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another problem with vortech

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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 05:41 PM
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Default another problem with vortech

this thing is driving me crazy, once again another issue, this time... when at wot, at random rpm, the car will feel like it hit a brick wall and rpm's die, car doesn't shut off, but will not rev past say 1500 rpm's. i believe i have what is called limp mode, like im massing out the maf. is there any fix to this issue or way to tell if i even have this issue, my mods are vortech sc, dc sport headers, test pipes, borla td, somedays this happens, somedays it doesn't, doesn't matter what gear, sometimes i can redline in 2nd and it will go limp in 3rd, sometimes it will go limp in 2nd, anyone ???
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 05:43 PM
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on a side note, could this be because my car is running so rich ? maybe a spark plug issue ? just a thought....
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 06:06 PM
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Thats depressing, check with your installer.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 06:11 PM
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I wouldnt say its a limp mode . Strange it does it off and on . But it maybe the MAF sensor and Im thinking maybe a lose wire on the aux. fuel pump ? Any check engine light ? Try resetting ECU .
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 06:14 PM
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i get no cel, other than the peddle sequence is there another way to reset th ecu ?
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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un hook the battery for 12 hours
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 06:16 PM
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For starters, turn off VDC if you haven't already. At WOT if VDC senses skidding it will shut power down to individual wheels and may cut power to some of the engine cylinders. This can cause detonation and engine failure (happened to a car serviced by Avalon Racing where I bought my Vortech), but could, I guess, put the car into limp mode. If that's not happening in your case, the next place I'd check is the SS box's patches into the ECU harness. One bad connection or improper splice, and you've gpt trouble. Lastly, check all the electrical connectors around your engine. They should all be snapped tight. During the installation of the SC, it's possible to inadvertenly partially disconnect an engine sensor connector. With vibration from high RPM, the connection could fail. Usually in this situation you'll get an SES warning. When I changed out my plugs for my Vortech install, I failed to completely resnap in a connector which cause the SES to light. I found the problem in short order and had no problem after that. Of course, be certain to absolutely confirm that the MAF connector is properly and fully snapped in.

If none of this works, I've personally found Vortech telephone tech support to be very helpful.
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Old Mar 3, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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Erratic behaviour like this speaks to an electrical issue. I'd be continuity checking things while tugging/tensioning all the wiring in the engine bay that has been disturbed by the install. Anything that will have to move as the engine moves during on/off throttle transitions, triple check.

ahm
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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VDC can not cause detonation. It brakes the appropriate wheel and then cuts throttle to the entire motor (not individual cylinders). Essentially it is like taking your foot off the gas and hitting the brakes only automatic.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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Originally posted by narkotic
VDC can not cause detonation. It brakes the appropriate wheel and then cuts throttle to the entire motor (not individual cylinders). Essentially it is like taking your foot off the gas and hitting the brakes only automatic.
I'm not sure about how many cyclinders get cut but-- imagine you're at 6000 RPM WOT and VDC cuts fuel to the engine. During that brief moment, for a split second, you'll be running extremely lean while under boost at extreme RPMs. That can, theoretically, produce detonation and a blown engine. Give AValon Racing (Paul Gasparola) a call about this. They are very adamant about never driving under boost with an FI system and VDC on. One of their cars blew up for just this reason--in fact the only 350Z in which they installed a Vortech SC that had engine failure--out of dozens of cars Gentle driving is OK (like during a rain or snow storm when you want the protection of VDC). Furthermore, the wheel braking that VDC does first--before cutting engine power-- won't hurt the engine in any way although it will wear on the brakes.

KP Technologies makes a module for about $50 that keeps in memory your last VDC setting so you don't have to remember to turn it off every time you start the car. I just received it in the mail and will be installing it this weekend.
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Old Mar 4, 2005 | 01:41 PM
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Sounds like same thing I was seeing (still am but car is away for winter). Does it run fine again after shutting off and restarting? Mine does. It happened 3 or 4 times to me and each time was a downshift from 6 to 5th and applying 3/4 throttle or so.

I thought it may have been SS box getting a signal stuck and pouring too much fuel from 2nd pump, but I ruled that out by pulling SS box fuse while experiencing the bogging down. Didn't relieve the problem.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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That's really strange. Shouldn't you get a CEL if it's really in limp mode. Mine went into limp mode after my first kinetix plenum cracked. It wouldn't rev, and then died. I got a CEL, and the code said "stuck open throttle body" ie: cracked intake plenum.

