Vortech Problems
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From: Jacksonville , AL
I went to the shop yesterday to watch the tuning of my car at the dyno it did not go well at all. First problem, I had Charles' (phunk) CAS wire installed and the car does not want to start. It will turn over for about 8-10 seconds before it starts. One time, I had to do this about 5 tmes for it to start. It will start, but it takes a while. At this time, it will throw a CEL and it is saying something about the crank angle sensor fault. You can clear the codes and it will not throw one again until you try to start the cra. Anyone have any ideas?
Next problem, my first dyno was around 275 HP!I know a lot of tuning is needed but thats ONLY 40 HP more than my NA setup. Also, the car is running horribly lean. It runs around 13.5 until around 6k RPMs and after that it spikes to around 16ish. Sounds like its on the verge of blowing to me. Next, the shop would try to add fuel, but the software wouldnt allow anything to be changed. It kept showing the RPMs at 500 and would not change from 500. I dont really know exactly what the deal is but they think its because of the CAS wire. Anyone got any good reasons on this?
So the car is back at the shop and they are going to be looking into the wiring of everything again including the CAS wire.
Next problem, my first dyno was around 275 HP!I know a lot of tuning is needed but thats ONLY 40 HP more than my NA setup. Also, the car is running horribly lean. It runs around 13.5 until around 6k RPMs and after that it spikes to around 16ish. Sounds like its on the verge of blowing to me. Next, the shop would try to add fuel, but the software wouldnt allow anything to be changed. It kept showing the RPMs at 500 and would not change from 500. I dont really know exactly what the deal is but they think its because of the CAS wire. Anyone got any good reasons on this?
So the car is back at the shop and they are going to be looking into the wiring of everything again including the CAS wire.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by EnthuZiast
What type of software are you running>?
What did the shop say about the crank wire?
What did the shop say about the crank wire?
I would definitely remove the CAS wire to see if it fixes the starting problem. If it does not then I would double check that the SS Box is properly spliced into the OEM ECU harness.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by teh215
I would definitely remove the CAS wire to see if it fixes the starting problem. If it does not then I would double check that the SS Box is properly spliced into the OEM ECU harness.
Have they used the R4 software before? It is fairly simple to use but there are a few setup steps that can cause problems if not done correctly. I kind of doubt that the CAS wire issue would interfere with the R4 software's ability to add fuel. Also, the stock Vortech map is very rich so if the car is running lean I would make sure the FMU is correctly installed and there are no pinched lines anywhere.
My offer to tune it still stands.
My offer to tune it still stands.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by Lorca@Z1
Have they used the R4 software before? It is fairly simple to use but there are a few setup steps that can cause problems if not done correctly. I kind of doubt that the CAS wire issue would interfere with the R4 software's ability to add fuel. Also, the stock Vortech map is very rich so if the car is running lean I would make sure the FMU is correctly installed and there are no pinched lines anywhere.
My offer to tune it still stands.
My offer to tune it still stands.
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i spoke to them yesterday about the CAS wire and told them to disconnect it... it sounded like it was either wired wrong or a bad wire set. send it on back to me so I can take a look at it and see if there is anything wrong with the wire or not... with almost 100 of them running around now, i dont think it a problem with the technique. i will refund you and pay return shipping i would like to see this wire set.
ok i just tested on another car. it was incorrectly wired or the wire itself is defective.
the symptoms you speak of are 100% exactly what happens when you try and run a Z without the crank trigger even connected. There was no crank trigger signal getting to your ECU, it was defaulting off the cam triggers and running in some type of safe mode.
Test each of the 3 wires for continuity and after it passes the test (99% sure it will since we test them all before they go out) then have the shop wire it correctly.
the symptoms you speak of are 100% exactly what happens when you try and run a Z without the crank trigger even connected. There was no crank trigger signal getting to your ECU, it was defaulting off the cam triggers and running in some type of safe mode.
Test each of the 3 wires for continuity and after it passes the test (99% sure it will since we test them all before they go out) then have the shop wire it correctly.
if you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the CAS wire? i dont think its needed with the vortech, just another thing to cause problems, just take it off and send it back. good luck with it.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by phunk
ok i just tested on another car. it was incorrectly wired or the wire itself is defective.
the symptoms you speak of are 100% exactly what happens when you try and run a Z without the crank trigger even connected. There was no crank trigger signal getting to your ECU, it was defaulting off the cam triggers and running in some type of safe mode.
Test each of the 3 wires for continuity and after it passes the test (99% sure it will since we test them all before they go out) then have the shop wire it correctly.
the symptoms you speak of are 100% exactly what happens when you try and run a Z without the crank trigger even connected. There was no crank trigger signal getting to your ECU, it was defaulting off the cam triggers and running in some type of safe mode.
Test each of the 3 wires for continuity and after it passes the test (99% sure it will since we test them all before they go out) then have the shop wire it correctly.
Zach
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by tig488
if you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the CAS wire? i dont think its needed with the vortech, just another thing to cause problems, just take it off and send it back. good luck with it.
zach: the return address is on my website at www.cj-motorsports.com ... to save yourself the time and money of shipping it to me first i would recommend that you at least test it. Chances that the wire is defective is very very very slim. Just use a volt meter and test for continuity on all 3 leads... I am sure you will find that it tests 100% and that it was probably not installed correctly. If it fails the test I will immediately replace it free of charge.
I might recommend attempting the installation yourself, and I will gladly speak to you on the phone about it and give you brief instructions... its extremely simple. To date there are only 4 people who have had problems installing it (that have notified me)... 2 of them worked it out themselves and there are 2 left including yourself that have had installers fail on the installation.
