Turbonetics questions/concerns
Originally Posted by Phatmitzu
Mine goes to ~10.4:1 for some reason. May that be one of the reason for my misfire code? Does Turbonetics have inhouse dyno to get my reflash adjusted?
yikes lol not really want I wanted to see. What kind of code is it? Random Multiple Misfire? Does it single out a cylinder?, is it a rich code? or are there any other codes thrown with it?
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
If a cop can tell that its fake by looking under the car without getting it in the air and checking it out up close he deserves a promotion...
Originally Posted by foochdawg
yikes lol not really want I wanted to see. What kind of code is it? Random Multiple Misfire? Does it single out a cylinder?, is it a rich code? or are there any other codes thrown with it?
Originally Posted by foochdawg
It's not the cop I am worried about with my loud *** old car I never got hassled or anything. It is the inspection mechanic that worries me.
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
They do have an in house dyno but typically dont do end user tuning...didn't you install 440 cc injectors on yours? If not are you sure the fuel pressure regulator was modified correctly? What it is your idle fuel pressure?
), so I want to run the stock kit for a month or so to have all the bugs fixed, and dyno it before I starting adding more upgrades to it. I want to have a before/after dyno comparison. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge, the AAM return system have one...but like I said, not installed yet.
I suspect Im running too rich cuz other than by the wideband, my exhaust is carbing up with black goo on its tips...
How can I tell if the FP regulator is modded correctly? visually.
Yeah I know all about that code lol. And I expect it but I don't want it to be like my old car. This is what happened with my old car(2001 Eclipse GT):
I installed the kit myself with my father(mechanic) and we were turning the crank to get to TDC. (We believe this is how it happened) we passed TDC by a SLIGHT bit. It says never to turn the crank the wrong way but it was such a small movement we did it. This is when the crank angle sensor plate sheered.
This thing has a sensor behind it that reads through a hole. It counts the teeth on the crank gear to find timing. Mainly looks for a mark or tooth that is different that allows the sensor to know when TDC occurs. Since the plate sheered it shifted and was reading timing off. It was firing the plugs and injectors at the wrong times. We couldn't figure out what was wrong.
It was off by so little that we were able to get it to run and hold the gas to keep it running. Since the timing was off though. The exhaust valves were opening too early or late and A LOT of heat was excaping the heads. We had the headers glowing BRIGHT red. This fried all 4 O2s, didn't know at the time.
We flatbedded it 7 hours to staten island to get the creators of the kit to find the problem. We all thought that it was timing the way the engine bucked when it cut off. They checked timing and found no problem. So I left it with them for a week and from back to Erie. They called me and said they found the problem and that they had MISSED the problem before when they checked timing but still charged me for all the other crap they checked AFTER they missed it the first time. I came out with a $3,800 bill which was more than I paid for the damn kti!
So we got the issue fixed finally and I would get P300 codes DAILY along with every other day 1 single cylinder would do it enough to throw a P302 or P304. I also threw rich codes(rich bank 1 or rich bank 2). I didn't know why. I tested the O2s and they were all reading a little high. The computer interprited this as a lean condition and was dumping WAY too much fuel. Then injector number 4 failed on me and I lost a cylinder. Just a big pain in the ***. I just ended up putting it back to stock and selling it.
That car ate so much money. Hell still paying on the damn shop that looked at it. I don't want to go through that hell again lol.
I installed the kit myself with my father(mechanic) and we were turning the crank to get to TDC. (We believe this is how it happened) we passed TDC by a SLIGHT bit. It says never to turn the crank the wrong way but it was such a small movement we did it. This is when the crank angle sensor plate sheered.
This thing has a sensor behind it that reads through a hole. It counts the teeth on the crank gear to find timing. Mainly looks for a mark or tooth that is different that allows the sensor to know when TDC occurs. Since the plate sheered it shifted and was reading timing off. It was firing the plugs and injectors at the wrong times. We couldn't figure out what was wrong.
It was off by so little that we were able to get it to run and hold the gas to keep it running. Since the timing was off though. The exhaust valves were opening too early or late and A LOT of heat was excaping the heads. We had the headers glowing BRIGHT red. This fried all 4 O2s, didn't know at the time.
We flatbedded it 7 hours to staten island to get the creators of the kit to find the problem. We all thought that it was timing the way the engine bucked when it cut off. They checked timing and found no problem. So I left it with them for a week and from back to Erie. They called me and said they found the problem and that they had MISSED the problem before when they checked timing but still charged me for all the other crap they checked AFTER they missed it the first time. I came out with a $3,800 bill which was more than I paid for the damn kti!
So we got the issue fixed finally and I would get P300 codes DAILY along with every other day 1 single cylinder would do it enough to throw a P302 or P304. I also threw rich codes(rich bank 1 or rich bank 2). I didn't know why. I tested the O2s and they were all reading a little high. The computer interprited this as a lean condition and was dumping WAY too much fuel. Then injector number 4 failed on me and I lost a cylinder. Just a big pain in the ***. I just ended up putting it back to stock and selling it.
