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Removing driver's door switch panel

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Old May 27, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
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Beastiz...don't know if you got em off already, but i was searching for a DIY thread too and wasn't too sure for my '08.

I checked the service manual (EI pg 30) and it wasn't too detailed but...yup...all you do is pop off the padded arm rest on the door, then just pop out the driver's door handle/"window main switch finisher".

Easier than i expected. It didn't seem like it would just pop off but it does.

Last edited by dru_SA; May 27, 2013 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #22  
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I had the same easy scratch issue that apparently quite a few here have with that rubbery crap on the switch covers and barrels on the Z doors; mine is an '07. I read as much as I could find about removing the switch covers, didn't want to rip 'em out by the roots! I got a chisel (not a typical tool for working on a Z) because it has a larger surface area; I wanted to carefully try to get the cover removal started so I put angled tip of it down on edge of padded area and got it under the plastic cover. I slowly began to pry it up and it moved up some; could see a little gap now on bottom edge, got a screw driver tip in their and carefully lifted using both tools, soon it popped off!

I easily removed the 8 tab clips from the 2 switch modules and had the cover off. I cleaned it well with carb cleaner and rag, then I hung it with tie wire from a tree (did my front louvers last week this way) and, you guessed it, I still had 1/2 can of last week's Plastidip so I applied 5 good coats. I hope it holds up well, at least it's an experiment and I will try to report after some time; now it's back on and it looks great. I could have bought some cheap stick on's for $50 or so or give this a try with about a buck worth of PD. Got tired of touching them up with a black sharpie! Some pics:

Before, shows the scratches:






An hour and 5 coats later:







Last edited by BigBlue; Aug 27, 2013 at 08:39 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 04:56 PM
  #23  
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I want to plastidip my covers and the lock on my dash glove box. Those long women's nails sure scratch off the paint. Looks like I will have to spray with the lock on the dash unless someone knows different.

Any reviews on how plastidip spray holds up over time in these applications?
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Old Sep 9, 2013 | 07:47 PM
  #24  
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Here's what I did with all the crappy rubber-coated pieces in my '08:





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Old Dec 3, 2015 | 07:08 PM
  #25  
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Here I am a complete beginner working in my 2008 350Z. Figuring I will start small... It can't be that difficult right?

Wrong. As the above have mentioned the car's switch bezel looks as though it had been mutilated by a hoard from The Walking Dead.

Good news via searches and trial and error I have gotten the passenger side apart.

Bad news I can't for the life of me figure out the driver side bezel. Please help, maybe even a video.

Although people have said 05 and older are not different I have seen different variations in other videos which look nothing like my setup.

I do have the leather trim and tried just popping that up to be able to access the bezel, but no such luck.

Any information will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 04:50 AM
  #26  
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pull up on the pad right behind it, it will pop it up
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 05:03 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by travlee
pull up on the pad right behind it, it will pop it up
It does pop up, but then it catches on something. I don't want to pull too hard and break the clips under the leather finish. Is it supposed to give a good amount of resistance prior to fully releasing?
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 05:12 AM
  #28  
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i had to tug on mine, or if you are skeered, after it pops up get a panel popper under it to pry it up
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 05:24 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by travlee
i had to tug on mine, or if you are skeered, after it pops up get a panel popper under it to pry it up
Alright sounds good. I will get after it again tonight. Thanks again. Like I said when it caught on something I got nervous and figured I would ask before just prying.
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 06:47 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by travlee
i had to tug on mine, or if you are skeered, after it pops up get a panel popper under it to pry it up
There's a ruler aligned straight line in that comment but I'm not gonna touch it because obviously Trav already did.

But yeah, this thread confused me because if there's anything easy (or at least on either of my cars), it's pulling the door panels (and obviously, that means the window switch panel first).

Get the right tool for tugging.



Word to the wise.... when removing the window switches, don't take off the connector (unless that's what you're replacing). The wires like to pull out of the molex connector.

Just take them out of their clip retainers and let 'em hang while you're doing your other repair (window motor, speakers, etc.)
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 06:50 AM
  #31  
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its mine, i can play with it anytime i want
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Old Dec 4, 2015 | 06:57 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by travlee
its mine, i can play with it anytime i want
Indeed. Hide n' seek is a fun game.

And with that, the S/N ratio hits a new low.... didn't know it could be a negative number though.

Welcome back to third grade, folks.
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Old Jan 25, 2016 | 06:50 AM
  #33  
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Default switch control cover paint repair

I had the very same issue with my 2006 350Z. The paint was defective. To remove trim just pry up very carefully on the rear with a flat head screwdriver, get a second one and work carefully on the side - when it is up just carefully pull it up with your hands, the front will pop out. Rather than get a new one I sanded mine down past the shinny silver under the paint - just dulled the silver and sprayed it with Valspar premium paint and primer for plastic, black satin. I used several coats, then finished with valspar Premium clear top coat flat and you can't tell the differance from the original on the passenger side except it looks brand new!
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