Out of yours and the other fellows, no one has told me if they even tested the wires for continuity. We test them all before shipping them out, so it would be an extremely rare case of it somehow being defective... its an extremely basic product. if all 3 leads test positive for continuity (only takes a minute or two to test with a volt meter) then there is no way its a problem with the product.
You are definatly very welcome to send it back and have me look at it, but keep it mind it is only a wire with a plug on the end and the chances its bad are much more slim then the chances it was not correctly installed.
-Charles
I might recommend attempting the installation yourself, and I will gladly speak to you on the phone about it and give you brief instructions... its extremely simple. To date there are only 4 people who have had problems installing it (that have notified me)... 2 of them worked it out themselves and there are 2 left including yourself that have had installers fail on the installation.
Out of yours and the other fellows, no one has told me if they even tested the wires for continuity. We test them all before shipping them out, so it would be an extremely rare case of it somehow being defective... its an extremely basic product. if all 3 leads test positive for continuity (only takes a minute or two to test with a volt meter) then there is no way its a problem with the product.
You are definatly very welcome to send it back and have me look at it, but keep it mind it is only a wire with a plug on the end and the chances its bad are much more slim then the chances it was not correctly installed.
-Charles
Last edited by phunk; May 22, 2005 at 04:07 PM.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by phunk
zach: the return address is on my website at www.cj-motorsports.com ... to save yourself the time and money of shipping it to me first i would recommend that you at least test it. Chances that the wire is defective is very very very slim. Just use a volt meter and test for continuity on all 3 leads... I am sure you will find that it tests 100% and that it was probably not installed correctly. If it fails the test I will immediately replace it free of charge.
I might recommend attempting the installation yourself, and I will gladly speak to you on the phone about it and give you brief instructions... its extremely simple. To date there are only 4 people who have had problems installing it (that have notified me)... 2 of them worked it out themselves and there are 2 left including yourself that have had installers fail on the installation.
Out of yours and the other fellows, no one has told me if they even tested the wires for continuity. We test them all before shipping them out, so it would be an extremely rare case of it somehow being defective... its an extremely basic product. if all 3 leads test positive for continuity (only takes a minute or two to test with a volt meter) then there is no way its a problem with the product.
You are definatly very welcome to send it back and have me look at it, but keep it mind it is only a wire with a plug on the end and the chances its bad are much more slim then the chances it was not correctly installed.
-Charles
I might recommend attempting the installation yourself, and I will gladly speak to you on the phone about it and give you brief instructions... its extremely simple. To date there are only 4 people who have had problems installing it (that have notified me)... 2 of them worked it out themselves and there are 2 left including yourself that have had installers fail on the installation.
Out of yours and the other fellows, no one has told me if they even tested the wires for continuity. We test them all before shipping them out, so it would be an extremely rare case of it somehow being defective... its an extremely basic product. if all 3 leads test positive for continuity (only takes a minute or two to test with a volt meter) then there is no way its a problem with the product.
You are definatly very welcome to send it back and have me look at it, but keep it mind it is only a wire with a plug on the end and the chances its bad are much more slim then the chances it was not correctly installed.
-Charles
there have been hundreds of vortech users including myself that have never installed a CAS without a single problem, if you damage your engine with a vortech, it will be from something else, and as far as i know there have only been maybe 2 people (if that may) damaging the engine with a vortech, and the reasons were known, either ring lands, or not pulling timing, running different pulleys, etc. heck, booger has upgraded his blower and running like 13psi, and im not sure even he has a CAS wire. of course his motor is forged now.
but i guess its good to be on the safe side.
btw have you been back to walker yet, let me know when you go, i can help with the tuning, and id like to see the car. i even have some z maps, good ones, that got around 400hp.
but i guess its good to be on the safe side.
btw have you been back to walker yet, let me know when you go, i can help with the tuning, and id like to see the car. i even have some z maps, good ones, that got around 400hp.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by tig488
there have been hundreds of vortech users including myself that have never installed a CAS without a single problem, if you damage your engine with a vortech, it will be from something else, and as far as i know there have only been maybe 2 people (if that may) damaging the engine with a vortech, and the reasons were known, either ring lands, or not pulling timing, running different pulleys, etc. heck, booger has upgraded his blower and running like 13psi, and im not sure even he has a CAS wire. of course his motor is forged now.
but i guess its good to be on the safe side.
btw have you been back to walker yet, let me know when you go, i can help with the tuning, and id like to see the car. i even have some z maps, good ones, that got around 400hp.
but i guess its good to be on the safe side.
btw have you been back to walker yet, let me know when you go, i can help with the tuning, and id like to see the car. i even have some z maps, good ones, that got around 400hp.
I had CAS wire problems as well with my installer. Also the lean condition is from loading maps - apparently the tuner has to change settings to turn the aux fuel pump on after loading a new map.
BTW - tuned the car rich over 6,000 RPM and now have 401. Could have gone more but better safe then sorry.
Jeremy
BTW - tuned the car rich over 6,000 RPM and now have 401. Could have gone more but better safe then sorry.
Jeremy
I had a Vortech installed on my stock car for 4000 miles and now my car eats oil. I removed it and sold it a few months back and now Im waiting to see if I can get a new motor from Nissan.
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From: Jacksonville , AL
Originally Posted by LeMans350z
I had CAS wire problems as well with my installer. Also the lean condition is from loading maps - apparently the tuner has to change settings to turn the aux fuel pump on after loading a new map.
BTW - tuned the car rich over 6,000 RPM and now have 401. Could have gone more but better safe then sorry.
Jeremy
BTW - tuned the car rich over 6,000 RPM and now have 401. Could have gone more but better safe then sorry.
Jeremy
I wish you had posted this on Thursday!! The guy from Avalon told my installer the same thing as you are saying.



