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Old May 20, 2005 | 04:53 AM
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Default Vortech Problems

I went to the shop yesterday to watch the tuning of my car at the dyno it did not go well at all. First problem, I had Charles' (phunk) CAS wire installed and the car does not want to start. It will turn over for about 8-10 seconds before it starts. One time, I had to do this about 5 tmes for it to start. It will start, but it takes a while. At this time, it will throw a CEL and it is saying something about the crank angle sensor fault. You can clear the codes and it will not throw one again until you try to start the cra. Anyone have any ideas?

Next problem, my first dyno was around 275 HP!I know a lot of tuning is needed but thats ONLY 40 HP more than my NA setup. Also, the car is running horribly lean. It runs around 13.5 until around 6k RPMs and after that it spikes to around 16ish. Sounds like its on the verge of blowing to me. Next, the shop would try to add fuel, but the software wouldnt allow anything to be changed. It kept showing the RPMs at 500 and would not change from 500. I dont really know exactly what the deal is but they think its because of the CAS wire. Anyone got any good reasons on this?

So the car is back at the shop and they are going to be looking into the wiring of everything again including the CAS wire.
Attached Thumbnails Vortech Problems-dyno.jpg  
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:03 AM
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What type of software are you running>?
What did the shop say about the crank wire?
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by EnthuZiast
What type of software are you running>?
What did the shop say about the crank wire?
Its the R4 software. The shop thinks that maybe the CAS wire is what is causing the problems. I think they are going towire up the OEM one and see what happens. Not really sure though!
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Old May 20, 2005 | 05:44 AM
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I would definitely remove the CAS wire to see if it fixes the starting problem. If it does not then I would double check that the SS Box is properly spliced into the OEM ECU harness.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by teh215
I would definitely remove the CAS wire to see if it fixes the starting problem. If it does not then I would double check that the SS Box is properly spliced into the OEM ECU harness.
Just got off the phone with the shop. They did remove the CAS wire and hooked the OEM one back in and it started up with no effort at all, just like it should. They are going to try to get back to the dyno here soon and see whats up. Maybe that will fix the problem and it will be able to be tuned. ZDayZ would not be as good from the back seat of an EVo! I would much rather be in the front seat of my SC Z!!!
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Old May 20, 2005 | 07:15 AM
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Have they used the R4 software before? It is fairly simple to use but there are a few setup steps that can cause problems if not done correctly. I kind of doubt that the CAS wire issue would interfere with the R4 software's ability to add fuel. Also, the stock Vortech map is very rich so if the car is running lean I would make sure the FMU is correctly installed and there are no pinched lines anywhere.

My offer to tune it still stands.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Lorca@Z1
Have they used the R4 software before? It is fairly simple to use but there are a few setup steps that can cause problems if not done correctly. I kind of doubt that the CAS wire issue would interfere with the R4 software's ability to add fuel. Also, the stock Vortech map is very rich so if the car is running lean I would make sure the FMU is correctly installed and there are no pinched lines anywhere.

My offer to tune it still stands.
Thanks Lorca. They did wire in the OEM CAS wire and it started up immediately. They have used the R4 before on other cars, just not the Z. They are going to take it to the dyno this morning and I should have an update on it by this afternoon.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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i spoke to them yesterday about the CAS wire and told them to disconnect it... it sounded like it was either wired wrong or a bad wire set. send it on back to me so I can take a look at it and see if there is anything wrong with the wire or not... with almost 100 of them running around now, i dont think it a problem with the technique. i will refund you and pay return shipping i would like to see this wire set.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:42 AM
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ok i just tested on another car. it was incorrectly wired or the wire itself is defective.

the symptoms you speak of are 100% exactly what happens when you try and run a Z without the crank trigger even connected. There was no crank trigger signal getting to your ECU, it was defaulting off the cam triggers and running in some type of safe mode.

Test each of the 3 wires for continuity and after it passes the test (99% sure it will since we test them all before they go out) then have the shop wire it correctly.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 02:01 PM
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if you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the CAS wire? i dont think its needed with the vortech, just another thing to cause problems, just take it off and send it back. good luck with it.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by phunk
ok i just tested on another car. it was incorrectly wired or the wire itself is defective.

the symptoms you speak of are 100% exactly what happens when you try and run a Z without the crank trigger even connected. There was no crank trigger signal getting to your ECU, it was defaulting off the cam triggers and running in some type of safe mode.

Test each of the 3 wires for continuity and after it passes the test (99% sure it will since we test them all before they go out) then have the shop wire it correctly.
Charles, they did rewire the OEM wire and the car started up exactly like it was stock. So, I dont think that they wired yours incorrectly, but I am not sure, just guessing. Will you please PM me the return info as I have discarded the envelope it came in? I would also like to get a replacement for the added security still.

