DIY plenum porting
04-29-2006, 07:26 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by DaveO
My dyno-butt likes the results.
DaveO
DaveO
I've done some porting work with my Dremel Tool. I had planned to hit this project on my 300hp upper, lower.
Good Luck and thanks for the pictures.
04-29-2006, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveO
Answering the second part of you question is easy. All the lower collectors I've seen (maybe 35 or 40) are rougher on the inside than the upper collector's outer surface.
It's real hard to answer the first part of your question... at least for me.
Are you real good with controlling power tools. How about doing tedious, detailed work? You know one serious slip with a cutter or grinding wheel and the collector's mating surface is history. Your description of tools--a power drill and grinding bits--leads me to believe you may not have a background in this type of work. If you don't this might not be the best project to start with.
bilinghm, please add your thoughts. Your descriptions, observations, measuring marks and milling results indicates to me you're real familiar with these types of modifications.
DaveO
It's real hard to answer the first part of your question... at least for me.
Are you real good with controlling power tools. How about doing tedious, detailed work? You know one serious slip with a cutter or grinding wheel and the collector's mating surface is history. Your description of tools--a power drill and grinding bits--leads me to believe you may not have a background in this type of work. If you don't this might not be the best project to start with.
bilinghm, please add your thoughts. Your descriptions, observations, measuring marks and milling results indicates to me you're real familiar with these types of modifications.
DaveO
04-30-2006, 05:45 AM
#23
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This job is not that hard, anyone with the interest and determination CAN do it.
My suggestion is to buy a second lower plenum, plan and measure, then take your time. Believe me, a large file, yes a file, can do all of the work I did with the milling machine. The grinding can be file work too. Or, instead of a fancy air powered die grinder, use a small right angle grinder. A angle grinder will remove aluminum in a flash with great control too.
I will be using a die grinder, and an angle grinder, both electric, both Sears Craftsman. I will also use a Dremel, and lots of emery cloth by hand.
Final finishing will be with scotch brite pads. I expect to have all the grinding and finishing completed today. I'll post more pictures tonight.
My suggestion is to buy a second lower plenum, plan and measure, then take your time. Believe me, a large file, yes a file, can do all of the work I did with the milling machine. The grinding can be file work too. Or, instead of a fancy air powered die grinder, use a small right angle grinder. A angle grinder will remove aluminum in a flash with great control too.
I will be using a die grinder, and an angle grinder, both electric, both Sears Craftsman. I will also use a Dremel, and lots of emery cloth by hand.
Final finishing will be with scotch brite pads. I expect to have all the grinding and finishing completed today. I'll post more pictures tonight.
04-30-2006, 12:46 PM
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The grinding and polishing are complete! I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Probably about 4 or 5 hours of work, much of it learning and going slow. Next step is to find a shop that will do a before/after dyno. Has anyone tried Allspeed in Peachtree City GA?
04-30-2006, 10:14 PM
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^yeah. Why? so to the unexperianced, like me, your simply removing a thin layer of aluminum from only the top of the runners? all of them? or just the 2 back one?
Last edited by aleok; 04-30-2006 at 10:20 PM.
05-01-2006, 05:09 AM
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According to available information, the front runners flow significantly less air the the ones at the back. This is due to the forward slope of the plenum lid. This is why plenum spaces and replacement plenum lids are popular. They allow the 2 front cylinders to breate equally well as the rear 4. Testing has demonstrated that opening up more room above the front runners allows more air flow and equalizes the performance of all cylinders. If the other runners were also lowered, then you would be back where you started, the rear cylinders would be flowing more air. Sometimes less is more!
05-01-2006, 06:54 AM
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I'm curious what the guys who have purchased the Mrev+ think of this home made version. You guys have seen the design and workmanship of the top secret Mrev+, so how do they compare? I believe everyone following this thread would love some insights from you guys. Comments please.
05-01-2006, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
thats not ported.... this is ported, will have dynos soon
05-01-2006, 08:38 AM
#32
i am thinking i will pick up some nice hp NA in trade for loss of torque. i hope it doesnt move my powerband too high.
will know soon, its at the machine shop getting the holes filled when i disected it. it had a few holes that went to atmosphere. i filled them with an epoxy when i did it and put it on my car. it ran like crap cause i was with the stock ecu. now i have a utec so i can tune it accordingly. will have some dynos soon.
will know soon, its at the machine shop getting the holes filled when i disected it. it had a few holes that went to atmosphere. i filled them with an epoxy when i did it and put it on my car. it ran like crap cause i was with the stock ecu. now i have a utec so i can tune it accordingly. will have some dynos soon.
05-01-2006, 02:40 PM
#35
As for Audiblemayhem's design. I was considering doing that back when i was turbo. I was gonna put it on a CNC machine and have it contoured and what not but I am not longer turbo so I can't see to many benefits. I would think that the design will work well and if someone made the CNC program (Charles???) this could be one of the most cost effecient HP gains for turbo cars.
05-01-2006, 03:41 PM
#37
i already ported my lower runners out about 1mm, also match ported it to the heads as well as i could with them still in the car. not sure if this helped yet cause i am still waiting for my tuner wb so i can tune this beast...
i will have it all in and probably dynoed in next couple weeks....
the lower runners have been in my car for a couple months now and not sure if they are being utilized like they should be without fine tuning it all...
if i get any gains outta my plenum then i will share exactly wht it would take your local machine/ welding shop to do. under 150 dollars for sure
i will have it all in and probably dynoed in next couple weeks....
the lower runners have been in my car for a couple months now and not sure if they are being utilized like they should be without fine tuning it all...
if i get any gains outta my plenum then i will share exactly wht it would take your local machine/ welding shop to do. under 150 dollars for sure
05-01-2006, 03:43 PM
#38
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
Bro, thats gonna kill your entire power curve.
Anyways, I'm interested in your results.
Anyways, I'm interested in your results.
trying to be innovative. if it kills my power curve, i will simply take it out and put my stock one back in
its done so no turning back, fab shop called a bit ago and said its ready to pick up!!!
05-01-2006, 03:46 PM
#39
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
trying to be innovative. if it kills my power curve, i will simply take it out and put my stock one back in
its done so no turning back, fab shop called a bit ago and said its ready to pick up!!!
its done so no turning back, fab shop called a bit ago and said its ready to pick up!!!
05-01-2006, 03:48 PM
#40
Originally Posted by bilinghm
I'm curious what the guys who have purchased the Mrev+ think of this home made version. You guys have seen the design and workmanship of the top secret Mrev+, so how do they compare? I believe everyone following this thread would love some insights from you guys. Comments please.
That was an early version of MREV+.
There is still a ways to go.
Hint: Thinking out of the box can also mean thinking out of (or beyond one) dimension or axis.
Last edited by Hydrazine; 05-01-2006 at 03:57 PM.
