12SecZ

Ahh it's been a long and winding road. I am slighty lean not much but enough to go fix it in 5 days. Probably 12.3 but at 7 or more pounds it would be way out of spec. This is because I introduced more air and more boost.

A flash will fix it right up and I want to play with the shifting points just a little bit more maybe +1 more point in 1st , maybe 2nd 1st mainly for better launching.

I have a track date for Feb 4th.

I don't have cash for DR's right now I am broke, lots of money spent on this project so I will be shooting for the street legal class. I am running Falken 451's though which is at least better than stock, 285 in the rears.

I tried CMI last year (no more than 6 cylinders) but it's like 250 cars every time and not worth it to get 2 runs in while waiting 2 hours in between runs. On Street Legal night Wednesdays I can get about 6 runs in.

http://www.sacramentoraceway.com/srpcal.htm

So here is the finished product of a 1/4 mile 9ish pound ATI tuner kit with the extra goodies (no FMU.)

Special thanks to those that helped steer me in the right direction

EJ
Victor (Admin)
Victor (RB Motoring)
Doug (Crawford Racing)
Chebosto
Danny and Tadishi (Technossquare)
Future Nissan

Exhaust is wide open too BTW.

I sure I am missing some people especially all you members but enough BS here is the pic (love the new powder coat!)

flynnibus

Max.. how many hoses are in the samco kit? Just the 3 visible there or more?

I'm waiting for group buy over on g35driver to close up to get some.

12SecZ

5 total, some needed to be cut (modified) and you have to drain some coolant, but not all of it. I flushed filled anywayZ, getting ready to abuse this thing.

top, bottom, return, overflow and a 2 inch one in front of the plenum that you don't really notice. More work than needed for that 2 inch one that has 2 hose clamps. I used all new hose clamps too. Just need 2 coolers now. Summer for them.

spazpilot

iTrader: (2)

I was looking at the samco but am going to wait on the fluidyne radiator and do them both at once

12SecZ

good idea will make things much faster Spaz.

I will try and get a better angle tomorow that shows the others, it was pouring rain when I left the dealer today.

AgentOrange

so you said your running 9psi? Did they end up getting that SARD fuel pump in there ok? If so what did they need to do to make it work

12SecZ

This is my answer, a question to your question, and it's a good one.

I called ATI in July and they no longer were refering to their pulleys based on boost level. They call them "smaller" pulleys.
I am calling them on Monday for an oil sucka and oil!

So in the interim we had a teeth count thread and found my pulley from the "7 pound" kit had one more tooth than everyone elses 7 lb kit that posted . Then I added one more tooth (the larger pulley is a bracket removal and much more involved.)

So I have 2 more teeth on the small pulley (I think we are calling this #1? Would have to recheck the thread.

Until I am REflashed and go full WOT at the track or maybe gasp another Dyno (which I hate) who knows how much boost we are making? I also added the plenum and RT Cats into the mix.

If anyone else has this infamous "9 pound kit" then please post
A. Teeth number of both pulleys
B. Elevation and Zip Code
C. Boost level
D RPM

I may make 8 pounds, I may make 10 and driving becomes a factor too because my redline is 7100 and I made 5 pounds approaching 4k rpm's before backing down so is there really a "7 lb kit" and 9 lb kit"? My short answer is no, there isn't; just pulleys making different boost levels at differnent boost altitudes (in stock form.) Start a thread in the FI section under 9 lb pulley owners post here and I think it would be pretty empty.

As for the SARD I am gonna defer to Victor of RB Motoring on this, he is the expert I'm just a payperson and I am stopping there at his shop before reflash to finalize this.

D'oh

I don't want to jinx anything prematurely (since you have that final reflash still), so I'll hold off on the "official" congratulations until you finish your first 1/4 run.

But, UNOFFICIALLY, here's a big WOOO HOOO (Homer style) for ya!

Cool to hear that almost everything has been worked out.

One question:
Were you able to get your tranny shifting properly under boost, or are you still pursuing other avenues to get that resolved?

Again, congratulations (unofficially, of course).

-D'oh!

flynnibus

Not too hijack... but did you let out a big D'OH!! Homer style when you hit the wall? Hope that works out for you without too much pain

flynnibus

Thanks Max.. good job. For the modify, I guess you just mean cut to length a bit? I guess I should lookup in the manual what size clamps I need.. thats a good idea too.

12SecZ

Flynn I have the clamp numbers on my invoice if needed, the cutting was just to the oberflow the real thin one, no biggie. I have about 2 inches left of that hose.

Doh,

My car shifts through each gear fine w/o any issues. I think it is a matter of timing, fuel and shift points. Ask EJ, I pinned him to the passenger seat in first and second at WOT before running out of road on a short run but have done all gears before I added the plenum and cats.

The fuel pump issue as a direct replacement was done by Nissan for only $124.00 but there were not any extra wires done thus the stock voltage which is adequate for 380cc's.

I don't want to say too much about that because RB Motoring wants to look at it and see if Nissan knows what they are talking about as far as "width" . Nissan says it's too wide, then again Nissan says my pulley is warped and it isnt.