That car ate so much money. Hell still paying on the damn shop that looked at it. I don't want to go through that hell again lol.
Last edited by foochdawg; Oct 20, 2005 at 10:29 AM.
Originally Posted by Phatmitzu
Not yet. I was going to install the 440cc with the AAM fuel return system. I just installed the kit last week(damn, the rush is b!tching! ), so I want to run the stock kit for a month or so to have all the bugs fixed, and dyno it before I starting adding more upgrades to it. I want to have a before/after dyno comparison.
I dont have a fuel pressure gauge, the AAM return system have one...but like I said, not installed yet.
I suspect Im running too rich cuz other than by the wideband, my exhaust is carbing up with black goo on its tips...
How can I tell if the FP regulator is modded correctly? visually.
), so I want to run the stock kit for a month or so to have all the bugs fixed, and dyno it before I starting adding more upgrades to it. I want to have a before/after dyno comparison. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge, the AAM return system have one...but like I said, not installed yet.
I suspect Im running too rich cuz other than by the wideband, my exhaust is carbing up with black goo on its tips...
How can I tell if the FP regulator is modded correctly? visually.
well it sounds like the root of your problems stemmed from turning the crank...this in no way shape or form needs to be done on this car to install this kit. The 0300 is likely to happen and there are some 05 350Zs that throw that code BONE STOCK just by driving it hard. What you described below is a very uncommon event and unless you decide to spin the crank on this car by hand for no reason other then to do it I don't forsee that happening..
Originally Posted by foochdawg
Yeah I know all about that code lol. And I expect it but I don't want it to be like my old car. This is what happened with my old car(2001 Eclipse GT):
I installed the kit myself with my father(mechanic) and we were turning the crank to get to TDC. (We believe this is how it happened) we passed TDC by a SLIGHT bit. It says never to turn the crank the wrong way but it was such a small movedment we did it. This is when the crank angle sensor plate sheered. This thing has a sensor behind it that reads through a hole. It counts the teeth on the crank gear to find timing. Mainly looks for a mark or tooth that is different that allows the sensor to know when TDC occurs. Since the plate sheered it shifted and was reading timing off. It was firing the plugs and injectors at the wrong times. We couldn't figure out what was wrong. It was off by so little that we were able to get it to run and hold the gas to keep it running. Since the timing was off though. The exhaust valves were opening too early or late and A LOT of heat was excaping the heads. We had the headers glowing BRIGHT red. This fried all 4 O2s, didn't know at the time. We flatbedded it 7 hours to staten island to get the creators of the kit to find the problem. We all thought that it was timing the way the engine bucked when it cut off. They checked timing and found no problem. So I left it with them for a week and from back to Erie. They called me and said they found the problem and that they had MISSED the problem before when they checked timing but till charged me for all the other crap they checked AFTER they missed it the first time. I came out with a $3,800 bill which was more than I paid for the damn kti! So we got the issue fixed finally and I would get P300 codes DAILY along with every other day 1 single cylinder would do it enough to throw a P302 or P304. I also threw rich codes(rich bank 1 or rich bank 2). I didn't know why. I tested the O2s and they were all reading a little high. The computer interprited this as a lean condition and was dumping WAY too much fuel. Then injector number 4 failed on me and I lost a cylinder. Just a big pain in the ***. I just ended up putting it back to stock and selling it. That car ate so much money. Hell still paying on the damn shop that looked at it. I don't want to go through that hell again lol.
I installed the kit myself with my father(mechanic) and we were turning the crank to get to TDC. (We believe this is how it happened) we passed TDC by a SLIGHT bit. It says never to turn the crank the wrong way but it was such a small movedment we did it. This is when the crank angle sensor plate sheered. This thing has a sensor behind it that reads through a hole. It counts the teeth on the crank gear to find timing. Mainly looks for a mark or tooth that is different that allows the sensor to know when TDC occurs. Since the plate sheered it shifted and was reading timing off. It was firing the plugs and injectors at the wrong times. We couldn't figure out what was wrong. It was off by so little that we were able to get it to run and hold the gas to keep it running. Since the timing was off though. The exhaust valves were opening too early or late and A LOT of heat was excaping the heads. We had the headers glowing BRIGHT red. This fried all 4 O2s, didn't know at the time. We flatbedded it 7 hours to staten island to get the creators of the kit to find the problem. We all thought that it was timing the way the engine bucked when it cut off. They checked timing and found no problem. So I left it with them for a week and from back to Erie. They called me and said they found the problem and that they had MISSED the problem before when they checked timing but till charged me for all the other crap they checked AFTER they missed it the first time. I came out with a $3,800 bill which was more than I paid for the damn kti! So we got the issue fixed finally and I would get P300 codes DAILY along with every other day 1 single cylinder would do it enough to throw a P302 or P304. I also threw rich codes(rich bank 1 or rich bank 2). I didn't know why. I tested the O2s and they were all reading a little high. The computer interprited this as a lean condition and was dumping WAY too much fuel. Then injector number 4 failed on me and I lost a cylinder. Just a big pain in the ***. I just ended up putting it back to stock and selling it. That car ate so much money. Hell still paying on the damn shop that looked at it. I don't want to go through that hell again lol.
