True, I use it. I also was advise by some Z owners to use it since we have very hot weather here . You think the oil has any issue with my prob ?

 

^
dude 60 weight oil is pretty viscous.. i would go to a 40 weight if i were you..

and where are you located that it's 120+ degrees out? i'm in houston and we have temperature in the mid 100s and my car never feels like it's losing power..

 

Haha, I have never even seen such a weight oil in the states. I would start by ad least putting in the factory viscous oil which is 5-30. You just doubled the viscosity, that is very thick, this might be why it feels sluggish

 

I was searching the forum & came across this post,

Could it be something like that ?

 

I tried my lights today, They are all working O.K. It's not even going over 2500 rpm today as if the transmission is locked in safe mode

Any way i will take it to the dealer on Saturday.

Thanks,

 

Here's some updates if anybody is interested,

I got a call this morning from the dealer. The report says the following:

"NEED TO REPLACE ETC ASSY AN IF NECC, ECM & RE-CHECK", The part name in the report is kinda strange, "CHAMBR THROTTLE" . which as i know is throttle body .

But they quoted me around 1800$ !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, So i took the car without a fix.

Do you people think that it actually sounds to be the throttle body?, Is it OK to buy & replace it by my own ?

 

Any ideas ???

 

I would buy that part and try it, if a new throttle body doesn't fix it it says to replace your ECM.

You'll most likely have to get a ecm reprogramming done at the dealer
but the throttle body you can do yourself unplug battery, install new/used throttle body and then replug the battery.

Throttle body doesn't fix it... take it to the dealer
get ecm

Maybe buy a isothermal motordyne spacer to help with heat?

is your check engine light on?
Malfunctioning ecm would most likely cause a check engine light

 

Try the throttle body reset, search it and perform it.

 

My check engine light is not on, There's no error codes stored even & that made me think that the

ECU is faulty. But, It seems that the ecu is still taking control of the car, For example i removed

my maf to see if the CEL will come on or no, & it did. the VDC is still working cause some times i

will get the slip light blinking when i push the car hard from a stop ( i have 19 inches tires ) .

the cruise control is also working . But i'm pretty sure that there's something wrong within my car.

I will buy & install the throttle body by my own, It's easy i know . courtesyparts.com is no more

selling the TB so i will consider buying it from ebay if i couldn't find one in the junkyard .

I'm not really so enthusiastic to change the TB cause i think that i have another problem, Can anyone explain to me why i can go full throttle only once after i hit the brake & totally stop the car ( even if i didn't turn off the car ) ???? I mean, I will push the car from a complete stop & i will keep accelerating till i go WOT, But once i release the gas pedal ( say i'm cruising at 60 MPH ) i will never be able to get the car back to full throttle ( the rpm will seem like it's stuck & Hardly moving between 2500 & 3000 rpm ) .

Do you mean the idle relearn procedure ?, The car idles perfect by the way, But anyway i will consider doing both idle relearn & accelerator pedal position relearning .

 

Wow, from what you are saying above, try disco the brake light switch and drive your car for a few minutes. It almost sounds like you may have a faulty switch (or wiring) the car has a throttle cut if the brakes are applied.

The switch is easily disco'd from right above the pedal.

 

If you have aftermarket tails or bulbs remove them completely and do a quick test run. Aftermarket LED tails have been known to do exactly this. They bleed voltage into the ECU making it think your constantly on your brakes so it cuts throttle.

 

I tried to test this & came across this in the service manual,



- I disconnected switch no 3, But i was not even able to shift ( as if the brake pedal is totally released ). So i couldn't test with switch 3 off.

- I disconnected switch no 8, But the brake lights & the high-mounted stop light was still coming on once the brake pedal is pressed !!!

Which one exactly is controlling the tail lights?


I bought the car about a year ago & the previous owner didn't mention anything about swapping the tail lights, But they look like the OEM ones. they are not the LED ones, but who knows. I saw some threads before about problems with aftermarket tail lights & i think that disconnecting the proper brake light switch will take the tail lights out & i will be able to judge .

I'm just waiting for any input regarding the location of the brake light switch.

Thanks,

 

how is there a check engine light with no stored codes???

vdc working probably on a different computer then your ecm
so i can imagine that working fine

the taillight bulb issue seems worthy of researching

but as a dealer they should be pretty confident with having you replace your throttle body and or ecm to clear the check engine light

they diagnosed that using a code, one they got from your check engine light

if they told you there were no stored codes in the computer that may be them not wanting to tell you the code so you will perform your work with them
instead of doing it yourself.

is your check engine light still on?
go to pep boys or a freinds house that has a code reader, find the code
and look at *********.com to see if theres any tsb's "service bulltins".

if your code points anywhere towards your throttle body - then replace it.
that will most likely be your problem, especially if you paid a nissan tech to diagnose your problem and this is what he would have trusted himself in replacing to fix your car.

trust the diag if it was a real nissan check engine light diagnostic

 

No CEL, No Codes. Thats we are starting to believe its the throttle cut (from the brake)

Other parts would actually throw a code. Where the pedel actuated throttle cut willnot throw a code, the throttle just believes your applying the brake at all times.

 

My check engine light never came on, And this is why i'm lost in space . From my experience with any dealership ( not only NISSAN ), I can tell that you should listen to the voices in your head especially when the problem is not so clear, I mean like the case of no error codes. And in my case i have a feeling that it's not the TB .

I'm now trying to look at the taillight bulb issue ( hope it's the prob ).

Thanks,

 

Disco your taillights and try, also disco each of the switches on the pedal and try, then also try with each of the switches disco's. Just do every combo to possibly isolate where the problem is.

 

unfortunately the brake light issue didn't work . I totally removed the back light fuse from the fuse box under the kick panel but nothing changed .

Anyway, I will order a new TB from E-bay & i will change it hopefully i can get my car back to work .

Thanks,

 

So i replaced my throttle body today with no luck. I noticed that the throttle valve is not fully opening when the ignition switch goes to OFF position.

Here is a video Showing the movement of the throttle valve when the ignition switch goes to OFF position. You can see that it is not fully opening, Does it seem O.K ?


Share your thoughts...

 

Hi Guys,

Over the past few days i noticed that i have some electric issues,

- Power window switches lights are always ON even with the low beam turned off & instrument lights OFF.

- Ashtray bulb is blown.

- A/T position indicator is showing random strange characters ( when the car is OFF ).



- My heated seats stopped working, The switch will illuminate but the seats are not heating ( both sides ).

- I also notice that the AC will continue to blow a little amount of cold air for some time after switching the AC off .

can anyone point me for a reason what can cause my car to act like this.

Thanks,