Oil filter question...yes I'm serious.
11-04-2008, 09:33 PM
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Oil filter question...yes I'm serious.
Okay, I'm not new to tuning, but new to the 350Z. I have a 03 touring model 6MT. I was told by someone I know that works in the service department of an Infinity dealership that Nissan's check valve in the oil filter is actually backwards from most. And that therefore, running any other filter (i.e. Mobil 1 or K&N) would eventually lead to a smoking car. Is there any real truth to this that any knows of? I've searched with no results!
11-05-2008, 08:52 AM
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11-09-2008, 04:50 AM
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UPDATE! UPDATE! The latest tests on oil filters showed that PUREONE by the makers of Purolator, is as good as the K&N & the MOBIL 1 oil filters--at a fraction of the price! The ONLY drawback's that it's guaranteed for only up to 7,5OOk, max'.
MOBIL 1 has one that can be used for 15,OOOk. I only put an average of 6,OOO to 7,5OOk per year on my beaZt, so I'm definitely shifting to PUREONE!
____________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________
'O4 Touring Coupe. Flawless AT. NO oil-consumption issues. NO feathering. NO PROBLEMO.
MOBIL 1 has one that can be used for 15,OOOk. I only put an average of 6,OOO to 7,5OOk per year on my beaZt, so I'm definitely shifting to PUREONE!
____________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________
'O4 Touring Coupe. Flawless AT. NO oil-consumption issues. NO feathering. NO PROBLEMO.
Last edited by j.arnaldo; 11-09-2008 at 05:01 AM.
11-09-2008, 05:57 AM
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UPDATE! UPDATE! The latest tests on oil filters showed that PUREONE by the makers of Purolator, is as good as the K&N & the MOBIL 1 oil filters--at a fraction of the price! The ONLY drawback's that it's guaranteed for only up to 7,5OOk, max'.
MOBIL 1 has one that can be used for 15,OOOk. I only put an average of 6,OOO to 7,5OOk per year on my beaZt, so I'm definitely shifting to PUREONE!
____________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________
'O4 Touring Coupe. Flawless AT. NO oil-consumption issues. NO feathering. NO PROBLEMO.
MOBIL 1 has one that can be used for 15,OOOk. I only put an average of 6,OOO to 7,5OOk per year on my beaZt, so I'm definitely shifting to PUREONE!
____________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________
'O4 Touring Coupe. Flawless AT. NO oil-consumption issues. NO feathering. NO PROBLEMO.
wow, thanks for the
bet that test was done by pureone
11-09-2008, 09:36 AM
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See my earlier Spam-Free post 
, I've found the Purolator PureOne to be a good "top 3 filters" choice for our motors.
PureOne is rated very highly for construction quality, filtration, good flow, and low cost. I've looked at many different tests and thrown out any of them that even smell like they were vendor-sponsored or performed. Don't believe SAE tests, either, because far too often you cannot tell the results were performed by the manufacturer.
Bottom line is cost, both use good media, both well above conventional paper-based filters. Go read the thread on VQ Engine Oil Analysis, Will's put up more info than you can absorb in a day. Bottom line is if you don't really know "best oil, best filter" w/o having Used Oil Analysis (UOA).
One change I made after reading that thread was to move to M1 0W-40W oil vs. 10W-30W M1, the 40W viscosity is more like a typical 30W warm, and it's hard to beat 0W for cold climate use cold starts.
M1-301
Considering the size of the VQ's filter, I'd place a premium on filtration and flow, and overall quality of construction. Champion and Wix make a lot of the filters branded under other names, Champion being generally the better of the two. Wix makes a lot filters like the NAPA Gold, not a bad filter but inferior filtration to the M1 or PureOne. K&N generally a good filter, too, but not better, and costs more.
Just don't use these - , besides their crappy performance, they can and do fail:
FRAM Extra Guard - cardboard end caps, crappy construction, lousy media, bypass valve leaks, filter has tiny flow holes in a piece of stamped metal, and the filter has a well-deserved rep for failing completely and even blocking oil flow, which can ruin the motor.
FRAM Double Guard - Teflon impregnated media, don't want that crap in your motor unless you're a Slick 50 believer. Construction issues similar to above.
Penzoil or Quaker State filters - both now FRAM built, see above.
It's amazing to see FRAM's marketing fills the aisles of big-box store auto depts with such total crap. Also, don't forget that AIR filters will also have a significant bearing on what gets into your oil, read Will's thread again. If you really care about the subject, UOA is pretty easy and cheap, and w/o one, you're just guessing which is the "best oil" or "best filter", etc. Great resource here: Bob is the Oil Guy
However there are some known issues with the filters mentioned above to avoid, never put one on your engine. Sadly, add the Nissan OEM 65F00, this filter is nothing more than a slightly improved FRAM copy, so much for "you can't go wrong with OEM". I took mine off after 500 miles and replaced it as part of an early oil change out.
Read this post, or go buy one and cut it open yourself - when you see the cardboard end caps, paper filter, same flimsy can, painted white with the Nissan logo, well, you're paying $10 for a $2.50 FRAM filter, basically.
I'm sure to get flamed by FRAM lovers, or by "Nissan OEM is best" - if you really believe either one of those are true, read up on pros and cons of oil filter construction, go buy one of each, cut it open with a pipe cutter, then say again that they're "just fine". You don't have to be an engineer to recognize cheap-*** construction. At best, you're paying 4X for the most popular OEM filter, at worst, it's not working all that well and has the same potential failure issues as FRAM Extra Guard filters.
, I've found the Purolator PureOne to be a good "top 3 filters" choice for our motors.PureOne is rated very highly for construction quality, filtration, good flow, and low cost. I've looked at many different tests and thrown out any of them that even smell like they were vendor-sponsored or performed. Don't believe SAE tests, either, because far too often you cannot tell the results were performed by the manufacturer.
