torchkc

Hey guys,

New to registration, but I've been lurking for awhile now. I've been reading a lot and researching my 350z, learning about what mods and what-not I can do with it.

I have a 2006 360z Touring with 6-speed. Based on my reading and research, that means I have the VQ35DE Rev-Up engine (yes, my redline is 7k).

I have decided for now I'm just going to be doing simple bolt-on mods, and probably ultimately end up supercharging it. This should land me in the mid-high 300's for horsepower, and should be plenty for me.

I bought it used, and a previous owner put on an aftermarket Nismo exhaust and CAI. This leads me to believe that he may have done more to it (unless he was just going for nice sound, which it has), but I can't really tell.

As such, I was hoping you guys might be able to help with a couple of questions:

1. How would I tell, visually, if they already replaced the plenum and spacer? If I'm not mistaken, you wouldn't be able to use the stock strut bar.. which leads to question 2.

2. If I put in the MREV2 and 5/16th spacer, would I be able to keep the stock strut bar? If yes, is there any real benefit (aside from cool factor) to getting an aftermarket strut bar?

Thank you for your constructive input, and having such a great community!

-KC

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Look for a spacer between the upper and lower plenum.

The kit comes with spacers to raise you syrup bar enough to clear

calibredz33

the stock manifold sits pretty flush with only a copper or tin metal gasket from the factory to help with air leaks. the stock strut tower bar should sit about 1/2 over the upper portion of the manifold. the 5/16th spacer will make it pretty close, but the manifold shouldn't touch the bar. a 1/2 spacer on the manifold will may cause it to rub. but find a mrev2 lower plenum, or even an OEM non rev up plenum AKA mrev1 and bore out the 1&2 cylinder runners. that is all really what was done. lol. but do the manifold. buy some test pipes. finish the exhaust. Don't buy pulleys(the OEM are balanced to the motor).

I believe I have skunk2s proto type 3/4" spacer... I knew they where testing it, and I think they settled with a 1/2"
why do I think I have a 3/4" because I measured it and that's how tall it is.

now, I thought about what I can do with the strut tower bar, and know the improvement I got in my FWD car, I was scared to push my Z for some time. when I needed to, I noticed the front gripped, and it pushed back a lot less. I was able to throw the front, diving into corners faster and faster. i'm not sure if my math is right, but I was told to drive my car how I feel best. it parts that are designed to improve the car, aren't working for you, do something different.

i would advise before boost, see how much oil you're burning... our revups are notorious for eating oil. using a good oil, and finding a gas station that doesn't add to many detergents will slow that proccess down, but if your using a qrt for every 1000 miles, not pushing the car, I would suggest a rebuild and replace the rings on the motor. that's the weak point. are OEM rings wheren't made to deal with all the added **** the US puts into our gas. and boosting with that issue will just cause the rings to continue to wear and wear away.

torchkc

I actually didn't know it came with spacers for the strut bar. That's definitely a load off my chest.

Thank you both for the input. Much appreciated.

torchkc

I went ahead and ordered the mrev2 and 5/16" spacer last night. Should be here tomorrow.

VenomGT9

iTrader: (1)

Last step for breather mods will be either HFC or test pipes. I personally went with high flows to avoid rasp and drone but others won't care. Either way, the stock cats are the most restrictive area so freeing that up will help, at least on the butt dyno.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

you should tune after all the breathing mods, especially if you go test pipe route

torchkc

I will if I can find out if they're legal here in Tucson. I know the pipes aren't, but not sure about the HFCs. Also gotta' know if they'll pass emissions.. don't really wanna' swap 'em out every time.

Already plan to, just need to find a decent local tune shop. I'm open to suggestions.

torchkc

I've been digging everywhere and cannot seem to find out whether or not HFCs are legal, let alone which (if any) would pass emissions. All I've found at this point is that they cannot be replaced unless the vehicle is 5yrs or older and/or 50k miles or more, which I pass on both points so should be able to have them replaced.

If anybody can point me in the right direction to find out which HFCs might pass emissions in Tucson, AZ, please do.

I also cannot seem to find any decently reputable tune shops here. Does anybody local know of a place?

eZg

iTrader: (5)

I would call and ask these guys if they have a tuner who knows Osiris well.

https://conceptzperformance.com/about.php

They have been a vendor with a good rep here for a long while. I have purchased numous parts from them, but not sure about theri tuning.

gl

Heel Til I Die

iTrader: (2)

HFCs should pass an emissions test. If you get test pipes, then you likely won't pass emissions if your state puts the "sniffer" in the tail pipe at time of inspection. In NC, they stopped with the "sniffer" test a few years back so you will still pass with test pipes as long as you have no CEL. If you get test pipes and get a CEL, then you can install anti-foulers to pass.

According to this (https://www.azdeq.gov/environ/air/vei/tested.html) if you live in the metro Phoenix or Tucson area, you need an emissions test unless you car is 4 years old or newer. If you don't want to bother with switching out your test pipes with the stock cats each year when inspection is due, HFCs are probably your best bet.

It looks like there's two shops that do uprev in your area: http://uprev.com/secure/dealers

torchkc

That's who I ordered the parts from, but they're up in Phoenix. I want to try finding somebody local.

Nice, I'll look into these guys. I've heard about PSI, just hard to find any solid good feedback about them.