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DIY: Replace Valve Cover Gaskets

Old 04-13-2014, 11:43 AM
  #81  
npr350z
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Originally Posted by Heritage View Post
I used non-hardening form-a-gasket (hi-temp). That area cannot possibly get that hot, as the valve cover is plastic.

First, I had to soak up the oil pooling in the recess between the seal/valve cover and the metal plug tube. I used paper towel (but I bet you could use a vacuum, and speed up the process). Once it was no longer saturated, I ran paper towel folded in a point to start to dry it out, and at last pass used paper towel with some carb cleaner (which acted as a degreaser).

Then, I used my finger with the gasket maker and forced it into the recess, and once it would no longer take any more, lightly ran my finger around the seam to seal off the tube to the cover. Viola! No more oil leak!

I said this before, but let me reiterate: the design of this engine's valve covers (this is a French engine, from Renault IIRC - this according to Tony from Motordyne - something I did not know) is stupid. It would have been EASY for the spark plug tubes to be made just a bit LONGER so that the COIL PACK would seal to the tube DIRECTLY, negating the need for the valve cover seals to keep oil out of the spark plug well.
im a little confused by this, maybe i read it wrong. but basically you put permagasket in between the gasket and tube, smeared it around so it would seal up. am i correct? valve covers still on the car and everything?
im trying to imagine this without pictures or going outside, but basically its just putting some on your finger smeared it around around the underneath the gasket.
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Old 05-18-2014, 10:59 PM
  #82  
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I have a slight leak, no smell, but some staining But will not know how bad it is until I pull the plenum off to do a Plenum spacer. It seems to me this gasket seal process makes perfect sense. You are cleaning up the tube/seal and then putting enough form-a-gasket to seal the tube and to then seal to the ignition coil. As it does not harden, when you insert the ignition coil, the whole thing should compress to seal. What is the downside except needing to be carefully when inserting the ignition coil? If someone does this, please take a few pictures.
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Old 06-17-2014, 08:44 PM
  #83  
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I'm going to have to go in again to investigate. I'm getting the oil smell again, but it may be from other cylinders, as I only applied the permatex to the couple which got plugs wet with oil.
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Old 03-22-2015, 11:22 AM
  #84  
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How do you obtain the copy of the manual you use to obtain the torque values for re-assembly?
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:22 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Rangerz View Post
How do you obtain the copy of the manual you use to obtain the torque values for re-assembly?
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nis...e-manuals.html
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:31 AM
  #86  
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Does anyone happen to know the size and thread pitch of the valve cover bolts? Thanks!
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Old 03-26-2016, 02:00 AM
  #87  
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hey i was wondering how did you guys get that bolt at the bottom firewall side of passenger valve cover? There is a bunch of things blocking it. I believe fuel line blocks it. do you have to disconnect any of that?
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:11 AM
  #88  
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Default BECK/ARNLEY Valve Covers with Gaskets

I need to replace both valve covers and Rockauto has the BECK/ARNLEY brand in stock with gaskets for less than OEM. Looking for feedback on this brand and if I should save a little on the cost over OEM. Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:14 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 7rrivera7 View Post
I need to replace both valve covers and Rockauto has the BECK/ARNLEY brand in stock with gaskets for less than OEM. Looking for feedback on this brand and if I should save a little on the cost over OEM. Thanks!
They are ok. However not sure why you are trying to save a couple bucks on a gasket. I got oem ones for 20 bucks. Not sure how much cheaper the advance ones would be.
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Old 05-24-2016, 04:45 AM
  #90  
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No not the gaskets - the valve covers.
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:05 PM
  #91  
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Saved so I can re-read... Im so excited, still dont know what they did with the gasket maker... Like they cleaned up the tube, finger banged it in their and called it good? Or tool the valve cover off and cleaned it all up and sealed around the plug tubes so you didn't need to purchase new covers?
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Old 11-10-2016, 07:06 PM
  #92  
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@heritage how is the permatex fix holding up? I have a leak in cyl 6 that is causing intermittent misfire and I am about to finger bang the hole with permatex even if it just buys me some time for a short while.
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Old 01-30-2017, 07:49 AM
  #93  
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I would like to add to this project:

If your car has a lot of mileage, you're most likely going to have to replace the PVC breather hose that connects both valve covers because it has hardened. Cut if off with a Dremel or something similar, careful not to damage the nipples on both covers. The replacement is about $30 brand new. Do this before taking the covers off. I learned the hard way trying to pry off one cover while they were still connected. Now I am praying JB Weld Plastic Bonder will hold the nipple in place instead of buying a new driver-side cover. Time will tell, and I'll look for a junkyard/ebay cover in the meantime.

