Sorry to hear the news Todd, I saw you that day on San Mateo remember?

 

littlemt:
pm me and give me an idea of who you are out of the other 800,000 thousand people i've seen on san mateo =-)

 

hmmm....

Here is clue:

 

i knew it....hey, i blew the motor later that day!

 

So sorry to hear that....

Now you can build it even stronger, and start trapping in the 120's!

 

I'd be curious to know if it popped while at partial throttle but full boost. What the fuel level was, etc. I can say for sure that if it was tuned at high altitude and you then ran it close to sea level at full boost that that would not be good for it. Every bit helps...

Mark

 

i ran at sea level 3 lbs less than at 5500ft...so if anything, the car was running a bit rich..i didnt push it when i was at sea level...i drove like a grandma..deiving miss daisy

but it definately popped

 

How about my other questions. Also, did it throw a rod?

Mark

 

full boost, partial to full throttle, fuel tank just filled up (91oct)
any other questions? i'd be happy to tell all i can, my motor isnt out of my car yet...so i'll find out more soon
TODD

 

OK, now we have a little to go on. The tank was just filled so it's probably not a problem with the pickup. The partial throttle thing is very important. If you didn't exceed, say, 60 percent throttle (I forget the actual number) but you were at full boost that can be a problem. The car runs closed loop fuel control until deep into the throttle whenever you are below 4500 rpms. If you are hanging at 7~9 psi of boost and in closed loop, that can cause an issue. The car will pull fuel out VERY rapidly to achieve 14.7:1 Air/Fuel ratio in that area. It's termed PTFB in some circles; part throttle, full boost. The same problem occurs on some other cars. This is all simply relying on the thought that it was detonation and not simple mechanical failure.
How much timing were you pulling; what's your ignition retard like? Do you always use the same brand of gasoline? Do you go to the same few stations?

Mark

 

-pulling 5 degrees

-i dont know the ignition retard map by hand, i can possibly realtew that info later...i pulled timing gradually from about 4000 rpm up

-gasoline: 91 octane...chevron...this was the first time to this particular station

 

Ah, OK. IIRC from my own maps, I pull about 3 or 4 degrees everywhere from 0 rpm up to around 4krpm and then it starts to taper up to 6, I believe. This is for stock boost level.
Have you ever noticed when driving at part throttle (and this question applies to everyone) that when you are in vacuum or a bit of boost that the power suddenly increases at 4500 rpm? That's the closed loop shutting off and the car suddenly being richer (and therefore more power AND safer).

Mark

 

i personally have not noticed that..but then again, i have the e-01 as my only monitoring device...i will be installing a wideband o2, egt, and boost gauge while my engine is being rebuilt.
i think my lack of being able to monitor things is definately a handicap... any other gauges you would suggest that are top priority?
-TODD

 

Water Temp, Oil Temp, and Fuel Pressure are all good candidates. I personally will be installing boost, wideband, and water temp in an a pillar and i may do a fuel pressure and oil temp in the center. Water Temp to me is right up there with wideband. If the motor is running EXTREMELY hot especially out where you are the chances of detonation will only go up. I want to keep tabs on mine. ONe of my soon to follow mods after my turbo kit and Nismo LSD is going to be a Koyo radiator, Nismo t-stat, Nismo cap, and a full flush of some good fluid/Watter Wetter/Disilled Water. For you Water Temp and fuel pressure would be real close. Since the Greddy does not come with a new fuel pump (I dont know if you have one yet) I would keep a very close eye on the fuel pressure

 

i have a walbro255 and am installing the aam fuel system as well...
that keeps the fuel pressure issue pretty much at bay, right?

 

Oh yeah that should take care of it. In that case a Fuel pressure gauge is not a NECESSITY in cab. Definitely one under the hood though. I mean I guess it depends on what you want to spend and how many gauges you can live with. If I was you I'd do Wideband, Boost, Water Temp, Fuel Pressure or EGT. Either of these is kind of a piece of mind gauge. The EGT is not really going to be useful if you have a wideband already there. Yes I know EGTs have their merits even if a wideband is present but I personally think its rather redundant.

 

EGT's are used in turbo tuning to indicate when the car is pulling timing; indicated by slightly higher EGT's. It is difficult to use for that, though. It will also indicate if the power you are running is excessive for the amount of octane/timing you have to work with.
I personally don't think oil temp is going to be too useful unless you are running endurance with it; which isn't a good idea with such a packed engine bay and twin turbos without a bigger oil cooler and vented hood, etc.
The radiator and t-stat is a very good idea and should be considered mandatory before installing a built motor and raising boost, but I don't use water temp gauges too often on turbo cars.
Oil pressure is absoultely crucial for a built motor or to serve as an indicator when your bearings are damaged from detonation. Not many ppl seem to be losing bearings that I see though, so that may just wait until the built motor.
Fuel pressure is really cruicial, I think. It will help you monitor your fuel pressure on the top end when making boost to make sure that it isn't running out. You have to really watch your injector duty cycles with the GReddy kit; it depends on your boost level but you could run into trouble.
I tuned my GReddy kit with exhaust, fuel pump and cat deletes without the AAM fuel system. What I saw at spring pressure was enough to make me order their kit immediately and then add a few additional items to make it more complete. I should be trying the Speed Force Sheet Metal Intake Manifold very soon. When I do, I plan to redo the AAM fuel system so it has true dual fuel lines from the feed splitter all the way to the regulator.

Mark

 

I'd personally skip the t stat unless you are doing some hardcore track days...my ecu does not agree with my t stat at all and frequently throws CE lights

 

REALLY...thats not cool at all. I plan to make my car able to run anywhere including a good long track day at Streets. I guess I'll be talking to Mossy and seeing if there is something they can come up with or get with Nismo about. A Koyo, Nismo t-stat, and cap were actually pretty high on my "Next to do" list.

 

my car sometimes stays in closed loop during partial throttle.

here's how I know: I have wide band o2 sensor and a custom
microcontroller (pic) that monitors the AF and boost (does
other things too). If the boost is >= 1 psi and the AF is >= 12.5
then an audible alarm is sounded.

from my experience, if I've been driving aggressively, then partial
throttle is no problem (stays in open loop). If, however, I've been
cruising and then go mid way, then sometimes it stays in closed
loop (the standard o2 sensor is also monitored and it bounces).

4th gear is worst for me (note that I have auto). It happens
very often in 4th, less in other gears. When it happens, I either
press the gas harder (goes rich, alarm off) or let off boost.

the audible alarm is much better than monitoring gauges...
my suggestion is to avoid partial throttle because the ecu
can still be in closed loop.

rob