pulling my hair out over this cutch
OK so iv posted about this same issue a couple times with no solution in sight thus far. the problem is after installing an act clutch/fly wheel i lost a lot of pressure out of the hydraulic system.
after adjusting the clutch pedal we were still left with a drop in the first 4 inches were there is no pressure in the pedal whatsoever yet it still moves the slave cylinder. the clutch engagement is extremely short basically its an on off switch. we have bleed the system more times than i can count with the same result.
second time around we installed a new slave cylinder. pulled the master cylinder and did a bench test next to a new one and they both preformed the same so we reinstalled the old master. bleed the system again and again adjusted the clutch pedal more and we still had the same result.
last night i did the wilwood resivor swap and used the motive power bleeder. this is where we had some interesting results.
when we used the power bleeder the way it was designed to it was incredible slow. as well there were bubbles returning up the bleeder line (wasn't sure if that was normal) we also tried bleeding it with the clutch pedal while the bleeder was still in use and pressurized. which lead to the result that the clutch pedal was almost back to stock. it would return all the way and the drop was reduced to about 1 inch drop but you could feel that there was slight pressure behind the pedal no where it dropped.
when we disengaged the pressure bleed from the system it was right back to the 4 inches of drop but the clutch pedal felt stiffer over all and the engagement point on the clutch moved further up the pedal without any pedal adjustment.
so right now any more ideas theory's before i take this thing into the dealer and hand it over to them as $$$$.
this whole thing has been driving me crazy
after adjusting the clutch pedal we were still left with a drop in the first 4 inches were there is no pressure in the pedal whatsoever yet it still moves the slave cylinder. the clutch engagement is extremely short basically its an on off switch. we have bleed the system more times than i can count with the same result.
second time around we installed a new slave cylinder. pulled the master cylinder and did a bench test next to a new one and they both preformed the same so we reinstalled the old master. bleed the system again and again adjusted the clutch pedal more and we still had the same result.
last night i did the wilwood resivor swap and used the motive power bleeder. this is where we had some interesting results.
when we used the power bleeder the way it was designed to it was incredible slow. as well there were bubbles returning up the bleeder line (wasn't sure if that was normal) we also tried bleeding it with the clutch pedal while the bleeder was still in use and pressurized. which lead to the result that the clutch pedal was almost back to stock. it would return all the way and the drop was reduced to about 1 inch drop but you could feel that there was slight pressure behind the pedal no where it dropped.
when we disengaged the pressure bleed from the system it was right back to the 4 inches of drop but the clutch pedal felt stiffer over all and the engagement point on the clutch moved further up the pedal without any pedal adjustment.
so right now any more ideas theory's before i take this thing into the dealer and hand it over to them as $$$$.
this whole thing has been driving me crazy
Are you dealing with a CSC or a slave mounted outside the clutch housing?
The service manual says that using of a pressure bleeder will not get the air out of the CSC-type system. From the pictures I've seen, it looks like the system has a built-in high point that traps air. (That's just what you'd expect, since they obviously put the B-team in charge of designing the clutch system, while the A-team was working on the super-nice and bulletproof automatic.)
The trick appears to be to allow enough time for air to migrate to the high point, then depress the pedal at just the right speed to move an air bubble down the tube to the bleeder fitting.
The service manual says that using of a pressure bleeder will not get the air out of the CSC-type system. From the pictures I've seen, it looks like the system has a built-in high point that traps air. (That's just what you'd expect, since they obviously put the B-team in charge of designing the clutch system, while the A-team was working on the super-nice and bulletproof automatic.)
The trick appears to be to allow enough time for air to migrate to the high point, then depress the pedal at just the right speed to move an air bubble down the tube to the bleeder fitting.
Last edited by winchman; Feb 13, 2011 at 10:12 PM.
Try pushing fluid thru the bleeder valve. I have did this with several clutch installs. I used a turkey injector, not a baster and pushed fluid thru the bleeder valve then closed it and would then bleed the system like normal. Do this a few times where it actually pushes fluid thru the top of the cluch reservoir. Has always worked for me. So give a try. Also, the clutch pedal will also adjust some once the car has been driven for a while. I to ran into the problem you are speaking of with almost every clutch i have installed. But unless changing out the slave or putting a stainless line on I never have reason to bleed. Or also in one instance I made a longer rod that went from the inside of the slave to the clutch fork. Few things here you can try.
Last edited by kramykram; Feb 14, 2011 at 04:59 AM.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0
the absolute best way iv ever used....i was having sort of the same problem as you for the first 2 years i had my clutch in...i did this and everything was fixed
the absolute best way iv ever used....i was having sort of the same problem as you for the first 2 years i had my clutch in...i did this and everything was fixed
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