If you don't get a CEL, I would think it's a loose wire. Maybe the connection to the aux fuel pump is loose so it's not turning on all the time? Strange. Hope you get it fixed.
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Old Mar 5, 2005 | 11:27 PM
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I'm pretty sure I'm barking up the wrong tree, but thought I'd say this anyway. Sorta like the earlier post about the VDC: Are you having wheel spin at the same time this happens? You know is the "slip" light coming on when this is happenin? I have the enthusiast model and so no VDC. But I do have traction control and when I have "slip" in the rear wheels, my engine power also gets cut off abruptly about like a "limp" mode. Of course I can turn the tcs off and eliminate the situation. You probably already know about this, but just in case it might be a factor, thought I'd mention it.
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 04:07 AM
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Take you car to Nissan and have them run Consult II. There could be a flaw in the wiring@ the ECU between the split second.
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 04:35 AM
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Originally posted by CaneZMD
That's really strange. Shouldn't you get a CEL if it's really in limp mode. Mine went into limp mode after my first kinetix plenum cracked. It wouldn't rev, and then died. I got a CEL, and the code said "stuck open throttle body" ie: cracked intake plenum.

If you don't get a CEL, I would think it's a loose wire. Maybe the connection to the aux fuel pump is loose so it's not turning on all the time? Strange. Hope you get it fixed.
I went in to a limp mode the other day .The car would run but would go pig rich and bog down if I tried to give it to much gas at once . I got no codes . Shutting off and restarting didnt help . I had to reset the ECU...then it was fine
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 05:49 AM
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Default Re: another problem with vortech

Originally posted by backagain
this thing is driving me crazy, once again another issue, this time... when at wot, at random rpm, the car will feel like it hit a brick wall and rpm's die, car doesn't shut off, but will not rev past say 1500 rpm's. i believe i have what is called limp mode, like im massing out the maf. is there any fix to this issue or way to tell if i even have this issue, my mods are vortech sc, dc sport headers, test pipes, borla td, somedays this happens, somedays it doesn't, doesn't matter what gear, sometimes i can redline in 2nd and it will go limp in 3rd, sometimes it will go limp in 2nd, anyone ???
Damn man. You just cant seem to get a break with that SC kit. I was at Z1 when you got it installed and your car looked awesome. However the SC was making a wierd tapping noise. I was sooooo close to buying that off them but I didnt and I am kinda glad. I hate to hear you are having all the problems and I hope you get it fixed soon. Hvae you contacted John, Lorca or Russel about the continuing issues you are having with THEIR kit? I might have to if I was you.

Zach
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 06:27 AM
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Originally posted by narkotic
VDC can not cause detonation. It brakes the appropriate wheel and then cuts throttle to the entire motor (not individual cylinders). Essentially it is like taking your foot off the gas and hitting the brakes only automatic.
I have noticed that when VDC kicks in my boost gauge immediately goes to zero, leading me to believe the throttle body is closing. I have not seen/felt anything that would make me think that fuel is being pulled or individual cylinders are being skipped.
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 06:44 AM
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anyone at z1 is completely helpless, i have pretty much just forgotten about even contacting them, each time i call i get the runaround. i call john and he says that i'll have to speak with a mechanic, i ask to speak with one and he said they are all busy, he tells me that one will call back, i get no calls, i tried to call lorca once on his cell number that he gave me when he delivered my car, he sends me an email asking me to never call his cell again. like i said completely helpless. I asked lorca about a warranty on the sc and he said sorry, nothing is warrantied, i contacted vortech to see if they would transfer the warranty to me, they said sorry also. pretty much the only person that i have ever had any REAL help from z1 is russel. at the dyno day my car was running very lean because i switched the exhaust from invidia to borla td, i guess this made it run lean, somewhere in the 13.5 to high 14's at redline. I happened to have my laptop with me and hooked it up to the r4 software, lorca did one change to the a/f and left. he said there, that should take care of it, he didnt' wait for a dyno run to make sure or anything, just left. russell didn't know much about the r4 software at all but was pretty determined to help me out with it, we got about 10 more runs on the dyno each time tweaking the a/f until we got the car to a managable a/f until i can make time to get it fully tuned, the car is running extremely rich right now, sometimes it will dip into the 9's at wot, which i know is not good either, but less chance of blowing the engine than if it were running lean. i tried to even pay russell the cas i had in my pocket for helping me know, he refused it. so, mad props to russel at z1. everyone else... well, you can probably see how i feel about them...
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 07:45 AM
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Sorry to hear that. After they installed my headers, I had a terrible clunking sound coming from underneath the car and told them and they said they would look at it before I left with the car. They said they would fix it and they never did. I ended up paying a local guy to fix it for me.

It seems like several guys that are having stuff done at Z1 are having problems later down the road. Not trying to bash Z1, but this is just a observation. Oh yeah, for those of you who dont know who we are referring to, it is NOT Z1 Performance from up north!
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Old Mar 6, 2005 | 08:19 AM
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same here, im not trying to start a z1motorsportsports bashing thread, just letting people know that i have had SEVERAL issues and they are pretty much not willing to help. i understand that it is about 5 hours from me, but i get no help over the phone as well. deff. not a way to run a company if you ask me.
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