I think my car has gone into limp mode. I drove it home from work last night and all was well, until this morning. I got out of my driveway and on the street. I couldn't rev higher than 2400-2500 RPM. It is like hitting the rev limiter. The CEL, VDC and Slip lights all came on. I went home and reset the ECU, which cleared all lights. The car still cannot rev higher than 2500 RPM. I don't know what to do, now. Does anybody have any help for me? I have no other symptoms. Thanks in advance.

 

Was it raining out when it happened?

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/120046-little-tech-help-please.html

This just happened to me three days ago. I cleared the CEL with my digimoto OBD II software and it instantly went away.

If you don't have this, you'll probably have to take it to the dealer to clear it.

 

It rained lightly last night, not too much. How much will the dealer charge to clear it up? I saw your post and was thinking the same thing. I didn't know that there was special software to clear it. I just did the standard ECU reset.

 

I have the software installed on my In-Car PC. You'd need a laptop with it installed to hook up to the ECU port in your car to be able to do what I did. Either that or get yourself an In Car PC

 

I would hope they wouldn't charge you anything to clear a CEL, correct? Wouldn't it be considered warranty work?

 

Would the supercharger void the warranty, though?

 

Yeah I guess so but your dealer may cut you a break since it is just to clear a code. Even if they don't, what would it cost, like $50? I'm just guessing.

 

autozone clears codes for freee

 

usually $80 to hook up OBD-II at the dealer. Some smaller mom/pop shops can do this too for a lot cheaper.

 

I'm going to go ahead and voice my opinion that clearing the code won't fix the problem.

--Steve

 

Well, i "limped" to the dealer this morning, below 2500 RPM. I had a tech sit in the car and do some clearing technique. He turned on the ignition and then was messing with the dimming switches on the left side of my gauge cluster. He then said it wouldn't clear it that way. He then took the car in the back and hooked it up to the scanner and it didn't show anything. I got the car back and it was still cutting out at 2400 RPM. The tech told me to come back on Monday, because the 350Z guru was gone. I drove off the lot, slowly, the car hic-upped twice and now it runs perfectly. What was he doing with the dimmer switches? He would mess around with them and then try to start the car, each time that he tried starting it a black puff of smoke came out of the exhaust. A couple of times it would not even start. I don't know what they did, if anything, but I hope that it doesn't come back.

 

The Dimmer switches? Never heard of that one. Sounds like VooDoo to me!

At least it's running now. Sort of like what happened to me last week. No problems since.

 

Isn't there a way to clear the SES light by putting the car in the ON position and pressing he gas peddle?

 

I did that, with the gas pedal. I swear, this guy was using the dimmer switches. I was right over his shoulder watching.

 

Did the gas pedal thing work for you?

 

yeah, it works. I have used it 3 times, successfully.

 

happened to me twice now....MAF sensor was wet....ecu freaked...basically the moisture in the air wet the MAF sensor...i popped the hood and saw some water coming from the MAF sensor where it was connected to the intake pipping but nevertheless it went away after a few minute of drying...nothing too serious...just anoyying i suppose with all this humidity and dew in the air...

Ben Y
AAM

 

Well, moisture does seem to be the common theme. Is there anything we can do about it. I don't want to get stuck everytime it rains.

 

try unpluging the MAF it happened to me a couple of time at nite. I had a Procharger runnig at 14 pounds of boost. unpluging the MAF cleared the problem

 

rained yesterday....had the problem in the morning as soon as i started driving....ughhh....went away after a good 15 minutes while the motor got hot eneough to evaoprate some of the water....got back in the car that night after it stopped raining...had the problem again...seems like a very recurring problem for when its raining out or it just finished raining...this moisture in the air is really bugging me....ill have to try that trick of unplugging the MAF sensor...im sure it will trip a code...but i already have my check engine light on for many of reasons....so why not another reason (test pipes)

Ben Y
AAM