant lower inertia. Should be the same principle.

Same principle as hopping on the dyno with factory 17" rims vs. chrome 20"s: you'll make measurably less power with the 20"s on the dyno due to the inertia of a heavier wheel, with most of the weight focused around the outside.

I'm thinking about counteracting poor drivability of a really lightweight flywheel with 4.08 gears as well (for going from a stop). An automatic trans. Jeep Cherokee is my DD anyways.

After a second look, it seems as if the ACT flywheel (13.2#) has less rotating inertia than some of the other flywheels that visibly have more material around the edge or outside gear. Just a guess based on observation though.

 

Yep, it will show more rear wheel horsepower on the dyno, as well as reach and follow through the powerband quicker.

On a Z06 Vette: +9 rwhp and +8 ft-lbs. Gains *may* be similar on the G35 because a Z06 probably already has a somewhat light flywheel paired with a high-torque V8 and the 350z or G35 has a relatively heavy one from the factory with a low-torque V6.

http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/0407vet...ion/index.html

 

When I had the tilton it freed up about 15hp on the dyno..

 

Is it any harder changing out clutch/flywheel in the Z than other cars. Maybe my weekend project in the summer.

 

lighter is not always better...

 

x2

stock flywheels act as a damper as well, absorbing the engine's vibrations. . .

 

i heard the 2 piece fidanza flywheel is the same thing as the jwt but 1/2 lb lighter is that true?

 

JWT flywheel = Fidanza

 

cool im buying it this weekend

 

At 13.75 lbs our flywheel isn't the lighest on the market but does offer a good trade off between weight and price ($399).

 

where can i find a JUN fw for $400?

can anyone find me one for this price?


cheers

dp2

 

we can easily arrange one for you via air freight from Japan - ends up at around $600 shipped (takes about a week to arrive to you if JUN has)

 

thnks but thats out of my budget...