I do not plan on going back to Nissan for anything but warranty work. Almost 3 full days was ridicoulous for 5 hoses and a fuel pump. I think the pump swap can be done in an hour but there is a plastic housing it sits in that *may* need to be refabbed. Rather than take Nissan's word for it (who have done some pretty dumb things to my car in the past) I want Victor to look at it. Heck maybe EJ will even come by. Your right though, it's that dang reflash before i officially Woo Hoo!

Thanks!

whosdady

iTrader: (6)

Two small reccomendations before you track her.

1. Torque converter
2. Valve body upgrade

How is the plenum? I have been meaning to get one. Does it feel any quicker? How about louder? If you were running stock injectors/pump you would be running super lean with the cats/plenum. Plus you will be running less PSI.

I have some more interesting thoughts on your shifting. My car put out zero boost today as I punched in full auto mode while passing a car. I hate it when that happens!

MY350Z.COM

iTrader: (2)

Samco looks great, glad you like em.

12SecZ

I'm gonna do the Verter but the VB Upgrade is unproven to me and unnecassary.

I was not even close to lean, I was on the fat side and posted pics of my plugs; despite rumors of me running almost 14:1 lol!

Why would I need a new Verter before going to the track? It would stall higher and I would lose even more traction on my Falken's.

I think you want to see who's rear end and gears go first haha, been there done that. WD you need to resolve *your* sticking issues bro, I don't have any. Ask Tadashi he has driven my car, we have been over this a dozen times!


I am not having shifting issues, let's try and take this car by car. I shift under boost everyday.

I have "not made any boost" too but it was because I shifted early. I always make boost at a certain rpm and it isn't always the same rpm like with the Aeromotive FMU since removing that my boost engagement changed.

WD are you still unflashed and using the DFMU? I honestly think that is part of your problem, that VB is allot of work and very sensitive, I would sell my car before I did that!

As for the Plenum questions, no noticable increase in noise, just pulls harder and leans you out a little but if you start rich then you wind up almost perfect lol! I just want to be sure though, I feel safe driving it, but I do want the final "it is perfect" from Technosquare before I go track. I know another car who has stalled their Edge Verter twice and still having issues so I think you and I are heading in different directions. We should have bough 6MT's! lol

"If you were running stock injectors/pump you would be running super lean with the cats/plenum. Plus you will be running less PSI."

But I am not and "if" I won the lottery tonight the entire kit would be pulled out and the car would be rebuilt N/A. Then I would be buying a new Z06 lol!

"What if's" are too easy lol!

Hey thanks Vic yeah I love em!

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

I think this car may be ME.

Max, my second verter swap was right on the money. The 3000rpm stall is too extreme and is really out of control! I was sipiing tires left and right! Now I went down to a 2600 rpm stall (my second verter) and the car is great. It's running very strong (slips less) and the tire spin that I am getting is perfect for my tires (it slips for a tiny fraction of a second and captures). An important point: the shop manual specifies this brake torqueing test to not exceed 2600 rp - so I am definitely within spec on that!
Now I am get NO pinging and I am running at about 12.9 A/F (pretty lean) with my custom TS flash.

Gurgen

12SecZ

Sweet! Love your choice in mods. Even the NAV (I have touchscreen Pioneer too.

2600 seems low, what is stock?

I know you did all the testing on this though so whatever you did is what I want. With Nitt 555 DR's your tires wouldn't slip though and that is what I want, a hook and fly at the track! I am used to Verters and the slipping etc.

What tires are you using?


When you go TT it's s imple reflsh?

I have been trying to talk to you forever? Are you avaialble to talk right now? It's 240:00pm PST.

Thanks!

12SecZ

P.S I launch at 2500 with torque management off at the track anyways, did you kill torque management yet? It's a must!

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

Max - I just called you about 30 min ago (about 2:45) and got your machine. Call me back - I am just kicking back today (in S.F.)

Torque management??? Wow, tell me about this. Is it the brakelight fuse? I may have been missing out...

The stock stall speed is 2200, at least on the G35's, and I am pretty sure they are the same for the two cars.... Given the variation in torque converters, it is possible that your does stall that high (I have heard some of guys stalling at 2500 also, and some at 2250). Hence, I believe, is the statement in the shop manual about the stall not being higher than 2600).

For you, you will want to go to 2800 stall, then you WILL most likely spin the tires. However, Gene in Louisiana has the 2950 rpm stalla, and he spins his 275 or 285 Nittos (can't rememeber which size) pretty badly. So, I am thinking the 2800 stall is pretty good.

Gurgen

GurgenPB

iTrader: (2)

BTW, as for my tires, they are Kumho KH-11 (pretty good (8.9 out of 10 on TireRack) dry traction rating) 235/50-17's on stock 7" wide rims.

Gurgen

12SecZ

Check your PM's I think you got my cell it's off and charging for tonight. I don't show anything in my home caller ID.

I will be chilling here for awhile try that home number.

Thanks!