Zach
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Old May 22, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by tig488
if you dont mind me asking, why did you go with the CAS wire? i dont think its needed with the vortech, just another thing to cause problems, just take it off and send it back. good luck with it.
I went with it for the extra security. I know that this is one of the theories of our engines blowing. I would rather spend the extra $80 just to be extra safe and eliminate that possibility from the equation. Sure, it may not be needed, but it was ONLY $80. Beats the hell out of a possible engine failure and rebuild!!
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Old May 22, 2005 | 04:02 PM
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zach: the return address is on my website at www.cj-motorsports.com ... to save yourself the time and money of shipping it to me first i would recommend that you at least test it. Chances that the wire is defective is very very very slim. Just use a volt meter and test for continuity on all 3 leads... I am sure you will find that it tests 100% and that it was probably not installed correctly. If it fails the test I will immediately replace it free of charge.

I might recommend attempting the installation yourself, and I will gladly speak to you on the phone about it and give you brief instructions... its extremely simple. To date there are only 4 people who have had problems installing it (that have notified me)... 2 of them worked it out themselves and there are 2 left including yourself that have had installers fail on the installation.

Out of yours and the other fellows, no one has told me if they even tested the wires for continuity. We test them all before shipping them out, so it would be an extremely rare case of it somehow being defective... its an extremely basic product. if all 3 leads test positive for continuity (only takes a minute or two to test with a volt meter) then there is no way its a problem with the product.

You are definatly very welcome to send it back and have me look at it, but keep it mind it is only a wire with a plug on the end and the chances its bad are much more slim then the chances it was not correctly installed.

-Charles

Last edited by phunk; May 22, 2005 at 04:07 PM.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by phunk
zach: the return address is on my website at www.cj-motorsports.com ... to save yourself the time and money of shipping it to me first i would recommend that you at least test it. Chances that the wire is defective is very very very slim. Just use a volt meter and test for continuity on all 3 leads... I am sure you will find that it tests 100% and that it was probably not installed correctly. If it fails the test I will immediately replace it free of charge.

I might recommend attempting the installation yourself, and I will gladly speak to you on the phone about it and give you brief instructions... its extremely simple. To date there are only 4 people who have had problems installing it (that have notified me)... 2 of them worked it out themselves and there are 2 left including yourself that have had installers fail on the installation.

Out of yours and the other fellows, no one has told me if they even tested the wires for continuity. We test them all before shipping them out, so it would be an extremely rare case of it somehow being defective... its an extremely basic product. if all 3 leads test positive for continuity (only takes a minute or two to test with a volt meter) then there is no way its a problem with the product.

You are definatly very welcome to send it back and have me look at it, but keep it mind it is only a wire with a plug on the end and the chances its bad are much more slim then the chances it was not correctly installed.

-Charles
Thanks Charles. I get to deal with doing continuity checks at work quite frequently so I know its no big deal to do so. I will have the shop check it and then go from there.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 05:32 PM
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there have been hundreds of vortech users including myself that have never installed a CAS without a single problem, if you damage your engine with a vortech, it will be from something else, and as far as i know there have only been maybe 2 people (if that may) damaging the engine with a vortech, and the reasons were known, either ring lands, or not pulling timing, running different pulleys, etc. heck, booger has upgraded his blower and running like 13psi, and im not sure even he has a CAS wire. of course his motor is forged now.

but i guess its good to be on the safe side.

btw have you been back to walker yet, let me know when you go, i can help with the tuning, and id like to see the car. i even have some z maps, good ones, that got around 400hp.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tig488
there have been hundreds of vortech users including myself that have never installed a CAS without a single problem, if you damage your engine with a vortech, it will be from something else, and as far as i know there have only been maybe 2 people (if that may) damaging the engine with a vortech, and the reasons were known, either ring lands, or not pulling timing, running different pulleys, etc. heck, booger has upgraded his blower and running like 13psi, and im not sure even he has a CAS wire. of course his motor is forged now.

but i guess its good to be on the safe side.

btw have you been back to walker yet, let me know when you go, i can help with the tuning, and id like to see the car. i even have some z maps, good ones, that got around 400hp.
I was there this past Thursday. I hope it will go tomorrow or Tuesday to be tuned. Call Autolabz, 205-943-7949 and ask for Clint. He did the install and should be doing the tuning as well. I am sure he as well as myself will appreciate any insight you can provide. I would love to see 410 or so HP or at least 400!
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Old May 23, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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I had CAS wire problems as well with my installer. Also the lean condition is from loading maps - apparently the tuner has to change settings to turn the aux fuel pump on after loading a new map.

BTW - tuned the car rich over 6,000 RPM and now have 401. Could have gone more but better safe then sorry.

Jeremy
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Old May 23, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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401wrhp with the stock pully?
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Old May 23, 2005 | 10:26 AM
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I had a Vortech installed on my stock car for 4000 miles and now my car eats oil. I removed it and sold it a few months back and now Im waiting to see if I can get a new motor from Nissan.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LeMans350z
I had CAS wire problems as well with my installer. Also the lean condition is from loading maps - apparently the tuner has to change settings to turn the aux fuel pump on after loading a new map.

BTW - tuned the car rich over 6,000 RPM and now have 401. Could have gone more but better safe then sorry.

Jeremy
Did you end up using the OEM CAS wire or the one from Charles? I am debating on whether or not to send it back to Charles and get a new one, if it is bad. I just think it is good to have that extra bit of security, especially over 400 RWHP which is what I am shooting for.

I wish you had posted this on Thursday!! The guy from Avalon told my installer the same thing as you are saying.
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