Yup. Sure will when I get it all back together.

It's TIGHT, I will say that. I've grinded off quite a bit of the knuckle to allow full motion on the steering shaft.

 

Do u think the oem exhaust manifolds would clear it?
I would love to save the extra 800 bucks and just stick with my c5 zo6 LS6 ones that came w my block...

 

OEM LS3 manifolds clear it fine, only the top part of the stud from the cats makes contact if you done shave it down a quarter of an inch.

 

No cats=no problems!

 

In the process of shaving the bay! Excited for the outcome.

 

Did a little engine bay and exhaust work.

Exhaust:

Bay before:

After:

Intake tube is not staying orange. Needs to be cleaned, but overall I'm happy with how it turned out.

 

video is set to private. can't view.

 

So it was. Thanks for the heads up!

 

A great thread with lots of new info on an lsx install.
A couple of questions:
Where is the ecu, is it behind the battery?
Any particular reason why you went with fueled racing instead of Sikky or hinson?
I plan on doing a ls2/4l60e in the near future and can't decide which kit is best.
Thanks

 

Thanks!

1. ECU is in the passenger foot well. Basically where the stock ECU was position.
2. There wasn't a lot of feedback on Fueled so I wanted to try to the "new guys" out. Customer service was AWESOME. They always answered every question I had.

Hope this helps!

 

It does!

 

How did you connect the return line to the tank? Did you use the evap tube?
I don't think an the 350z tank has a return port, does it? I plan on running just a stock LS2 and was hoping the 350Z fuel pump would do the job, although I think the FPR is in the tank?
Thanks in advance for any info.

 

I used a corvette filter which has feed and return ports on one side (goes to tank) and one feed port that goes to the fuel rail. I used braided lines and installed an elbow into the fuel tank cover for the return line.

The Z FPR is on the fuel rail on the VQ. The corvette filter has an internal fpr in it, so its all regulated for the necessary pressure (58psi). I make 340whp/372wtq and am at 100% duty cycle at high rpm on stock truck injectors and stock z fuel pump, so if you're looking for more than that, then you'll need a bigger pump.

 

This is great info and I really appreciate the help.
I installed an LT1 in an RX-7 a few years ago, but this is more complicated.

 

I figured you were an RX7 guy. Name gave it away.

Glad I could help! Let me know if you have anymore questions.

 

Should have been the first to do a full detailed diy lol.

So with the wiring, you did it you're self right? Can you tell us exactly what was involved and had to be done/modded to each harness? What stays, what goes? And how you kept the accessories(ac, lights,ect) working?
It world be awesome to save 600+ dollars on a harness lol
Thanks in advance

 

The wiring was intimidating at first, but it really isn't that difficult if you take your time and think about what you're doing.

I used lt1swap.com and followed Brendan's guide. It was VERY helpful.

Basically, I have the GM ECU controlling the motor, and the Nissan BCM (body control module), IPDM and fuse boxes doing everything else just like they normally do. The factory Nissan ECU and wiring harness from the VQ has been REMOVED. These systems don't need to know what the GM ECU is doing to function properly. I still have the factory IPDM and fuse box in the engine bay that still gets power just like it normally does to allow headlight function, as well as the other body functions. I do NOT have AC (what non daily race car should? ), so I cannot comment on maintaining that function.


Hope this helps a little.

 

Anyone from this area going to H2oi this weekend in Ocean City, MD?

 

Had a great time away this past weekend! A lot of people loved the swap!

 

Any overheating issues?