As I was re-writing the Turbocharger FAQ thread...I began to realize that there is no "concrete" suggestion on what part(s) are needed vs. a certain power level.

So i'm going to ask everyone, vendors included (though, don't tell us everything that Performance Motorsports uses is needed to run 380rwhp because i'm just going to assume it's a poor sales pitch ) what part(s) would you agree on are needed at a certain power level?

Upgraded Fuel Pump = 380rwhp or more?

Fuel Return System = ~400rwhp or more? or is it more like 420 or 440?

Fuel Injector Size = http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm

BOV = Below 575rwhp? Two BOVs for under 850rwhp? (probably can exclude APS on both, since it is included and should support that high, right Peter?)

Wastegate Spring = ??? Really have no idea on this one, don't understand how a boost controller and wastegate spring work (I know how a wastegate spring works, sort-of, don't understand how you can boost over the PSI at what the wastegate spring is rated at though)

Pistons = Just say, 550rwhp? We, I doubt, will ever really know since most people replace them with the rods just to save install cost.

Rods = 450rwhp?

Head and Main Studs = 550rwhp?

Closed-Deck Sleeves = 550rwhp or more on a daily driver? 650rwhp?

Pinned Sleeves = Pretty much any power level, not suggested for a daily driver though?

Does this cover most of it?

 

It has also been reported that the OEM exhaust valve guides are brittle and do not hold up well for the long term high heat abuse seen by FI. I personally upgraded to Ferrea guides jus to be safe, it only cost $300 if the heads are already torn down.

 

Sharif, Ernie, and I all went with tial .8 bar wastegate springs...this brings the baseline boost up to a liitle shy of 11psi (some boost loss via the intercooler)

The higher boost rated wastegate springs are simply stiffer springs that take more pressure until the relief valve opens on the wastegate, this in turn, allows more boost to build before the valve opens and vents additional pressure...

The mechanism of a boost controller can better be explained by sharif...but it will work more effeciently to reaching a 16psi level when the baseline is 11 psi instead of 5...

need some chiming in here, my brain is fried for today, it's been a long day of computer systems and crazy-a$$ technology


TODD

 

Well, that's what I was wondering, I talked to Charles and he said he is still using the stock wastegate springs and is at the power level he is at...

 

If the exhaust offers a higher backpressure , one would need to increase the spring stiffness inorder to obtian a similar boost level. In kind ,a freer exhaust takes some of the load off the actuator spring and hence a higher base psi can be obtained with a weaker spring..

 

yes with a borla i can get ROCK SOLID boost so far up to 14.5 i have been running it. A customers car started to get a little rocky around 16 psi with the dual HKS which is larger then my borla by just a little... at 16+ psi it has a brief momentary loss of boost where it falls to around 14.5-15 for about 300 rpm around 5000rpm, but then comes bakc up.

 

If someone was aiming to hit around 325rwhp on boost what would be recommened? Cooling upgrades, fuel, internals? I wanted to go for either an HKS SC or a detuned APS. Also, which is better for less stress on the motor, Single Turbo or Twin Turbo?

 

if you are looking for the ultimate in reliability, then an APS Twin Turbo system without the boost solenoid is your solution. The cast iron manifolds will out last your car, as where the single turbo kits will have eventual failure of the stock manifolds. The Greddy kit would be good for the HP your looking at, but the APS will be better since it already gives you a CAS wire upgrade, fuel pump and a MAP based tune (which you can add to the Greddy, but as time goes on I am realizing more and more that there are very few competent installers and tuners for this), and the Garrett GT turbos will out last the mitsubishi turbos almost every time.

EDIT: BTW the reason i said without the boost solenoid is because if you do not install that, then the turbos will generate the pressure that the actuator springs are set at, which is think is 6-7 psi.

 

I would recommend a Stillen supercharger kit for only 325rwhp. You can probably reach that with the stage 2, but definitely with the stage 3. It's a safe choice too, and inexpensive.

 

Greddy is pretty much out of the question for me right now... It's more of a "tuner" kit and I want something that comes with almost everything I need. Does the APS ST have a more "aggressive" dyno than a TT setup? Which has the more linear powerband?