Yeah I am not saying it will happen with this kit at all. The reason we were even turning the crank was because we were doing 60,000 mile maintenance(timing belt change). I am just saying with close tolerances a VERY small issue could escalate into a lot and I don't want to deal with that again lol. Thank god for the timing CHAIN in the Z lol.
I am just saying that I understand the codes. I dealt with them every single day. Had my own code reader for my car to clear them every time I started the car. Sucked that it was a routine I had to deal with. Once a month I could deal with but 1 to 2 times a day? I feared my engine wasn't going to last long. I have HORRIBLE luck. I usually end up ordering everything twice because damage in shipping, wrong product, never worked, etc. Like that injector failing. That sucked. And I install it myself because every single time I have EVER handed my keys to anyone, something happens to my car, like scratches.
I went to get a kit painted on the eclipse and while it was in the parking lot the heat from the sun and my tint shattered the back window...no reason...just shattered. Then the mechanic dropped my keys and broke my only car alarm remote. And the paint on the bumper cracked within a week due to not enough flex aditive lol. They are a really good shop though. They replaced the window, tint on that window, remote, and repainted the car all for free. They should have but they didn't make an issue out of it or anything, real nice about it. He said I can't come back again lol
I am just saying that I understand the codes. I dealt with them every single day. Had my own code reader for my car to clear them every time I started the car. Sucked that it was a routine I had to deal with. Once a month I could deal with but 1 to 2 times a day? I feared my engine wasn't going to last long. I have HORRIBLE luck. I usually end up ordering everything twice because damage in shipping, wrong product, never worked, etc. Like that injector failing. That sucked. And I install it myself because every single time I have EVER handed my keys to anyone, something happens to my car, like scratches.
I went to get a kit painted on the eclipse and while it was in the parking lot the heat from the sun and my tint shattered the back window...no reason...just shattered. Then the mechanic dropped my keys and broke my only car alarm remote. And the paint on the bumper cracked within a week due to not enough flex aditive lol. They are a really good shop though. They replaced the window, tint on that window, remote, and repainted the car all for free. They should have but they didn't make an issue out of it or anything, real nice about it. He said I can't come back again lol
MIA, I just installed my fuel pressure gauge and at idle it's more than 53 psi. Here is the picture of it. Hope you can see it It's more like 57 or 58 psi.
Sorry to hi-jack your thread foochdawg.
It's more like 57 or 58 psi.Sorry to hi-jack your thread foochdawg.
Originally Posted by Z PHAT Z
MIA, I just installed my fuel pressure gauge and at idle it's more than 53 psi. Here is the picture of it. Hope you can see it It's more like 57 or 58 psi.
Sorry to hi-jack your thread foochdawg.
It's more like 57 or 58 psi.Sorry to hi-jack your thread foochdawg.
Originally Posted by Z PHAT Z
Mia
I hooked to the stock fuel regulator ( or whatever you call it ) on the left of the plenum toward the back side. Hope you know what i'm describing. Thanks.
I hooked to the stock fuel regulator ( or whatever you call it ) on the left of the plenum toward the back side. Hope you know what i'm describing. Thanks.
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
Well there really is no way to tell unless you pull the entire fuel pump assembly out and look at the FPR and make sure it was drilled out correctly...Honestly the easiest way to tell is just to measure fuel pressure. You should be at 53 PSI at idle. The kit is designed to be OVERLY safe so its not uncommon to have a black exhaust with this kit. Do you have any dyno numbers? How much boost is being made at WOT?
No dyno numbers yet. Next week maybe, after I fix my exhaust leak.
~8.5psi. 8.7psi is the highest I've seen.
Originally Posted by Phatmitzu
I see.
No dyno numbers yet. Next week maybe, after I fix my exhaust leak.
~8.5psi. 8.7psi is the highest I've seen.
No dyno numbers yet. Next week maybe, after I fix my exhaust leak.
~8.5psi. 8.7psi is the highest I've seen.
Originally Posted by foochdawg
1.) is there a flash for an '05 6-speed?
2.) I would think that the heat under the hood would be VERY bad and detrimental to things expecially if you had a fiberglass bumper or CF hood..
3.) I have heard of bad flashes happening from technosquare. Would this cause a blown engine?
2.) I would think that the heat under the hood would be VERY bad and detrimental to things expecially if you had a fiberglass bumper or CF hood..
3.) I have heard of bad flashes happening from technosquare. Would this cause a blown engine?
Also I have said this before and will say it again... Get the TUNER VERSION of the Turbonetics Single Turbo Kit. Pick up the Walboro Fuel Pump, your choice injectors along with either the Turbo XS UTEC or the Greddy E-Manage Ultimate for engine/fuel management. Then if you really want a cat, just order the cat piece through like Altered Altmosphere (just give them the part number).
Tuner version is cheaper of course since you cut out the fuel/engine managment that is in the standered kit... But to me this is the best ideal way to have a good overall kit.
