New 350Z owners, read this before doing any modifications to your Z.
#41
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Intake, Header, Exhaust, Suspension, Wheels, Bodykit, and some ICE. That's about all I'm willing to do. I'm too scared to go for any FI on my $40K Z. Good Luck to everyone else with the ***** to boost.
I'm currently deciding on which project car I want to pursue. I'm deciding between an older model integra with a Type R motor swap or a 91 240sx with sr20det.
Maybe by the time I get outta college and find a job, I'll be the next person to swap a rb26dett motor into my Z. But for now, It's just cheap rice rockets for me.
I'm currently deciding on which project car I want to pursue. I'm deciding between an older model integra with a Type R motor swap or a 91 240sx with sr20det.
Maybe by the time I get outta college and find a job, I'll be the next person to swap a rb26dett motor into my Z. But for now, It's just cheap rice rockets for me.
Last edited by Donald0730; 11-18-2003 at 01:21 PM.
#42
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Originally posted by ypwpat
Is the 3M clear bra is different to the Clear Bra that you mention?
Is the 3M clear bra is different to the Clear Bra that you mention?
Read this thread, hope this helps:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....r+bra+torrance
If they are not by you, call them and they can find a good installer for you anywhere in the USA.
Jeff - zland
#43
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Originally posted by jedoublery
Great post. Man, you have too much time.....good for us though.
Question about suspension.
putting on S-tune strut and springs will drop the car by 3/4", but would it further off set the camber in the rear? It seems like my stock 17" rear has already a bad enough negative camber.
Great post. Man, you have too much time.....good for us though.
Question about suspension.
putting on S-tune strut and springs will drop the car by 3/4", but would it further off set the camber in the rear? It seems like my stock 17" rear has already a bad enough negative camber.
2. The NISMO S suspension is suppose to be within spec without an alignment. Even if it needs aligning, it should be within spec. That is why Nissan went for the .75' drop and not greater. Maybe it is not quite as agressive looking but it is within spec, handles great, maintains warranty, and bottoms out less. The less agressive look is the possible negative. Those are the pros and cons, you decide what is best for you.
Jeff
#44
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Thanks for your well thought out post. After spending close to a year on this board (lots of reading) I've come to the same conclusions. After all the time and thoought you have put into this it should definitely be sticky.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Thanks again,
Jeff
#48
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Originally posted by zland
I always wanted a 300TT Z but could not afford it at the time. Now, I can afford a Z so I am doing what I dreamed of doing years ago.
I always wanted a 300TT Z but could not afford it at the time. Now, I can afford a Z so I am doing what I dreamed of doing years ago.
#49
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Thanks for the great info...I found it really helpful as I am not an experienced modifier...I want to go forward with performance mods and you have helped clarify matters...
Next major mods will be headers, high flow cats and Borla TDE.
Then some drive train mods...flywheel and clutch...then I want to S/C (rode in one in West Chester PA...awsume).
Where should I install cams? What else should I do? I definately want to S/C.
Thanks,
Frit-z
Next major mods will be headers, high flow cats and Borla TDE.
Then some drive train mods...flywheel and clutch...then I want to S/C (rode in one in West Chester PA...awsume).
Where should I install cams? What else should I do? I definately want to S/C.
Thanks,
Frit-z
#51
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Originally posted by FRIT-Z
Thanks for the great info...I found it really helpful as I am not an experienced modifier...I want to go forward with performance mods and you have helped clarify matters...
Next major mods will be headers, high flow cats and Borla TDE.
Then some drive train mods...flywheel and clutch...then I want to S/C (rode in one in West Chester PA...awsume).
Where should I install cams? What else should I do? I definately want to S/C.
Thanks,
Frit-z
Thanks for the great info...I found it really helpful as I am not an experienced modifier...I want to go forward with performance mods and you have helped clarify matters...
Next major mods will be headers, high flow cats and Borla TDE.
Then some drive train mods...flywheel and clutch...then I want to S/C (rode in one in West Chester PA...awsume).
Where should I install cams? What else should I do? I definately want to S/C.
Thanks,
Frit-z
I suggest you get the cams and SC kit installed at the same time. That way, you dont have to tune your SC again after cams installed. If you know which SC kit you are thinking of using, i can give you more specific advise.
Jeff
#54
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I am very pleased with the amount of people that have read the thread and the amount of positive posts. Your feedback makes me happy I took the time to make this summary.
I certainly did not cover fine details. If you have any specific questions, I will try my best to answer them and/or refer you to people that have a greater knowledge in that area than myself.
Jeff - zland
I certainly did not cover fine details. If you have any specific questions, I will try my best to answer them and/or refer you to people that have a greater knowledge in that area than myself.
Jeff - zland
#56
ok, let me add to the long line of "good jobs". I've had my '04 Z for about three weeks now, and i'm just itching to start turning it into"my" Z. Stuff like this post is exactly what i've been looking for to steer me down the right path.
#57
Ditto
I agree will all those who came before. Overall, excellent advice. But one thing I would disagree with. Why do you say that if you add 100 hp you need a new clutch (you gave a reason, but it was not sufficiently detailed to support your point).
I have added 100 hp to my Z, and I think the stock clutch is perfectly adequate. It works better with more power. Bites nicely. Clean downshifts at speed come easily with a slight delay as you come near to the top of the pedal's travel; just be sure to add a judicious blip of the throttle.
You are right most of the time, but dude you are long-winded! lol
I have added 100 hp to my Z, and I think the stock clutch is perfectly adequate. It works better with more power. Bites nicely. Clean downshifts at speed come easily with a slight delay as you come near to the top of the pedal's travel; just be sure to add a judicious blip of the throttle.
You are right most of the time, but dude you are long-winded! lol
#58
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Re: Ditto
Originally posted by Caryl Chessman
one thing I would disagree with. Why do you say that if you add 100 hp you need a new clutch (you gave a reason, but it was not sufficiently detailed to support your point).
I have added 100 hp to my Z, and I think the stock clutch is perfectly adequate. It works better with more power. Bites nicely. Clean downshifts at speed come easily with a slight delay as you come near to the top of the pedal's travel; just be sure to add a judicious blip of the throttle.
You are right most of the time, but dude you are long-winded! lol
one thing I would disagree with. Why do you say that if you add 100 hp you need a new clutch (you gave a reason, but it was not sufficiently detailed to support your point).
I have added 100 hp to my Z, and I think the stock clutch is perfectly adequate. It works better with more power. Bites nicely. Clean downshifts at speed come easily with a slight delay as you come near to the top of the pedal's travel; just be sure to add a judicious blip of the throttle.
You are right most of the time, but dude you are long-winded! lol
2. As one person said, I covered most of what he learned over a year on this site in a 5 minute read. I would like to see you cover everything I did in a shorter method. The only place I was wordy was the intro and summary. You just said I did not provide "sufficiently detailed to support your point".