I want to install the APS TT (I'd like to eventually get to 500+ HP). Here are a few things I'm curious about:

1.) Is it easier to pull the engine to install it? I've installed my headers and it was very painful, my buddy said if he were to do it again he'd pull the engine. I think that's a bit too much work, espically after seeing the sticky about this.

2.) Is it safe to use the UR crank pulley, I've read that some F/I kits make you install your oem crank pulley.

3.) I have the nismo flywheel and stock clutch, what is the best choice in upgrading my clutch and flywheel to handle 500+ hp? Should I stick with the nismo fly and just upgrade to a nismo clutch assuming it can handle the power?

4.) What's involved in tuning it? Does the APS come with a piggy back?

5.) I want to definitely beef up the con rods, and pistons. What I want to know is what type of compression is the best for F/I. I've seen them range from 8:5.1, 8:6.1 and 9 something... I think the best price I've seen was on the 8:6.1 set at www.forgedinternals.com

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

1. Depends on the tools and facilities you have, if yo uhave a lift then it is very doable with the engine in place, I helped with mine and the same shop has done 3 Greddy's and 1 APS all with the engine in place.

2. I have been running with the LW crank pulley and did not see anything about having to reinstall the stock one.

3. I have been running the stock clutch and Nismo flywheel all 9k miles since TT install and it is still holding but I am going to replace with the ACT clutch next week.

4. APS comes with UNICHIP which there are very few tuners, but if you do not make any mods you should not need to tune, just get a wideband 02 sensor to keep an eye on the AF ratio.

 

How doable is it with jackstands?

 

Well, its doable, but really difficult. If you arent 100% comfortable with working on cars, and you dont have 1-3 weeks to do this job, then I would leave it to a shop.

If you just plan to install the APS, no need to pull the motor...especially since you dont have a lift. If you had a lift, and planned on doing other mods, like clutch changing, etc...then yes...pull the motor. Actually...drop the motor and tranny from the bottom. It's about 100 times easier to drop the motor and tranny as one unit.

Your clutch setup is probably fine for 500whp. If you plan on doing lots of drag racing, you should really consider a multi plate carbon setup...such as the ATS twin or triple disc clutches that many of us are using on the board.

For CR, and a TT setup, I would be looking between 8.6:1 and 9.0:1. I have tried a few different cars with different CR's, and I can honestly tell little difference in terms of part throttle response, or boost spool with the different CR's. So honestly, I would just stick with 8.6:1 and save the custom CR fee. We sell any CR you would like...so its really up to you.

Hope that helps.

 

Quite a few guys have pulled off the front bumper, support, rad, ...etc and then just lifted the motor out the front of the car while leaving the tranny in place. Seems to be the easiest home removal procedure without having a vehicle lift to lift the car off the front subrame/engine/tranny like gq suggested.