Real intelligent answer Would you mind telling all of us, (AT and MT drivers) why we should sell all the ATs and go with MTs and also why we shouldn't mod it. Real answers please and none of your elitist opinions passed on as wanna-be facts.

 

I would also recommend the JWT PopCharger. It was my first mod along with a grounding kit.

 

Can't go wrong with these first two mods. After these though, I'm completely hooked. I'm itching to find my next mod, so many choices so little MONEY.....

 

I have a list of recommendations but none of it matters if you can't afford it. What kind of budget are we talking about here? After all the money I have spent, if I had to start over I would say go SC right from the start. Get the Vortec setup and you will not be disappointed. You could always get a new exhaust later to add more HP. I got the bug and started spending money on mods that helped but really do not even come close to what FI is doing. If I would have saved from the start I would have FI now and be much happier. The aftermarket mods are simply too expensive still and N/A is proving that little gains are to be had here and there which requires $$$$$. With FI you will seriously know you have made gains. The only mod I can recommend right off the start is the Crawford Plenum. It will open up the top end that is so weak in stock form. It is FI ready and will help to create even air/fuel to all cylinders preventing carbon build-up on pistons and valves whether you are N/A or FI.

 

that one ^^^

 

A stall converter will not get you much in the way of better numbers without going a little wild which would require some really good tires to get any traction. A better mod for the 5AT regarding 1/4 mile times, track times and street racing would be a different rear end. You would loose a littel in the gas mileage for normal everyday highway driving but you would get into the "powerband" of the engine much faster and stay there much easier. If one stays N/A this would be real performance booster, if one goes FI, then you would want to keep the stock rear end since you would have a much larger "powerband".

 

You don't have to go really wild with a high stall torque converter to see improvements. Torque converters can be tuned to meet specifc needs. If you wanted to get the fastest off the line speed then you would set the stall speed very high. Doing that would ruin your daily driving because you would be at maximum torque the moment you let your foot off the brake and your gas mileage would go to hell. If you wanted to improve performance efficiency a mild bump up in stall speed would be helpful. I still think that a high stall torque converter properly tuned is the best bang for the buck for a naturally aspirated ATs. If you also go FI, they would complement each other well. Here's some info on high stall torque converters. For less than a set of new tires you can see some serious performance gains.

http://www.bankspower.com/Tech_understandstallspeed.cfm

http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/WhatisStall.htm

 

nice sticky tires.

 

Mr.Demon,

I haven't lost in the 1/4 mile yet to a manual and just this past weekend raced a guy at the track and we both had the same mods and guess what, I beat him 3 times. So much for selling my 5AT.

 

Mr. D

Also we were both very experienced at racing so you can't blame it on his driving.

 

Did you use the manual mode or strict auto? I'm not sure which way is faster. I like doing the manual mode, but I have to guess that the computer will shift better than I will.

 

Fblue,

First two times used manual mode and the last time used auto.
also for those of you who race the 1/4 mile a TC with a stall of 3500 works great,Trust me.

 

What way did you find faster? Like I said, it feels faster in manual mode, but I can't believe that I can beat a computer shift, especially one fitted to a high performance car that will shift aggressively.

 

Just my experience. Manual mode feels faster but auto mode is more consistently faster. My fastest time was in manual mode but I wasn't able to reproduce it. Auto mode times were higher on average. But, that's just me.

 

Pretty close between the two but manual mode is my choice because I can take the rpm's a little higher before shifting

 

What mods do you have?

 

IT must be some thing about US driver and auto's, why do you like em so much ?

YOu lot go on about it being a drivers car then dont even know how to change gear lol then you only track em in straight lines
next you will want auto steering , tee hee

I just dont get it.

Every car mag in the UK slates the Auto and every one knows it slower and weighs more.

d

 

Say it with me Mr Demon....TRAFFIC

 

Sell it and get a 6MT

 

Mr D

You're right you just don't get it. Check your specs again. Nissan's website lists the weight of the 350Z Enthu AT as 3,210 lbs and the 350Z Track MT as 3,225 lbs. I didn't get a chance to convert these numbers to kilograms but I'm pretty sure that the AT would be lighter than the MT in kilos unless the laws of physics are different in the UK. As far as performance, the cars are evenly matched. It will come down to driver skill.

Why do you think that because we have an auto that we can't drive a stick? I can drive a stick and I have an auto and I'm sure there are others. Even if they can't drive a stick why would it matter to you. If they enjoy driving an AT more power to them. My "opinion" is that a sports car should be performance orientated fun. I don't think that the type of transmission defines if it is a sports car or not.

You still haven't told us why we should sell all the ATs and buy MTs. We await your comment.