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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 04:31 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by atar350
Well just bring out 4 CS Z's, so when they kick out Bri for running a ridiculous time, Ill just slap my number on his car, run it again, get kicked out, and so on....haha.
Good call bro...
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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 04:35 PM
  #102  
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Sounds about right....I'm just basing the 1/4 mile time off car hp and weight and trap speed...I'm keeping it a street car so I'm not going all out..I'll make a pass or 2 to see what I can do then get kicked out....also our cars or bad from a dig due to the irs...so I will run from a lot of 40mhp rolls...I don't want to break my tranny and axels all the time going from a stop..
Originally Posted by scotts300
Hopefully we'll see one of these "700RWHP+" cars go down the 1320'! Enough talk about 9s and 10s, let's see it!

I'll assume that you know the NHRA rules and regs for "fast" cars? If not, enjoy the read and start planning your cage and roll bar set-up:

SS

NHRA Rulebook
4:10 ROLL BARS
Mandatory in all cars running 11.49 or quicker, or per Class
Requirements. All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear or side of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position, and be at least as wide as the driver’s shoulders or within 1 inch of the driver’s door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or crossbraced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5 inches from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to main hoop. Sidebar must be included on driver’s side and must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulderharness attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar. All vehicles with OEM frame (i.e., pickup truck where body bolts to framerails) must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame. Installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame; therefore, it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded completely. All 4130 chrome moly tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process.Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver’s helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.


4:11 ROLL CAGE
Mandatory in all cars running quicker than 10.99 seconds or faster than 135 mph, or per Class Requirements. Cars with unaltered firewall, floor, and body (from firewall rearward, wheeltubs permitted) running between 10.00 and 10.99, roll bar permitted in place of roll cage, or per Class Requirements.
All cage structures must be designed in an attempt to protect the driver from any angle, 360 degrees. All 4130 chrome moly (CM)tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel (MS) tube welding must be approved MIG wire feed or TIG heliarc process.Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. Additionally, roll cage must be padded anywhere the driver’s helmet may contact it while in the driving position. See illustrations on page 87. With driver in driving position, helmet must be in front of main hoop. If helmet is behind or under main hoop, additional tubing,same size and thickness as roll cage, must be added to protect driver. Main hoop may be laid back or forward, but driver must be encapsulated within the required roll-cage components. On unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted), the roll cage may be bolted or welded to the floor/rocker box via 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates similar to the roll bar attachment requirements of paragraph 4:10, page 74. Unless attaching to OEM floor or frame, the minimum requirements for a frame member to which a roll-cage member is attached are 1 5/8- inch x .118-inch MS or .083-inch CM round and/or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular. All cage structures must have in their construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above, the driver’s shoulders, or to side bar. All required rear braces must be installed at a minimum angle of 30 degrees from vertical and
must be welded in. Side bar must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. Unless an OEM framerail is located below and outside of driver’s legs, a rocker or sill bar, minimum 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS
or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058-inch CM or MS rectangular, is mandatory in any car with a modified floor or rocker box within the roll-cage uprights (excluding 6 square feet of transmission maintenance opening). Rocker bar must be installed below and outside of driver’s legs and must tie into the main hoop, the forward hoop, frame, frame extension, or side diagonal. Rocker bar may not tie into swing-out
side bar support. If rocker bar ties into side diagonal more than 5 inches (edge to edge) from forward roll-cage support or main hoop, a 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS brace/gusset is mandatory between the diagonal and forward roll-cage support or main hoop. Swing-out side bar permitted on OEM full-bodied car, 8.50 e.t. and slower. The following requirements (a through d) apply:a. 1 5/8-inch O.D. x .083-inch CM or .118-inch MS minimum.Bolts/pins must be 3/8-inch-diameter steel, minimum and in double shear at both ends.
b. Male or female clevis(es) permitted. Male clevis must use two minimum 1/8-inch-thick brackets (CM or MS) welded to each roll-cage upright; female must use minimum 1/4-inch-thick bracket (CM or MS) welded to each roll-cage upright. Pins must be within 8 inches of the vertical portion of both the forward and main hoops. A half-cup backing device must be welded to the vertical portion of the main hoop (inward side) or the upper end of the swing-out bar (outward side), minimum .118-inch wall (CM or MS) extending at least 1 5/8 inches past the center of the pins. A clevis assembly using a minimum .350-inch-thick male component and two minimum .175-inch-thick female components may use a 1/2-inch-diameter Grade 5 bolt and does not require a half-cup backing device. c. Sliding sleeves of 1 3/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS, with minimum 2-inch engagement, are permitted in lieu of the upper pin/cup. d. All bolt/pin holes in the swing-out bar must have at least one hole diameter of material around the outside of the hole. On all cars requiring a roll cage, if the OEM firewall has been modified (in excess of 1 square foot for transmission removal, not including bolted-in components), a lower windshield or dash bar of 1 1/4 x .058-inch 4130 chrome moly or 1 1/4 x .118-inch mild steel
is mandatory for connecting the forward cage supports.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:10 PM
  #103  
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YO YO MA Update car is taking longer than expected due to waiting for parts...I'm getting mad
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:14 PM
  #104  
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HAHAHAHA bro it will be worth the wait.
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by bigbri
YO YO MA Update car is taking longer than expected due to waiting for parts...I'm getting mad
Isn't waiting an unavoidable part of the "build process"!
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:01 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by G352NV
HAHAHAHA bro it will be worth the wait.
Thanks bro... Can't wait to hear that exhaust on your car..
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Old Mar 26, 2006 | 09:01 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by calimarc
Isn't waiting an unavoidable part of the "build process"!
Yea...How is your car running??
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 06:18 AM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by bigbri
Yea...How is your car running??
Running good..getting oil changes every 2500 miles and keeping an eye out for any leaks! I think I might be over boosting a bit so I am keeping an eye on that. I hope to be down at Scott Performance in the mid part of April. They need to fix ( of all things ) a water leak into the cabin of my car on the pasenger side where they got into the dash during install. Every time I wash my car I get this little cascading "water fall" onto the floor board. I like water falls ...you know the sound of running water kind of promotes serenity...but not in you Z. I'll give em another shot at fixing it
All in all I have to say I am very happy with my car. I feel Ted made my initial problems I experienced right by my retune for 13 psi. I'm also looking into building and the options there in. Can't say I'm looking for the big 700 rwhp though

