What are some of the 0-60 times with FI???
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Ok ok ok don't flame me for this question.
I was wondering what kind of 0-60 times people were getting with some of these FI options. I have seen the 1/4 times but was wondering about any 0-60 times.
I realize that 1/4 times is a key figure to have but what about 0-60?
I was wondering what kind of 0-60 times people were getting with some of these FI options. I have seen the 1/4 times but was wondering about any 0-60 times.
I realize that 1/4 times is a key figure to have but what about 0-60?
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Is that something that could be fixed with a LSD?
I thought I saw in some magazine that they had a s/c'ed Z do 0-60 in 4.9 ish...
Hmmmm traction due to weight? Add weight~~~>Increase traction?
I thought I saw in some magazine that they had a s/c'ed Z do 0-60 in 4.9 ish...
Hmmmm traction due to weight? Add weight~~~>Increase traction?
all the weigh is on the wrong side of the car
if the engine was in the rear, then adding a big heavy twin turbo kit would help you gain some traction.
As it is, when you add a FI kit, you're actually taking away traction because the weight is going to the front of the car. Sure you can offset it by lighting some parts up in the front and that works to a degree
It's a combination of the really gear ratios and the weight balance
when you see these cars that can do 3.5 sec 0-60, they have something really going for them like HUGE wide 345mm wide rear tires, or AWD, or rear engine, or transmission in the back, or solid rear axel, or better weight distribution for drag racing, but the main thing is they ALL have dramatically more conservative gear ratios. A really tall first gear helps you not have to shift in order to reach 60mph
the 350Z will never get great 0-60 times unless you use racing tires and/or use a different transmission - and I'd love for someone to prove me wrong.....
if the engine was in the rear, then adding a big heavy twin turbo kit would help you gain some traction.
As it is, when you add a FI kit, you're actually taking away traction because the weight is going to the front of the car. Sure you can offset it by lighting some parts up in the front and that works to a degree
It's a combination of the really gear ratios and the weight balance
when you see these cars that can do 3.5 sec 0-60, they have something really going for them like HUGE wide 345mm wide rear tires, or AWD, or rear engine, or transmission in the back, or solid rear axel, or better weight distribution for drag racing, but the main thing is they ALL have dramatically more conservative gear ratios. A really tall first gear helps you not have to shift in order to reach 60mph
the 350Z will never get great 0-60 times unless you use racing tires and/or use a different transmission - and I'd love for someone to prove me wrong.....
DR's and a 7100rpm redline is all you need for a sub 5 sec 0-60
Originally Posted by sentry65
the 350Z will never get great 0-60 times unless you use racing tires and/or use a different transmission - and I'd love for someone to prove me wrong.....
With a proper launch low(sub 5) 0-60 times are possible on a High hp 350Z. It is difficult due to the high gearing. 1st gear is close to useless once the power is really turned up.
Motor trend pulled a 4.6 0-60 with the Greddy 350Z back when it was only making 350rwhp on 19" street tires no less. The potential is there, you just need the skill to access it.
Here is the link to the article.
http://www.motortrend.com/features/p...50z/index.html
Motor trend pulled a 4.6 0-60 with the Greddy 350Z back when it was only making 350rwhp on 19" street tires no less. The potential is there, you just need the skill to access it.
Here is the link to the article.
http://www.motortrend.com/features/p...50z/index.html
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Ya know that's true with the tranny. Does anyone know of anyone that has done any tranny work besides replacements for grinding?
What could you swap in for the stock tranny?
What could you swap in for the stock tranny?
not sure what mine is but you tell me.
go here http://www.tinmanpage.com/Download.html right click on "0-120" and save
go here http://www.tinmanpage.com/Download.html right click on "0-120" and save
Originally Posted by Netko350Z
Ya know that's true with the tranny. Does anyone know of anyone that has done any tranny work besides replacements for grinding?
What could you swap in for the stock tranny?
What could you swap in for the stock tranny?