Also, if it's not stressed in the DIY portion of this post, I'll do it here for emphasis. I highly recommend disconnecting every clip or bracket that holds the wire harness in place. That includes a clip at the starter. You may have to come up through the bottom for this one. Releasing this clip will greatly increase the amount of room to work with as you wiggle the covers in and out.

Go ahead and just remove the spark plug distributor caps. It's super quick, and you can lay them out on a towel in the order they came out. It makes a world of a difference not having to focus on lining them up as you are putting the covers back on with limited space.

Lastly, the valve covers, lower plenum and upper plenum all have a specific tightening order and torque setting. It's in the FSM: here. If you are lazy, the order for each basically starts in the middle and works outward. I don't recommend not reading the torque settings since you can easily over tighten and that's a problem when working with aluminum.

Last edited by JMSpeed; 01-30-2017 at 08:13 AM.
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Old 01-30-2017, 11:03 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by JMSpeed View Post
I would like to add to this project:

If your car has a lot of mileage, you're most likely going to have to replace the PVC breather hose that connects both valve covers because it has hardened. Cut if off with a Dremel or something similar, careful not to damage the nipples on both covers. The replacement is about $30 brand new. Do this before taking the covers off. I learned the hard way trying to pry off one cover while they were still connected. Now I am praying JB Weld Plastic Bonder will hold the nipple in place instead of buying a new driver-side cover. Time will tell, and I'll look for a junkyard/ebay cover in the meantime.

Also, if it's not stressed in the DIY portion of this post, I'll do it here for emphasis. I highly recommend disconnecting every clip or bracket that holds the wire harness in place. That includes a clip at the starter. You may have to come up through the bottom for this one. Releasing this clip will greatly increase the amount of room to work with as you wiggle the covers in and out.

Go ahead and just remove the spark plug distributor caps. It's super quick, and you can lay them out on a towel in the order they came out. It makes a world of a difference not having to focus on lining them up as you are putting the covers back on with limited space.

Lastly, the valve covers, lower plenum and upper plenum all have a specific tightening order and torque setting. It's in the FSM: here. If you are lazy, the order for each basically starts in the middle and works outward. I don't recommend not reading the torque settings since you can easily over tighten and that's a problem when working with aluminum.
I have an extra set of valve covers laying around if your jb weld doesn't work... I actually have 2 sets in my basement and a set on my car... Pretty sure only cylinder 6 had a little oil on the coil when I removed it.
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Old 01-31-2017, 09:29 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by dboyzalter View Post
I have an extra set of valve covers laying around if your jb weld doesn't work... I actually have 2 sets in my basement and a set on my car... Pretty sure only cylinder 6 had a little oil on the coil when I removed it.
Hey I appreciate it. So far so good on the jb weld though!

With a little oil on #6 and that being on the side I need, I may pass for the moment but we'll see.
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Old 02-27-2017, 03:33 PM
  #96  
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Default Dealership trying to overcharge

So they said cylinder two had an oil leak about a year and a half ago and recommended replacing both valve cover gaskets, valve cover itself, manifold gasket, throttle gasket, blow-by hose, and have 2-3 spark plugs and coils ready if other cylinders have leaks.

I have a feeling they're trying to replace more than I need to fix the issue. So I'm taking it to a local shop with 18 5 star reviews, and I'm gonna give them a list of everything I need done and replaced

Now, I need you guys to tell me what exactly will I need to replace, I have a feeling, I just need to replace the valve cover gaskets, manifold gasket, and possibly a couple plugs.

By the way, its to the point where Im smelling a burning fuel like smell, after driving it for a while.
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Old 02-27-2017, 04:55 PM
  #97  
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If you have oil on your coils when you pull them then the entire valve cover will need to be replaced or you will need to clean up the tube and finger some rtv into it...

All those manifold gaskets are metal and probably will be fine reusing.
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Old 03-06-2017, 05:19 PM
  #98  
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well the dealer said they should be replaced anyway. What do you guys think about that?
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Old 03-10-2019, 09:29 AM
  #99  
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I'm going to be attempting this. Looking t this thread and elsewhere, I'm not sure if it's a must to have a inch/pound torque wrench. Good enough to use the German method? Goot-n-tight ??? HF wrenches are dirt cheap (scary). Tekton is affordable (but reviews are also somewhat scary).
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:40 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by filmmakerZ View Post
...guess what I did?