As for the Stillen. I have been looking at it. I will try to have a pro and con review of most of the major setups done in a few weeks. However, Stillen is notorious for their shoddy customer service so I'm not sure I would want to go with them. Also that hood... But their engine warranty sounds nice.

 

The APS twin turbo system will easily produce the power you want with out any additional hardware upgrades, even if you want to retain the stock Nissan cats and exhaust system on 91 octane fuel.

As a general rule turbo charging is easier on the engine as the turbo charger has no parasitic loss like a supercharger.

To make the same/similar power at the wheels as a turbocharger system the supercharger system needs much higher power within the engine to produce similar power at the wheels ( at least 50 HP more).

Ultimately the supercharger draws more power from the crankshaft whereas the turbocharger does not as it's exhaust gas driven.

Hope this helps.

Peter

 

I assume you mean a more agressive state of engine tune, is that correct?

Both the APS single and twin turbo systems are complete with very safe tuning maps for 91 octane fuel, all good.

Thanks

Peter

 

Thanks for the reply. I will be running 93 octane all the time since it is readily available for me here in FL. You didn't answer one of my questions tho, in single vs. twin turbo would you recommend me to go with the TT if I want a more linear power gain or is there really no big difference, also is a TT less stressful on the motor since it "eases" into the power gain?

Finally, I have test pipes and a UR underdrive/lightweight pulley set, should I remove these when going FI? Will the Test Pipes raise the boost level?

 

So does everyone agree on what I stated? Anyone want to add to it/comment on something?

Also, i'm going to need some more things from you guy's. I PM'd some of you a while back about the Turbo FAQ...

What engine management options have been used on the 350Z?
HKS F-Con V-Pro Standalone Engine Management
Altered Atmosphere ECU Reflash
HKS F-Con S (included in the HKS S/C kit, not tunable)
Autronic SM2 Standalone Engine Management
Technosquare ECU Reflash
GReddy E-Manage Piggyback Engine Management
MoTeC M600
Vishnu/Xede Engine Management (I believe it's a piggyback, it may be a reflash though)

Any others?

Also, what never-used setups are available? I know AEM has the EMS in R&D but that isn't due out for a while.


What turbo kits are there?
Nizpro TT
GReddy TT
APS ST
APS TT
PE TT
Turbonetics ST
SSR-Engineering/Speed Force Racing TT
Velocity ST
STS ST
Jotech TT
JWT TT

Any others?

 

Since Peter got banned, i'll try to answer...

Honestly, I don't think you will notice a big difference between the two. I would recommend the APS TT if you are shooting for over 550rwhp, if not, the ST would be just fine. I don't really think a TT would be less stressful, not significant enough to tell a difference.

Depends, a few have seen the boost go up with using test pipes vs. stock cats, others haven't. And the UR underdrive pulley will be fine as it doesn't affect air or fuel.

 

Also, I was trying to find some specific numbers to use such as less than 380rwhp, 380-420rwhp, 420-450rwhp, 450-650rwhp, 650rwhp-700, 700-1000rwhp, 1000rwhp+. Does that look fine? That's the basic power numbers, IMO, that you would reference for parts. (example: 380-420rwhp = turbo kit, bov, fuel pump, engine management)

 

I think you should focus on what needed to break the all important 300whp barrier as this is a point in which people claim the stock fuel setup is no longer reliable and needs to be tuned and tweaked. This is why NA Zs are having difficulty getting much over 300whp. After that I would say what is needed for 350-400whp then 500whp. Anything above that well they are going in uncharted territory and at that point I think they wouldn't rely on what we say here.

 

Why did he get banned???

 

reavtek, I already have an N/A list, however, I don't really feel comfortable recommending certain parts publicly. I will send a PM to whoever is interested, but I won't post a thread about it. There are just too many N/A parts IMO.

Also, any evidence to back up someone passing 300rwhp? And, any evidence to back up the fuel system being inadequate? (dyno of a 300+rwhp N/A 350Z that is running lean from a lack of fuel pressure)

txtitan, look for the other threads about it.

 

K, thx