The easiest and most commonly used option for the stock gearing is to swap the factory manual rear end that has a 3.54 ratio to an automatic rear end that has a 3.3 ratio. The lower ratio extends the speed range of each gear and reduces torque at the rear wheel for easier launches. It is very easy to swap if you do the whole pumpkin at once.
I did my first run at the 1/8 last night with the new APS TT.
My ET's were not great because I didn't get traction till later but based on the 0-60 calculator I did the following:
ET 8.33 MPH 92.25 = 3.52 0 to 60
http://www.markviii.org/~nightsky/sixty.htm
My ET's were not great because I didn't get traction till later but based on the 0-60 calculator I did the following:
ET 8.33 MPH 92.25 = 3.52 0 to 60
http://www.markviii.org/~nightsky/sixty.htm
that calculator is not right. I believe the Gtech is a more accurate device. I've gotten a 4.30 0-60 with it. I've gotten a sub 8 second 1/8 mile before due to a good launch. And with the calculator that would make it a 3.3 or something which I know my car is not capable of. I hit 4.8's 4.699's with street tires.
The calculator is based on the simple formulas used to calculate 0 to 60's.
I don't know much about it so if you say it's wrong maybe it is...however what is 1000% NOT accurate is the Gtech that I can guarantee you.
Gtech is an estimaste at best and it does not consider rollouts correctly and it only would be somewhat accurate if you had the exact weight and such. Hell my gtech used to tell me I ran 13 seconds when in reality I ran 15's...
Sub 8 seconds should be 3.3's that sounds accurate.
I have a different question now: Ever since I got my Turbo my G-tech does no longer read my RPM's even after recalibrating. How did you get yours to work?
I don't know much about it so if you say it's wrong maybe it is...however what is 1000% NOT accurate is the Gtech that I can guarantee you.
Gtech is an estimaste at best and it does not consider rollouts correctly and it only would be somewhat accurate if you had the exact weight and such. Hell my gtech used to tell me I ran 13 seconds when in reality I ran 15's...
Sub 8 seconds should be 3.3's that sounds accurate.
I have a different question now: Ever since I got my Turbo my G-tech does no longer read my RPM's even after recalibrating. How did you get yours to work?
0-60 calculators are BS...
even 1/4 mile calculators are - but they're good references when comparing if your car loses some weight or gains some power, but won't account for traction, gearing, and drivetrain/rotaional mass
even 1/4 mile calculators are - but they're good references when comparing if your car loses some weight or gains some power, but won't account for traction, gearing, and drivetrain/rotaional mass
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Originally Posted by mrtomcat
The calculator is based on the simple formulas used to calculate 0 to 60's.
I don't know much about it so if you say it's wrong maybe it is...however what is 1000% NOT accurate is the Gtech that I can guarantee you.
Gtech is an estimaste at best and it does not consider rollouts correctly and it only would be somewhat accurate if you had the exact weight and such. Hell my gtech used to tell me I ran 13 seconds when in reality I ran 15's...
Sub 8 seconds should be 3.3's that sounds accurate.
I have a different question now: Ever since I got my Turbo my G-tech does no longer read my RPM's even after recalibrating. How did you get yours to work?
I don't know much about it so if you say it's wrong maybe it is...however what is 1000% NOT accurate is the Gtech that I can guarantee you.
Gtech is an estimaste at best and it does not consider rollouts correctly and it only would be somewhat accurate if you had the exact weight and such. Hell my gtech used to tell me I ran 13 seconds when in reality I ran 15's...
Sub 8 seconds should be 3.3's that sounds accurate.
I have a different question now: Ever since I got my Turbo my G-tech does no longer read my RPM's even after recalibrating. How did you get yours to work?
I used the old G-tech so it never had to calculate RPM's that I know of. I know its not 100% accurate but I think those 1/4 mile calculators are way off. I mean, how can my car do a 3 something second 0-60 without slicks or all wheel drive. It just doesn't seem realistic.




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