Warning – This is a long post!

Parts
1 right-side (driver) rocker gasket (Nissan part # 13270-8J112)
1 left-side (passenger) rocker gasket (Nissan part # 13270-8J102)

Tools
1 – 3/8” ratchet
1 – 1/4” ratchet
1 - 9/16” short and deep-well sockets
1 – 10mm short and deep-well sockets
1 – 1/4” ratchet extension
1 – 3/8” ratchet extension
1 – 1/4” universal joint
1- Needle Nose pliers
1 – Channel Lock pliers
1 – Common (flat head) Screwdriver
4 – Clean shop rags
1 – Can of canned air

Extras
I have the Haynes manual, but it is MAINLY FOR THE G35 and there are a host of other more technical tools that can help you, but the ones I listed above were perfect for me. I HIGHLY recommend you allocate a lot of time, patience, mechanical aptitude, patience, physical dexterity, and patience.

Getting Started
1. Make sure that the engine is cold (let the car sit for at least 8 hours prior to performing the work).
2. If you are performing the work outside, make sure that area above the engine bay is well-lit.
Because a LOT of reaching and leaning on the front fenders is required, unless you have a fender cover, make sure that your pockets are empty of keys, loose change, or cell phones. This will help protect your paint.
3. Look closely at the connectors and ties before pulling on anything.
4. Make sure that you keep all parts, hoses, and bolts together.
5. DO NOT remove any bolts from the fuel line (been there and done that (not good)).
6. Because there is a small angle to lift the LEFT SIDE valve cover, you will need to remove the spark plug covers from the valve cover before removing the valve cover.
7. When possible, use the long ratchet extensions, as they will prevent any unnecessary reaching and bending.
8. For the LEFT SIDE valve cover, you may need to use the universal joint to gain access to the second to the last bolt on the bottom (toward the rear of the cover).
9. Use common sense, but make sure that if you take something off or move it, that you remember where it belongs.
10. Remain patient and take your time.

Removing the Engine Brace
1. With the car off, in gear, and the emergency brake deployed, pop the hood.
2. Use the Needle Nose pliers and GENTLY squeeze the small clamps and push out the ties that are connected to the engine brace bracket on the RIGHT SIDE (driver) of the engine bay.
3. Use the 3/8” ratchet and 9/16” socket and completely remove the three bolts and one nut on the engine brace bracket located on the RIGHT SIDE (driver) of the engine bay.
4. Once the bracket is off loosen the nut CLOSEST to the brace and turn the brace CLOCKWISE (to the right) until it is free.

NOTE: You do not have to loosen or remove the engine brace bracket on the LEFT SIDE (passenger) of the engine bay. Also, be sure to place the brace, bolts, and nut together away from the car.

Removing the Air Intake

While these instructions are for removing the nismo cold air intake, some of the steps may apply to removing the stock intake as well. The best practice is to LOOK before your begin disassembling.

1. Use the common screwdriver to loosen the clamps that connect the hose (long pipe) to the manifold inlet and the center intake section.
2. BEFORE taking the pipe out of the engine bay, remove the hose that connects the pipe to the gasket cover and detach the cold air sensor from the bottom of the pipe’s middle section.
3. BEFORE taking the center house out of the engine bay, GENTLY un-clamp the sensor from the section. Once removed, place the section and clamps together with the intake pipe.
NOTE: There will be a series of hoses and connectors that require removal. THIS IS WHERE THE PATIENCE COMES IN, SO GET PREPARED!

Now that the air intake is off, you can get a good look at the gasket cover and the other parts that stand in between you and the easiest task of this entire project. BE MINDFUL OF THE HARNESS OF WIRES AND CONNECTORS (IN A BLACK SLEEVE) THAT IS WRAPPED AROUND THE ENGINE, AND MAKE A CAREFUL NOTE OF THEIR PLACEMENT AND CONNECTIONS.

Removing the Plenum

Looking at the top of the engine, there are six bolts on the top of the plenum and a series of bolts and nuts surrounding it.

