Hey u Vortech Guys. Hit the Dyno again today ---Runnin Alphawerks,Test Pipes,Borla, 3.12 Pulley, Motordyne Spacer----6 sp. JWT F/W, Copper Cores,
Fuel Press runs 50 and spikes @ 60---I have the SplitSec software. A/F runnin fairly straight @12.5-11.5 till 5600RPM then dives to 10. 5800 it comes back up to 11.5 at redline. 357.8 HP at 331.3 torque. All clamps are tite, Filter could use a cleanin but think I will replace with a larger unit with replumb to ease with cleaning- There was little diff in boost 3.33 - 3.12 ---Would like some input before I spend another 80.00 for the next smaller. All input would be greatly appresiated ---I dont want to invent the wheel twice!

 

So what exactly is the problem your having?

 

How much boost did you have before the pulley change ? and how much after ?

And did you use the same Dyno as before ?

 

yeah we need more info

 

Boost was under 6 before and after pulley change--Fact is --before HP was 331 but now with Headers,Spacer,Pulley,Test pipes I gained that 30 + HP But seems to me I should be able to get boost up to 8PSI or so--Correct me if Im heading in the wrong direction but that seems feasible

 

you should check your belt tension and see if its slipping at all. Thats the first thing i would check

 

Ya Booger --Same Dyno --Same Operator, FIRST 81 degrees,28.41 BP.,23% Humid----SECOND 59 degrees,27.63 BP.,30% Humid

 

Belts tite--No connection leaks

 

Belts would be the first thing to check . What most dont realize is that the Crawford plenum isnt flat and unless you add one or two extra gaskets , it leaks under boost . I had to put preasure in my whole system to find this out. I'm running 3 gaskets right now

 

Well Im running the MotorDyne spacer-But properly torqued --Clean surfaces but worth considering ---Will tell ya this ---Im running a clean 21 in of Vacuum

 

how many threads does your bov have showing? sometimes if the spring is too loose it could leak too...

 

Sorry...Must have read JDM3fiddyZ 's Sig instead of yours . Thought you had the Crawford on .
Putting preasure in the system is about the only way to tell if you have a leak any where . Once you do that and you know the belts are tight enough . You would start looking at the blower as the problem .
You need to cap off the exhaust , then break the IC pipe right before the BOV . Fabricate a pipe with a air hose hook up on the end of it . And clamp it to the IC pipe you took apart . Set your air compressor to about 20 to 25psi . Once the system fills , you will hear any leaks

 

Check the vacuum/boost reference line going to the BOV for any kinks. We had a kink in one on the dyno and it would push the BOV open since there was no positive pressure coming in to the top of the BOV to assist the spring in holding it closed.

 

Im gettin some good imput here ---I will read up on my POV tonight --and test the system also -- Cuz ---correct me if im wrong -- the 3.33 to 3.12 should in its self made a diff. Something is not right.--With lack of experience on the Vortech -- Im at a disadvantge --Iv installed several Turbos so I know what to expect --I wanted the S/C mainly for the comparrison ---There is a constant release noise on mine from the BOV---It actually hisses going down the rd.

 

the bov should have maybe 6-7 threads showing, too tight and it flutters, too loose and it could let boost leak

 

And Madboost --- I lived in Altamonte Springs for a number of yrs

 

The BOV is venting all the time , untill you get on it and vacuum drops and you start to build boost . You hear a whistle from it when venting . This isnt a normal BOV....its a bypass BOV

 

Well Booger --- Jdm and ya"all Puttin together new intake,,,90 degrees and larger filter ---But also tiightenned belt a tad more ---But main thing is I has 9 threads showing on my BOV --Took it down to 7 ---- What with keepin eyes on tach,boost and cops---Lookin like Im pushin 9 LBs + -Prob need to back off a hair. Im building a new 3240 sq ft shop so I have a lot on my plate, Im prime contracting it and since I lost my lease last week on the old one, I working in the Grass But seems like we are makin headway ---Thanx---------Bob

 

You could probably go down to 4, 5 or 6 threads on the BOV. This has nothing to do with top end boost but rather the point at which boost just starts to build. In other words, it gives the engine more ***** when just starting to put the pedal down. Your boost gauge should read around -4 mm Hg of vacuum when the whistle from the BOV stops. Adjust your threads to get to right around there. Any lower (that is, -5 or -6 and beyond) and you might start to get flutter when engine braking--very bad for the blower. Higher and you're wasting lower end power. Your top end boost is totally determined by the pulley and can't be adjusted. If you're worried about 9 lbs, just don't go so close to redline. The BOV has nothing to do with this on a supercharger.

When the BOV whistle starts to drive you crazy, as it did for me, you can put a length of hose on the BOV outlet and cap it off with a specific K&N filter. Works like a charm and has no effect on power.

 

Anyone have any comments? Just got back from town, Drivability is better with the 7 thread But takin it easy
Wont hit the dyno again till after the Holidays --also by that time I'll have the new intake plumbed and do a pressure test as outlined by Bogger. As per gersteinp's input drivability WOULD seem better. Later today I will take a run and watch negative/positive points. Thx Ya' all