This is the deal----I have A fiberglass spoiler to paint--G41 Base Coat Clear Magnetic Black. The spoiler was used, with a coat of Plain Black. Quaity is good and nice fit. The paint that was on it was nice, but NOT Magnetic...Hence, repaint.

I use Sherwin Williams and lets not get into a arguement about that-as opposed to DuPont or other brands, I have been using it for years with success. I bought a new gun--HVLP gravity so I wanted to have something to test before I hit the spoiler( my door handles) although I have used it with Poly Urethanes with excellent results---But there is no room for error when painting a mans spoiler. It must be perfect.

I stripped to a nice base on the spoiler, then used the 2 part Primer, nice build and wetsand, dry, and cleaned with Surface Prep. Then base coats and got a nice smooth finish. Then mixed the CC and sprayed the door handles first.....FISHEYE from hell Fisheye every 1/32 inch ! I did a tip of the spoiler and same thing.

Drive to my supplier and I'm diplomatically asking WTF ??!!! Long story short,after a bunch of "Well Duh !!! questions, we decide to start from scratch. Spoiler is stripped to GelCoat, Primer is layed and wet sanded to perfection after plenty of set up time--2 hours, prepped and Base Coated ----Smooth as a Babys butt. Next CC----- You guessed it, Fisheye from hell !!!!!!

The second painting was done on a different air system (just in case I had ?something? wrong with mine and it also has filtration to the MAX.

Excellent atomization, paint volumn and fan throughout and Im a fanatic about clean guns, I NEVER touch a surface and go to great lengths in cleanliness. There was proper times between steps---I spoke on the phone with a Rep and everything was done right, I have a meeting with a Rep as soon as we can get his *** down here---My supplier called him.

Im using a 1.4 tip through out, which should be fine with air adjustment.

This is a Quiz----Any Ideas ????? Im going to have to strip again I ended up flooding it, hoping to be able to sand it out, but this morn, I broke through on a spot, so there is no choice now but to restrip and start over....GRRRRRR

 

Bump
Has anyone else ever seen this ??? For you guys that paint, you relize how aggravating this is and the hours of prep that is being put into it

 

Why not just scuff up the paint that was on there so i can stick to it? Make sure you use a good degreaser before paint and make sure where you are painting doesn't have dust particles hence the fisheyes. You can also wetsand after the clear to get most of the fisheyes to disappear but it will still be there if you look close.

 

Each and every step was done to spec. I picked up my first spray gun close to 40 years ago. This is not just a silly mistake, this is an oddity. Iv scuffed dozens of finishes in past years to fix little bobbles and as far as the CC, that is a given. wet sand 400-800-1000-1200-1500 and buff out.

Fisheye comes from contaminates,dust is dust, fisheye is fisheye. Fisheye is as a rule from silicons floating in the air or left over by waxes and polishes and HEAVEN FORBID things like water beader used on windshields.
Thats the reason it is important to start on a fresh base and work under operating room conditions. I may not wash my hands after I ****, but I NEVER touch a gun or part without washing and I generally use Laquer Thinner after to get rid of possible silicons in the soap. Im obsessed.
I also use solvent to clean the surface before the next step ie: Prep-Sol ( DuPont) or Sherwins RS500

Before I talk to the Rep, I need feed back of other cases..

Fisheye to me is UNEXCEPTABLE, If I get 2 on a hood, Im steamed, But here, I got no less than 100,000 on a Spoiler !!! <<<<<This is NOT an exageration

 

i'm not a painter, but i understand how frustrating it can be when something seems like it SHOULD work right, but it doesn't. happens to me occasionally when programming and it drives me nuts.

 

Maybe the cc it's self is contaminated. Maybe try a new or other batch.

 

So True.....and really frustrating when all appears in order. Especially when it is for others and you want a simple proceedure to come out perfect. Also frustrating when I may just have to use a fisheye eliminater when I shouldnt have to (FE has its negatives) and never find a reason for the failure.

Failures are a part of life, but are of no value unless there is an answer as to WHY? it happened, to learn from.

 

Was this a new spoiler or one that was on your car before?... Spoilers are close to the wheels and if you use product on your wheels (a spray to blacken them) it could have seaped into the spoiler and you are getting the fish eyes from it breathing up... same for the door handles being so close to the black strip between the door and the window.

I got fish eyes in my roof from the mcguires back to black I used on my strip above my windshield... I am also a fanatic about cleaning.... This was after scuffing and washing 3x with anti grease wash as well... Fixed by 7 coats of clear then dabbing more clear into the fisheyes and wet sanding smooth and polishing.

Good luck.

 

I did ---the first time, I used Sherwins verified for that process and the Second time another manufacturer that is verified as compatable.

 

PS.... how was the humidity the day you were painting?

 

As I had said , this was a used spoiler with a nice finish that I removed 100%. It was bought by a customer who is installing it on his car. The door handles were off MY car. Two surfaces, two materials, totally stripped, off of two cars.

The second spray I DID flood it, and some of the fisheye flowed but still 100s of fisheyes, and I repeat....Finall initial CC sprays with 2 different Clears, 2 different air systems produced 10s of 1000s or fish eyes

 

Well ---its Texas. So I tend to paint late in the day when the humidity is at its lowest and tend to go overboard on compressor filtration and moisture removal