1. Using the 10mm socket, remove all bolts and nuts on top of and around the plenum.
NOTE: Make careful note of which bolts belong to where, as not doing so may prolong reassembly.
2. After removing all bolts and nuts, get the needle nose pliers and prepare to remove two pipe hoses (one below the air intake (first) one behind the plenum (second)).
NOTE: For the pipe hose that runs underneath the air intake, I recommend that a towel be placed around the base of the hose so that little to no coolant gushes onto the engine (and believe me, it will gush).
3. Secure the needle nose pliers around the clamp prongs, gently squeeze, and simultaneously slide the clamp up the hose.
4. GENTLY twist the hose left and right until it loosens and SLOWLY raise it off the coolant pipe outlet (beware of the gush). If needed, use the channel lock pliers to twist the hose off the pipe outlet (but be gentle).
5. Repeat this step for the hose at the back of the plenum that runs to the engine block (I recommend you release the end of the hose at the block, as it is more accessible). This end will not gush as the gushing of coolant is complete.
6. Once the coolant hoses are free, slowly fish the first hose UNDER the harness that sits in front of the valve cover.
7. After all bolts, nuts, and hoses are removed, slowly lift the plenum off the manifold.
NOTE: Be sure to keep all plenum bolts, nuts, and hoses together.

Removing the Manifold

Looking at the top of the engine, there are six bolts in the center that secure the manifold gasket and two screws (one in the front and one in the rear of the manifold).

1. Using the 10mm socket, remove all bolts that secure the manifold gasket. Place the gasket and the screws together away from the car.
Loosen and remove the two manifold nuts.
NOTE: Be EXTRA careful when removing the nuts!!! Unless your sockets are magnetized, I recommend you loosen them just enough with the socket so that you can remove them by hand, as they are small and would be an absolute pain to find if you were to drop one anywhere near the engine block (been there, done that).
2. Once all bolts and nuts are removed, gently lift the manifold off the engine block. Place it near the manifold gasket along with the bolts and nuts.
TIP: To prevent debris from falling into the engine block, cover the center of the block (cylinder openings) with one of the clean shop rags.

Removing the Valve Covers: (Right Side – Driver)
1. Using the needle nose pliers, GENTLY squeeze the end of the tie and remove it from the valve cover (there are two of these).
2. Disconnect all wiring connectors around the valve covers (squeeze the BACK END of the connector until you hear a *click* and then slide the two ends apart).
NOTE: In the center of the valve cover, you will notice three caps. These are the spark plug covers. For the RIGHT SIDE (driver) valve cover, you DO NOT have to remove these, but you will need to remove them on the LEFT SIDE (passenger).
3. Using the 10mm socket, remove the sensor and bracket from in front of the valve cover.
4. Using the 10mm socket with an extender, remove the valve cover bolts.
5. Using the needle nose pliers, squeeze and slide the hose clamp away from the outlet on each valve cover air pipe.
6. GENTLY turn the hose back and forth to loosen it before totally removing it from the outlet.
7. GENTLY grab the hose outlet and pull. The valve cover will come off. Take your time to make sure that the spark plug cover and completely clear from the rocker area.

Replacing the Gaskets (Both Sides)
This is the moment that you have been waiting for!

1. If the gasket isn’t hanging from the valve cover, flip the cover upside down and remove the existing gasket from the groove.
2. Use a clean shop rag and remove any excess oil and debris.
3. Use the canned air and spray away any dirt and debris from the gasket grooves.
NOTE: I recommend you take this opportunity to wipe the valve covers down with a clean and damp shop rag to remove old dirt, sand, or other stuff that might be on the cover (somehow a mud dauber built a nest in my engine, so I had to clean that out too).
4. Use the clean and damp shop rag to remove any excess oil and debris from the rocker area where the valve cover will be re-assembled.
5. After a little sprucing up, the valve cover is ready for the new gasket.
Follow the grooves to correctly insert the new gasket.
NOTE: Make sure that the gasket is snug, so that it does not fall free out of the groove. If the gasket falls free and you manage to reassemble the engine, when you start your car, you may think you were Jed from the Beverly Hillbillies.

Reinstalling the Valve Covers(Applicable to both sides)
1. With the new gasket in the valve cover groove, carefully replace the valve cover onto the rocker area of the block. MAKE SURE THAT THE GASKET DOES NOT FALL OUT OF THE GROOVE.
2. Once the valve cover is in place, re-insert the valve cover bolts and connectors, and any other disconnected parts.
NOTE: Do not apply too much torque to the valve cover bolts and hold off on replacing any hoses until the LEFT SIDE gasket is replaced and its valve cover is re-assembled.

I hope you find this valuable. If you discover any discrepancies, please let me know.
For the bolt in the far back left corner for the left (passenger valve cover) what's the best way to get it out??
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