patboos44

This is my first time posting here. I have a 2004 G35 6mt. I had issues with the clutch pedal going all the way to the ground. Thought it was the slave cylinder then found out my throwout bearing was shot. I dropped the transmission and replaced the throwout bearing and sleeve. I didn't replace the clutch because it was changed about 15,000 miles ago by the previous owner and it didn't show much wear. So I went ahead and replaced the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and did a ss clutch line and I cant get it to bleed. I was finally able to suck some fluid into my lines from the reservoir however I have encountered some issues. The clutch pedal would only return 3/4 of the way up. So I adjusted the fork on the master cylinder to the pedal and I got it to come all the way up now but the fork is pretty much adjusted all the way out. At first when I put pressure on the clutch pedal i don't notice any resistance until about the last 4" before it hits the floor, and when I do feel resistance there is about 4 times the amount of resistance I would feel when my clutch was operating normally. Now that I adjusted the fork and the pedal comes all the way up but the resistance is now 4 times what it should be the entire way now. When I press the clutch as far in as I can the clutch wont disengage when I'm in gear so I completely stumped. Is my clutch bad? Why is the clutch pedal so freaking hard to press in? Why wont the clutch disengage when pressed all the way in? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks for your time. I tried vacuum bleeding and 2 man bleeding

yosip1115

This should be fun.

Any findings last night? Pedal is rebounding, so sounds like it's hardware, not hydraulic

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Did you inspect the pressure plate...not look at it but actually check splines/diaphragm springs.

I don't know why you would drop the tranny to change a TOB when for ~$75 you could of installed a new clutch plate/pressure plate/TOB and pilot bearing

yosip1115

Check the clutch pedal/master cylinder. Make sure everything is securely mounted. Be sure that the master cylinder rod has not backed fully out of the clutch pedal fork's threads.

Before you drop the tranny again verify that you are getting the appropriate amount of travel at the slave cylinder. I believe it is something like 29mm of throw down there.

If you verify a good amount of movement, disconnect the slave cylinder.

Next see how the release fork mechanism slides on the input shaft of the tranny. Should be butter smooth. See how it feels when it contacts the clutch pressure plate. It should feel like you hit a heavily sprung wall, which you did. If you sense any abnormalities or inconsistencies you'll have to drop the tranny.

Just to confirm, everything you replaced is OEM right?

Did you change the pivot ball?

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

Just a guess here but it sounds like you didnt completely bleed the system, which can take some time, especially when you get to that 3/4 return. Then you adjusted the pedal travel and the master cyl piston isnt in the right place. Again just a guess but its the first thing I would verify before going crazy.

Do what yosip1115^ said and reset the pedal position, and try bleeding the system again.