Wetsanding a car
This isn't on my Z, but it's for my Grand Am that I just painted.
Now that the paint is dry, I'd like to move on to wetsand it.
Grits: 800->2000->2500(?)
I have been told to use rubbing compound and polishing compound after that.
My question is, do I need a highspeed buffer to get the haze out of the paint after wetsanding?
Or can I use rubbing compound and polishing compound applied with my hand and get it smooth?
Now that the paint is dry, I'd like to move on to wetsand it.
Grits: 800->2000->2500(?)
I have been told to use rubbing compound and polishing compound after that.
My question is, do I need a highspeed buffer to get the haze out of the paint after wetsanding?
Or can I use rubbing compound and polishing compound applied with my hand and get it smooth?
you will need a high speed rotary buffer for sure to get the best outcome. Not any orbital stuff either.
You will have to use a compound and still finish it off with a polish/glaze.
You will have to use a compound and still finish it off with a polish/glaze.
Thanks Super, you've been extremely helpful.
I have a dual-speed sander/polisher that uses a 6" rubber disc for pads to stretch over. Is this fine?
Can you describe or link me the process on how to apply rubbing compound and polishing compound after sanding? I assume applying those 2 are the same, but how?
I have a dual-speed sander/polisher that uses a 6" rubber disc for pads to stretch over. Is this fine?
Can you describe or link me the process on how to apply rubbing compound and polishing compound after sanding? I assume applying those 2 are the same, but how?
i would start with 1000 grit instead. Actually i have been able to get away using 3m rubbing compound with orbital buffer and then following it with a more gentle polish. Becareful with the nonorbital stuff, don't burn the paint.
Use a rotary buffer with a cut wool pile buffer. Just squirt the cutting compound over a smallish area, like half the bonnet, and start buffing, but dont keep the buffer in one place for long as you can burn the paint keep moving it back and forth. Some people even use a bit of water to help protect from burning the paint.
With 3M it's usually a 3 stage buffing process, cutting compound, rubbing compound, and then glaze. I think if your going to sand to 2500 grit, you can skip the cutting compound and go straight to the rubbing compound.
With 3M it's usually a 3 stage buffing process, cutting compound, rubbing compound, and then glaze. I think if your going to sand to 2500 grit, you can skip the cutting compound and go straight to the rubbing compound.
Alright, thanks guys.
Like Super mentioned in one of myother threads, the car does have the usual orange peel look to it. I was hoping to use 800 to get most of the roughness and small drips out. Then, I'd use 2000 or 2500 to remove the 800 grit's marks.
Once I'm done wetsanding, I'm not too sure on the buffing stage, hence this thread. But by the sound of it, it isn't too hard.
Well, I got the Grand Am because it was cheap and something to experiment on, so I might as well try buffing/polishing on it. If I get good enough, I may end up doing my Z too
Like Super mentioned in one of myother threads, the car does have the usual orange peel look to it. I was hoping to use 800 to get most of the roughness and small drips out. Then, I'd use 2000 or 2500 to remove the 800 grit's marks.
Once I'm done wetsanding, I'm not too sure on the buffing stage, hence this thread. But by the sound of it, it isn't too hard.
Well, I got the Grand Am because it was cheap and something to experiment on, so I might as well try buffing/polishing on it. If I get good enough, I may end up doing my Z too
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