Bottom line is cost, both use good media, both well above conventional paper-based filters. Go read the thread on VQ Engine Oil Analysis, Will's put up more info than you can absorb in a day. Bottom line is if you don't really know "best oil, best filter" w/o having Used Oil Analysis (UOA).
One change I made after reading that thread was to move to M1 0W-40W oil vs. 10W-30W M1, the 40W viscosity is more like a typical 30W warm, and it's hard to beat 0W for cold climate use cold starts.
M1-301
"Like the Champ filter, this filter is made by Champion Labs. However, it uses a unique end plate and a thicker can that make it the strongest filter available for wide distribution retail sale. It also uses a synthetic media, which inproves filtration and flow.
It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter. I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split."
The one plus I'd give the Mobil One filter is the casing is still by far one of the best, almost twice as thick as the PureOne's casing. Since I've never even considered letting my oil changes go 15k miles or even much more than 5-6k miles, I could care less which filter "lasts" longer, a claim I find pretty dubious at best anyway. Better filtration means the media will pack up over time, I wouldn't think about 10-15k mile oil change intervals with a VQ.It uses a synthetic fiber element that can filter out very small particles and is very strong. It is rated just under the Purolator Pure One as far as filtering capability, but is still very much above conventional paper filters. It also has a very strong construction to withstand high pressure spikes during start-up. However, as with all Mobil 1 products, expect to pay 2 - 3 times as much for this filter. I have received many reports of these filters failing at high pressures. It seems that the seam where the backplate crimps to the case can split."
Considering the size of the VQ's filter, I'd place a premium on filtration and flow, and overall quality of construction. Champion and Wix make a lot of the filters branded under other names, Champion being generally the better of the two. Wix makes a lot filters like the NAPA Gold, not a bad filter but inferior filtration to the M1 or PureOne. K&N generally a good filter, too, but not better, and costs more.
Just don't use these - , besides their crappy performance, they can and do fail:
FRAM Extra Guard - cardboard end caps, crappy construction, lousy media, bypass valve leaks, filter has tiny flow holes in a piece of stamped metal, and the filter has a well-deserved rep for failing completely and even blocking oil flow, which can ruin the motor.
FRAM Double Guard - Teflon impregnated media, don't want that crap in your motor unless you're a Slick 50 believer. Construction issues similar to above.
Penzoil or Quaker State filters - both now FRAM built, see above.
It's amazing to see FRAM's marketing fills the aisles of big-box store auto depts with such total crap. Also, don't forget that AIR filters will also have a significant bearing on what gets into your oil, read Will's thread again. If you really care about the subject, UOA is pretty easy and cheap, and w/o one, you're just guessing which is the "best oil" or "best filter", etc. Great resource here: Bob is the Oil Guy
However there are some known issues with the filters mentioned above to avoid, never put one on your engine. Sadly, add the Nissan OEM 65F00, this filter is nothing more than a slightly improved FRAM copy, so much for "you can't go wrong with OEM". I took mine off after 500 miles and replaced it as part of an early oil change out.
Read this post, or go buy one and cut it open yourself - when you see the cardboard end caps, paper filter, same flimsy can, painted white with the Nissan logo, well, you're paying $10 for a $2.50 FRAM filter, basically.
I'm sure to get flamed by FRAM lovers, or by "Nissan OEM is best" - if you really believe either one of those are true, read up on pros and cons of oil filter construction, go buy one of each, cut it open with a pipe cutter, then say again that they're "just fine". You don't have to be an engineer to recognize cheap-*** construction. At best, you're paying 4X for the most popular OEM filter, at worst, it's not working all that well and has the same potential failure issues as FRAM Extra Guard filters.
11-09-2008, 09:39 AM
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Okay, I'm not new to tuning, but new to the 350Z. I have a 03 touring model 6MT. I was told by someone I know that works in the service department of an Infinity dealership that Nissan's check valve in the oil filter is actually backwards from most. And that therefore, running any other filter (i.e. Mobil 1 or K&N) would eventually lead to a smoking car. Is there any real truth to this that any knows of? I've searched with no results!
11-11-2008, 02:18 PM
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Yep, I read an article a few months back--I just can't remember the site name! In it they
reported that MOBIL 1 & K&N were top rated oil filters with a SYNTHETIC-ELEMENT. The
only non-synthetic element filter that was right up there with 'em was the Pureone. Its only drawback, they
reported, is that it can only go 7,5OOk, before replacement, vs. the MOBIL1/K&N ones, which can go up to 15,OOOk.
When I remember the site's name, I'll let you know, Reso'!
reported that MOBIL 1 & K&N were top rated oil filters with a SYNTHETIC-ELEMENT. The
only non-synthetic element filter that was right up there with 'em was the Pureone. Its only drawback, they
reported, is that it can only go 7,5OOk, before replacement, vs. the MOBIL1/K&N ones, which can go up to 15,OOOk.
When I remember the site's name, I'll let you know, Reso'!
Last edited by j.arnaldo; 11-11-2008 at 02:22 PM.
11-11-2008, 04:59 PM
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Stick with genuine NISSAN. The engineering specs are tailored for your NISSAN. There is a history of exceptional results - as you might expect. The warranty is good coast-to-coast at any franchised NISSAN dealer. And the price is right.
Why bother shopping for anything else?
Why bother shopping for anything else?
11-12-2008, 09:08 PM
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Stick with genuine NISSAN. The engineering specs are tailored for your NISSAN. There is a history of exceptional results - as you might expect. The warranty is good coast-to-coast at any franchised NISSAN dealer. And the price is right.
Why bother shopping for anything else?
Why bother shopping for anything else?