P0507 Code and surging idle
hahaha it seems to be a very lucrative business, you got that right.
The guy at the dealer was so "nice", he said that since they already removed the TB's to clean them, he would only charge me for the parts (1 TB = $689) and no the labor. Oh and he threw in a 10% discount...
Anyway, I have been thinking about doing this fix myself. I found some Hitachi ETB0005 TB's on amazon for $311 the pair, and from what I read, these TB's are exactly the same our cars use so, I think I'll give it a try.
I wish I was in SoCal though! You seem to know your way around Z's.
The guy at the dealer was so "nice", he said that since they already removed the TB's to clean them, he would only charge me for the parts (1 TB = $689) and no the labor. Oh and he threw in a 10% discount...
Anyway, I have been thinking about doing this fix myself. I found some Hitachi ETB0005 TB's on amazon for $311 the pair, and from what I read, these TB's are exactly the same our cars use so, I think I'll give it a try.
I wish I was in SoCal though! You seem to know your way around Z's.
Taking apart a VQ block to inspect for a bend rod or valve tonight actually haha
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From: Miami
Damn hahaha that sounds fun! Good luck!
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BTW, Update:
I disconnected the battery last night and let the battery drain (I stepped on the brake pedal for 5 seconds too just in case). Today, I removed both throttle bodies and both MAF sensors and cleaned them (better than the dealer did) and put everything back together. Connected the battery again and performed all the reset procedures (ECU reset, accelerator pedal, throttle plate position, idle relearn) and BAM.... the car is still idling wrong.
After doing all this, I disconnected the accelerator positioning sensor (that is how its called?) and oddly enough, when I turned on the car, the idle stabilized around 1,100. I know it is still high but the surging and fluctuation completely stopped. Is this normal or am I onto something here?
I disconnected the battery last night and let the battery drain (I stepped on the brake pedal for 5 seconds too just in case). Today, I removed both throttle bodies and both MAF sensors and cleaned them (better than the dealer did) and put everything back together. Connected the battery again and performed all the reset procedures (ECU reset, accelerator pedal, throttle plate position, idle relearn) and BAM.... the car is still idling wrong.
After doing all this, I disconnected the accelerator positioning sensor (that is how its called?) and oddly enough, when I turned on the car, the idle stabilized around 1,100. I know it is still high but the surging and fluctuation completely stopped. Is this normal or am I onto something here?
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Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Miami
Another update:
By reading various threads about this issue, I saw that most people who changed their throttle bodies at the dealership had the same issue afterwards. Apparently replacing the ECU/ECM was a solution for a couple of people so, I went ahead and ordered one (for an amazing price of $22 shipped, same year, same model, same transmission) and tried it today. After swapping the ECU's, the car would crank but not start. Is this normal? Do I need to go to the dealer to calibrate the keys or something? Or is the used ECU busted?
By reading various threads about this issue, I saw that most people who changed their throttle bodies at the dealership had the same issue afterwards. Apparently replacing the ECU/ECM was a solution for a couple of people so, I went ahead and ordered one (for an amazing price of $22 shipped, same year, same model, same transmission) and tried it today. After swapping the ECU's, the car would crank but not start. Is this normal? Do I need to go to the dealer to calibrate the keys or something? Or is the used ECU busted?
Another update:
By reading various threads about this issue, I saw that most people who changed their throttle bodies at the dealership had the same issue afterwards. Apparently replacing the ECU/ECM was a solution for a couple of people so, I went ahead and ordered one (for an amazing price of $22 shipped, same year, same model, same transmission) and tried it today. After swapping the ECU's, the car would crank but not start. Is this normal? Do I need to go to the dealer to calibrate the keys or something? Or is the used ECU busted?
By reading various threads about this issue, I saw that most people who changed their throttle bodies at the dealership had the same issue afterwards. Apparently replacing the ECU/ECM was a solution for a couple of people so, I went ahead and ordered one (for an amazing price of $22 shipped, same year, same model, same transmission) and tried it today. After swapping the ECU's, the car would crank but not start. Is this normal? Do I need to go to the dealer to calibrate the keys or something? Or is the used ECU busted?
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From: Miami
If that happens I'm turning this car for whatever $$$ they give me.
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From: Miami
Update:
After replacing the ECU but not being able to turn the car on due to the NATS, VATS or however its called (I would have to reprogram the keys for the ECU to work), I put the old ECU back.
Today I replaced the OEM throttle bodies with a pair of Throttle bodies from a Q40 with 15K miles, and still, the car is not working correctly. I'm out of ideas.
Should I take the chance and take the car to get the keys reprogrammed? I feel that even though I would be taking a chance, if that works, I won't be forced to change the throttle bodies at the dealership.
Any other ideas?
After replacing the ECU but not being able to turn the car on due to the NATS, VATS or however its called (I would have to reprogram the keys for the ECU to work), I put the old ECU back.
Today I replaced the OEM throttle bodies with a pair of Throttle bodies from a Q40 with 15K miles, and still, the car is not working correctly. I'm out of ideas.
Should I take the chance and take the car to get the keys reprogrammed? I feel that even though I would be taking a chance, if that works, I won't be forced to change the throttle bodies at the dealership.
Any other ideas?
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Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 24
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From: Miami
CAR IS FIXED!
I took the car to the dealership with the new(er) throttle bodies from a Q40 installed, but not reprogrammed (I tried to reprogram them with the pedal method but either I did it wrong, or it did not work). I gave them the extra ECU I had from another 07 base as well. They didn't tell me exactly what they were going to do, but today in the morning I got a call that the car was fixed. They told me that they left the throttle bodies alone, and changed the ECU and reprogrammed it for my keys and for the throttle bodies that I had installed and BAM, the car was fixed.
Unfortunately, by the way they did this, I wasn't able to know what exactly went wrong, since they didn't try to reprogram the Q40 Throttles with my original ECU, but its fixed. It could have been the throttle bodies or the ECU, so if anyone had this problem in the future, you know what to check for. Hope this helps!
I took the car to the dealership with the new(er) throttle bodies from a Q40 installed, but not reprogrammed (I tried to reprogram them with the pedal method but either I did it wrong, or it did not work). I gave them the extra ECU I had from another 07 base as well. They didn't tell me exactly what they were going to do, but today in the morning I got a call that the car was fixed. They told me that they left the throttle bodies alone, and changed the ECU and reprogrammed it for my keys and for the throttle bodies that I had installed and BAM, the car was fixed.
Unfortunately, by the way they did this, I wasn't able to know what exactly went wrong, since they didn't try to reprogram the Q40 Throttles with my original ECU, but its fixed. It could have been the throttle bodies or the ECU, so if anyone had this problem in the future, you know what to check for. Hope this helps!
