UTEC+Open loop boost control=Good times.
 

We got the open loop boost control working on the UTEC utilizing the APS Solenoid form their boost control. It was something we wanted to do for a while and just got around to doing it:icon38: So now with the addition of an inexpensive Boost Control Solonoid, you can have the UTEC control a complete boost,timing and fuel map!!This eliminates the need for an expensive boost controler and gives you the simplicity of being able to store multiple maps in the UTEC and switch them on the fly...So for exmaple you will be able to store up to 5 different maps complete with boost settings, that you can switch between on the fly!!! Lets say you want to run one 9psi map for 93 octane on the street,now one at 9psi with less timing for the summer,or one for the winter oxigenated gasoline mix we get, or one for 13-15 psi for the race track..No problem!!
We will be doing some more road testing, but we were halted due to the weather..We did manage to mantain and hold 9psi using the UTEC open loop boost control feature.We were also able to produce a faste spool up playing with the Boost Control Gain feature in the user constants menu..We will be dyno tuning several maps this week and I will post the results.I just wanted to let everyone know, save your money on those fancy boost controlers:D



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Wooopie !!!!

Respect
JET

I am SO getting one now, haha. I already have the APS solenoid!

What about the closed loop control? Does that work also?

Same thing,except the closed loop uses a different input # 0-500, where as the open loop utilizes percetage of the BCS duty cycle..

but you cant make adjustments to the boost on the fly, you still need some kind of controller for that, say you go to the track and want to play with the boost, or whatnot, unless you have a laptop hooked up, you have to stay with what ever boost the UTEC is set at, correct?

If you have a Utec you should have a laptop as well.

yeah but clearly thats the advantage of an EBC versus UTec boost control. However, the launch control and no-lift-to-shift features will only exist if you use the UTEC boost control so its a trade off in my view.

They sell a switch that mounts remotely that will allow you to switch internal maps on the fly from the switch. This will only allow you to switch maps, to modify maps or boost settings you need a lap top..

that wasnt the point, i use a laptop to tune and play with my car, but its a little difficult to drive AND work on a laptop especially if youre flying down the freeway, unless you have a passenger. i just meant that its easier to adjust boost alone with an EBC. dont get me wrong this is an excellent thing you got going, but if i want to increase the boost say 1-2psi, i dont want to change the entire maps.

Why would you want to adjust boost independant of fuel and timing?????? Doesn't make sense to me what you are trying to do.

Respect
JET

with me using the UNICHIP, its running pretty rich, and pulling a lot of timing, at full boost its running ~10.5 AFR, i can turn the boost up a few psi and it doesnt bother anything, just gives me a little more power. im not talking about 5-10psi, maybe 2 or so.

Right, and if you know what your doing with the utec, you simply highlight the entire block of the boost map you want to change and add a value to the entire block..Or you could simply store you 1psi higher map in the UTEC in map position #1-5 and switch it on the fly..I really dont understand why you would not want this feature and opt for a seperate boost controller..It really is simple and has worked on the WRX's for over 5 years now..If you read the manual you will get an idea of how it works, its really easy..

But if you have a Utec and you're at the track why not just hook up the laptop between runs? Or you could just switch to a map with more boost. Lets say that you have your everyday map(safe map) with x amount of boost. Then you could have another map that has x plus say 2psi for those race situations.

youre taking it the wrong way, like i said its great, but shouldnt replace a quality boost controller IMHO. its just easier to reach up with my finger and hit a button while driving, than working on a laptop. now for high hp cars on built motors running boost in the mid-teens, and flowing tons of fuel, i do see a place for it.

and yes, i agree with using a laptop between runs. but everyday situations, when you arent at track laptops are completely useless. say youre driving down the road, with a low boost setting, and a car pulls up beside you wanting to run, are you gonna say, "hold on while i pull my laptop out, or better yet lets pull over so i can do some adjustments".

nope!!

That is not a good method..Raising boost without tunning properly for it is asking for trouble..You really have no control over any of the parameters the Uni-chip controls at that point, which is bad...Just because your A/F ratio is rich does not mean you will not detonate...80% of the time detonation is caused by timing. By raising boost alone and without adjusting the maps within the uni-chip you have no clue what conditions you are subjecting your motor to.

No, my car is tuned for my mods so it wouldn't be an issue. Or if I wanted to, i could fill up with 100 octane and use the map switch to change to my 100 octane map.

I don't understand why you would want to change your boost on the fly.

And your taking the wrong approach to tuning,no offense intended.Your suggesting simply adding more boost via an external boost controller that has ZERO control over changing the timing and fueling maps. The UTEC with a BCS and mapped properly would be as easy as reaching up and changing the map with your finger via a switch.The only different between my method and yours is my method is safe, being that the boost map within the UTEC will be tuned for it..Your raising the boost alone independantly of changing the A/F and timing is simply crossing your fingers and hoping for the best..IMO..

how much fuel and timing should be adjusted for say, 2 psi? what more can be done when youre injectors duty cycle is almost maxed out, and considerable timing is already being pulled, nothing.

once again, like i said earlier, this is a great accomplishment, i myself have been looking into buying the UTEC, but on a stock motor, running less than 10 psi, safely, with the UNICHIP, and having the ability with an EBC, to up the boost a few psi occasionally, another $1200 dollars can be spent elsewhere, like saving up for my new motor build ;)!

What more can be done?Alot.. Lets say your current tune pulls timing in certain spots, such as 5500-6000rpms..Now you go and simply turn up the boost 2 psi, which may cause you to make 2 more psi of boost from 3000-5000rpms, where your timing is more aggressive and your making peak TQ.Now what?Ill tell you what, youll be posting up "another blown motor" thread.. I honestly dont know what your trying to accomplish,but simply turning up the boost without proper tuning is BAD..
Seriously, if your injector duty cycle is almost maxed out, you have no business turning up the boost..Im telling you, your just asking to blow your motor..
Now Im not trying to offend you, but I am trying to stress to you the importance of understanding what your doing and why your doing it..Then decide what the safest approach to achieve your goals.
Do not take offense,but what you are suggesting makes no sence and is pretty dangerous.:eek: