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Old 12-20-2012, 01:17 PM
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Darkknight916
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Exclamation POST HKS DLI-II problems

I've been dealing with trying to fix this issue for about 5 or 6 months now. Here's some back story:

I had run the HKS Twin DLI-II on my 04 Enthusiast. The car began to run rough and would sometimes not start right away. I removed the HKS and found a wire on the fuel pump has the insulation rubbed away. I re-insulated the wire ad the car ran for another long time period. Later on about 6 months ago, i bought more goodies and started to put them on and decided that the HKS thing couldn't be the issue since i found the wire stripped. I put the DLI on and it ran fine for a short time and then wouldn't start. Had the car towed to the house and it has sat ever since.

I did some diagnosis and found the ECU wasn't communicating with the CAN or IPDM or NATS. I sourced a new ECU, had it flashed and NATS removed. Now, when i take the key to the ACC position, i can hear the Fuel pump prime and the relays for the startup, energize. When i take the key to start, the whole car turns off, dome lights and all... it's like it "shorts" out the entire car for a second and then resets, but the ignition switch and the pushbutton starter don't do anything after this. I can jump out the starting circuit on the IPDM and get the starter to turn the motor over... HOWEVER, it doesn't make the car start... like there is no spark or fuel being supplied.

I don't have the super stout diagnostics anymore and i'm stuck... I want to drive my car, especially since i've got a bunch of suspension stuff done while it has been down...

can anyone help?
Old 12-21-2012, 12:55 PM
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Old 12-21-2012, 09:55 PM
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jerryd87
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first you need to remove the hks box and see if that helps although it sounds similar to issues i had when my ipdm was bad. this could be it but its just a starting point your gona have to diagnose it with the fsm
Old 12-26-2012, 03:43 PM
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I have removed the HKS box already. I also have replaced all the fuses and relays on the IPDM... the only thing that's not new is the actual IPDM itself.
Old 12-26-2012, 04:48 PM
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replacing fuses that arnt blown wont do anything, if the relays are clicking then replacing them wont do anything either. what i found is nissan ipdm's are known to go bad, they have circuit boards in them, gotta go through the fsm to diagnose it.
Old 01-05-2013, 03:12 PM
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Darkknight916
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Originally Posted by jerryd87
replacing fuses that arnt blown wont do anything, if the relays are clicking then replacing them wont do anything either. what i found is nissan ipdm's are known to go bad, they have circuit boards in them, gotta go through the fsm to diagnose it.
I know that you're saying, i've been trying to work around having to bite the bullet and get a new IPDM... I noticed there was a fuse that had blown on it when i first began diagnosing the problem... about a year ago... but don't remember which one it was. I also ordered NEW relays as i had read there are problems with them going bad and it was cheaper to replace them than the IPDM. It looks like it's sometihng in the IPDM though since i can get everything to turn on now, just not start. It makes sense that there's a short in the IPDM that makes the car "short out" when trying to crank it, then jumpering the starter will energize the starter with no spark signal. I'm just trying to figure if there's something that i'm overlooking that isn't the IPDM. I'm skeptical about getting one out of a "junkyard" car since it too could be blown and i'm back to square one.

I do appreciate the help though. I'll let you know when i get the new IPDM in.
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