3.692, was a typo.

 

Uhhh... Consult II only allowed up to 2 degrees adjustment on my VQDE... And Consult II only does a global adjustment...

 

Ask yourself what the purpose of ignition advance is and reseach why one wants the peak BMEP to occur at 16 deg ATDC at every rpm.
Each individaul cylinder will vary in its need for a specific number of advance..........why individual exhaust temps vary.

 

Q45,

Would you happen to know why bank to bank A/F variations are so common on this engine?

 

An observation on this... I have Tuner (Reg) on bank 2, and an AEM AFR gauge on bank 1.

I notice that when the ECU is driving the coils/ injectors, the banks AFRs do fluctuate slightly between the banks. Bank 1 will run slightly leaner/richer, then bank 2 will go slightly leaner/richer, then back to bank 1, etc. Sometimes up to a full AFR point.

When UTEC takes over the AFRs are much more in synch between the banks.

Edit: I did a 'Free Air Calibration' on the Tuner Bosch 02 sensor. The AEM is pre-calibrated from Bosch.

 

I know, I know!! - Is it because that's where the most effecient/ complete propogation of burn occurs?

 

So you're saying I'm delusional? I'm 22, it's too early for me to go senile and start imagining things.

 

one word..........stillen

 

not delusional, just mistaken

you can't specify where in the rpm range the timing change takes place with a Consult that I've ever seen...it's a global change that affects every rpm point

you might have set it to 5 degrees, but I'd bet that's not what the ecu ended up doing. My guess is it reverted back to a 3 degree total change

 

You can set it to +5 degrees but that only means the maximum potential limit has increased by 5 degrees.

If your ECU doesn't feel like advancing timing beyond what it is already at, it won't. You can advance potential timing +15 deg and still see nothing.

You will need to fill your tank with race gas for it to really take advantage of the +5 deg advance. And only if the knock sensors are quiet and everything else is in perfect order will you see the timing actually advance.

 

Guys, I never said I had it advanced +5. It clearly states in my sig that I'm at 17-degrees now. I was just saying that the ECU allows for a +5 change via Consult II. I know how Advance Timing works, if you guys notice I already informed another member that advancing makes the car prone to pinging under certain conditions, and anything higher than stock prevents the use of octane lower than premium, even if its for emergency reasons.

Z1: I was asking if I was delusional regarding Gothchick's statement that Consult doesn't allow an advance past 2 degrees. And I also know that it affects every part of the powerband - I said as much in my first post (by describing better feel across three different ranges) and then again a few posts later.

 

the ecu does not allow for a +/- 5 degrees change via a Consult, instead, the ecu has a margin or error of +/- 5 degrees to be considered in spec. For example, at +17, you advanced it 2 degrees form what every Z I've ever seen has as its base figure (15 BTDC), which is inline with what I'd expect a Consult to be able to do. Will it net a change? In throttle response yes...hardly earth shattering by any means, but the car will respond a bit better in the low revs. Up top it wont net any difference.

From Section EC44 of the factory service manual:

A/T: 15 ± 5° BTDC (in "P" or "N" position)
M/T: 15 ± 5° BTDC (in "N" position)

Tony - having played with timing alot on my car, I can assure you race gas and 5 degrees in the upper rpm ranges = 0 net change, even on my setup. I gained I think 2 whp the last time I dynoed (yay, $70 worth of race gas!), and ended up setting it right back to where we had it. But, having spoken to my engine guru after the session, we know what we need to do next time to really see some changes as a result of timing and race gas (ie big timing changes)

The car already calls for premium fuel with stock base timing, so thats really a non issue as far as I'm concerned

 

Thanks for clearing that up... I was going to say... I've never seen +5 degrees timing using ANY tool without serious tuning


you can do +1 or 2 degrees or -1 or 2 degrees from stock ONLY!!

 

Relative to 91 OCTANE, I dynod a 4:1 mix of California 91 octane & 111 octane race gas and it made a very significant improvement on my Z. It easily made 8+TQ and 10+HP. A very good gain across the whole curve so it substantially improved the area under the curve.

With the race gas, I also experimented with small timing changes of +2 through -2 deg timing. Changing the timing also made a clear difference on the dyno.

Only when higher octane was used was I able to get a usefull response out of the Cipher timing changes.

...Without the race gas and on just regular 91 octane, Cipher timing changes did absolutely nothing on the dyno.

 

yeah on 91 I can't say, as we get 93 out here

 

I wish we had that problem here in Ca.

 

Could I use octane booster to achieve the same effect since I don't have race gas anywhere near me?

 

Yes, but be careful about what octane booster you use.

Most of the OTC stuff at the autopart stores don't work or only have limited effectiveness.

And some of them can foul up your spark plugs.

 

Im confused so does advancing your timing generate more hp or torque on race gas only or will it work with 93 octane also. Is this advance timing mod worth doing for some low end grunt. One more question changing the timing does not take away any hp up top does it, thanks.

 

with the autoenginuity i advanced mine to 17 from 15. i did not attempt to advance past that but i did retard it down to 8btdc. there were several people that believed that the advance only worked in low rpms but when i retarded down to 8, the loss could be felt in every rpm. i quickly put it back to 17 as the car felt like junk. this is on a g35 but the specs and adjustibility should be the exact same. at idle mine does adjust back and forth between 17-18btdc.