Exemption

iTrader: (1)

Alright guys i posted a thread about a week back asking advice on what to do/replace while i do a vq35de rebuilt motorswap.

i had my other short block rebuilt (bored, honed, yadda yadda)

Over the weekend my brother in law and i started and in about 5 hours had the rod knocked engine pulled out.



During the process we had found several dumb issues that were made
by the last hell bound owner. (when i bought this car 8 months ago it only had 36000 miles and its an 04...driven to hell??)

1st) the coil hovering over cylinder 4 was never truly screwed all the way down.
2nd)there were several bolts and nuts missing in miscellaneous spots (nothing to serious).
3rd) as we got down to the last few bolts we started to see where the last owner was reallllyyyyyy stupid. The alternator wiring was redone with an amateur soldering job. which left me at surprise that the alternator was even working.
4th) i knew i had a couple of exhaust leaks from the sounds which i decided to wait to get fixed, but now i found the reason; i was missing a bolt from the headers to the high flow cats and another bolt from the high flow cat to the borla exhaust pipes.



5th) on the driver side engine out, the nut thats suppose to be pretty tight...was hanging onto dear life with only a few threads left before it seen some pavement.

6th) the stillen engine dampener was never put on correctly and looks taken apart??? hmmm it was basically just put on there for looks.

That was just in one day of taking the engine out. I now beleive i should search around on the tein suspension JUST in case.

Even before all this i had to have the clutch and fly wheel replaced because a few fly wheel bolts broke off inside the housing because they werent torqued down correctly result in 2k worth of damage. UGHHH :catfight:

so now i have both engines together and about to start moving parts. All my gaskets are in with the new parts i ordered.

hopefully i will have no other issues from here on out! wish me luck guys and if anyone has any suggestions about anything i should do now dont be scared to speak up. About to switch out the camshafts right now. expectant whp will hopefully be 320-330 we shall see!

Complete engine mod list and reinstall:

Borla td exhaust
HFC's
megan racing headers
arp head bolts
Bc0221 264/10.8 cams
lightweight unorthodox racing lightweight pulley set
kinetix upper plenum (hoping to switch this to an md spacer setup later)
jwt pop charger
stillen engine dampener

ImWeeZzel

iTrader: (27)

Did you buy this car modified? I would recommend a new water pump, oil pump, better head gaskets

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Moved to NA builds. No way on 320-330whp.

0jiggy0

iTrader: (13)

Agreed.

glenns280

glwt

Exemption

iTrader: (1)

i guess i should say more or so a goal than expecting

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

If you hit 300whp (SAE dynojet) I will be a bit surprised.

Exemption

iTrader: (1)

yes, the water pump and oil pump look pretty new compared to the rest of the engine. (very clean) head gaskets i will look into. Thank you

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

CONGRATS ON TACKLING AN ENGINE SWAP.. 9 POSTS, FAR BETTER THAN A THREAD ABOUT PAINTING YOUR DOOR HANDLES GREEN,etc.

But wtf is project Lillith?
all im picturing is this broad:

SirSpeedyZ

iTrader: (10)

OP what kind of tune/management are you going with?

I assume you are, even though you didn't list it

Vader007

iTrader: (23)

" and if anyone has any suggestions about anything i should do now dont be scared to speak up."

Well sinse you asked, the only parts I keep off that list is the cams, get provenl headers, Crawford or Tomei, scrap the plenum and go with the MD spacer now, stick with the factory air box and a good dry filter like Amsoil EA, have some mild headwork done and a valve job. I hope your installing springs with those cams, mild or not get either the Jim Wolf or the BC's. There are many choices of exhaust out there better than the Borla, do a search.How about the bottom end, rod bolts at the very least.
Well thats my two cents. Good luck with it and keep us posted.
My guess on RWP is 270 with your list of parts from above.

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Good luck, but honestly anything over 280-290 Whp will likely require some additional rev's. And remember, any substantial rev's will require some bottom-end attention (rod bolts at a minimum). So look around at some of the parts list on the other threads in the NA section and you'll get an idea. I'd be interested to see if you could get away with a set of ARP rod bolts, BC valvesprings and retainers, vavle job, and revup oil pump without having to fully build it up. BTW, I think to make that 320 HP you'll need to rev out to 7700-8200 (definetly a no-no with a stock bottom-end).

FYI, one thing I have noticed is the Megan shorties may actually be able to get to 315 whp (contrary to popular belief). I'm seeeing around 300 with a little intake restriction currently.

KA24DE

Not to be rude, but this guy is only half right.
Yes to Cams, yes to headers (no to Crawford. 0 dyno proven gains thus far)
Yes to re-enforcing your bottom end for higher sustained rpm.
The heads are fine, invest into good port job on the intake manifold.
Check motordyne for the best exhaust and Y pipes.

Exemption

iTrader: (1)

@bmc thank you lillith is what I named tonhe car.

@sirspeedy a tune is a must! Just not exactly sure what tune ill be goin with

@the last 3 posters- to answer all the questions at the same time. The bc cams I am using do jot require me to change out the valve springs. However it would be a good idea to do so I plan on doing that when i rebuild the old engine. The reason why I am using borlas for exhaust is because I like the deep sound of them and they are an all time favorite of mine. The md spacer will go on before the tune since I was able to find a used oem upper plenum. I would have kept the stock air box but the slight growl I hear with the jwt attracts me, with the air duct I see no reason for the "why not ".

As far as reinforcing the bottom end. The next engine will receive.

Status of this engine right now: studying how to properly make sure I keep the timing right as I am installing the cams tomorrow

the_coupe

iTrader: (4)

its cake. there are marks on the sprockets that you match up with colored links on the chains.

Exemption

iTrader: (1)

Ya I see that part. About to go mtch em up right now and get the engine to tdc. The fsm makes it seem so much more difficult then it actually is I think. Plus I'm nervous. Well see how it goes.

Match the links up with tdc at both #1 piston lobes facing each other
Loosen the chain tensioner
Adjustable wrench on intake cam with socket wrench on sprocket
Then same for exhaust cam. If I remember correctly that chain also has colored links

pro_350z

iTrader: (3)

good luck with the build!

Zazz93

iTrader: (2)

Timing is actually very easy, but it is equally easy to screw-up. just don't button it up until you are 100% sure your on the marks. The one problem I had was finding TDC without a stop and keeping the everything on mark with the tensioners. If you know how to use a piston stop and find TDC its simple and you're assured everything is right.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Ditch the ARP head bolts and go with OEM HR bolts, get a rev-up oil pump and, also throw some pistons in since your have the motor apart

the_coupe

iTrader: (4)

thats what i did. did the hr headgasket mod and used hr headbolts and an revup oil pump. along with forged internals and such