Last edited by calimarc; Mar 27, 2006 at 06:27 AM.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 07:07 AM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by calimarc
They need to fix ( of all things ) a water leak into the cabin of my car on the pasenger side where they got into the dash during install. Every time I wash my car I get this little cascading "water fall" onto the floor board.
I had the same problem. The water was coming in through the engine harness where it comes into the car to connect to the ECU. Take off your batter cover and windshield cover underneath your windshield wiper and you will see the ruber groumet. Buy some silicon and and seal it up.
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 09:56 AM
  #110  
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Default Very true...

Originally Posted by bigbri
Sounds about right....I'm just basing the 1/4 mile time off car hp and weight and trap speed...I'm keeping it a street car so I'm not going all out..I'll make a pass or 2 to see what I can do then get kicked out....also our cars or bad from a dig due to the irs...so I will run from a lot of 40mhp rolls...I don't want to break my tranny and axels all the time going from a stop..
Tranny and axle breaking is not fun...
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Old Mar 27, 2006 | 10:31 AM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
Tranny and axle breaking is not fun...
X 1000
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 04:04 PM
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Updates?
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 05:07 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
I had the same problem. The water was coming in through the engine harness where it comes into the car to connect to the ECU. Take off your batter cover and windshield cover underneath your windshield wiper and you will see the ruber groumet. Buy some silicon and and seal it up.
Yep, count me in as the third person who had this problem. I did the exact same thing you did. It took just a couple minutes to pull all of the panels off and actually find the leak.
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Old Apr 7, 2006 | 09:22 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by G352NV
Updates?
Yea...I get my car in a week man...I can't wait...this S H I T took to long...I'm having Z withdrawls....
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 12:35 AM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by bigbri
Yea...I get my car in a week man...I can't wait...this S H I T took to long...I'm having Z withdrawls....
Hell...might as well let them have the car until this weather clears up! You picked the perfect time to build. Our cars are useless in this crap!
I want to come down to check out your car sometime!!
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 01:42 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by calimarc
Hell...might as well let them have the car until this weather clears up! You picked the perfect time to build. Our cars are useless in this crap!
I want to come down to check out your car sometime!!
Amen to that....We'll make another vid soon..
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by bigbri
Yea...I get my car in a week man...I can't wait...this S H I T took to long...I'm having Z withdrawls....
That's nothin....try waiting 7 months for a routine motor build/turbo install
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bigbri
Amen to that....We'll make another vid soon..
Sounds good
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Old Apr 8, 2006 | 05:59 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
That's nothin....try waiting 7 months for a routine motor build/turbo install
Damn what happened??
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Old Apr 11, 2006 | 06:07 PM
  #120  
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Update...build is going good.......But having problem fitting Velside V1 Carbon Fiber front lip..anyone have any tips..???
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