I finally got a base map downloaded in to my UTEC. The shop that is doing the tuning was supposed to tune it Friday, but they had some things come up and couldn't get to it. I had a 'base' map so I went ahead and downloaded it.

My car, ('04 G35 coupe, 8.6:1CR, APS TT, 650cc injectors, JWT cams) was running terribly. As soon as I downloaded the base map the car started running great again.

For the price of the UTEC, I am a little disapointed with the Hyper Terminal interface. There are cheaper things on the market with full color graphics and 3D tables, etc. However, the interface is VERY easy to use, and within 5 mintues I was comfortable uploading, downloading, and editing values.

I picked up on a few of the little quirks of the UTEC, mostly little things:

In the manual it says to enter the MAP calibration data - gradient and intercept. On my calibration sheet the gradient and intercept aren't listed, so I'm not sure what to do?

The spare output (boost solenoid) only works one way (on when all conditions are met). It would be nice if you could reverse this action in software, and not have to resort to modifying the hardware.

My car dies every time I save anything to the UTEC. This really isn't a problem, but I was sitting in the passenger seat the whole time, and everytime I downloaded I had to get out, walk to the other side of the car, and restart it! I later found that if I pushed the accerator pedal in about 5% right before I went to download the car wouldn't shut off. But, since I was in the passengers seat this was virtually impossible in most circumstances!

I haven't gotten in to boost at all as I'm still on the base tune (the base tune is from a built 15psi APS TT with 650cc injectors) but I'm getting large amounts of knock from 1900 to 3000rpm (I havn't gone above 3000RPM). The manual says you shouldn't have to adjust the knock settings, so I'll leave that up to my tuner. I find it hard to belive that there is actually knock at low RPMs, with 94 octane gas, and no boost.

Now, if I could just get the UTEC to log and display my AEM A/F data I would be super happy. As mentioned above, I'm pretty sure my APS boost solenoid will work with my UTEC, but I had to add hardare. If it works I'll post details.

I wonder what the chances are that TurboXS will develop a nice GUI to give the UTEC a more professional look and feel. I was talking to a few MegaSquirt users (a comprable non plug and play fuel/spark system at 1/2 the price) and their softare is absolutely amazing looking.

 

i think you just got a chitty tune

 

Thank you for the write up...please keep us posted. I am looking into other options besides the Unichip. Can I ask your reasons for parting with the Unichip?

 

yeah i would turn down the knock sensitivity just a bit. also put the correlations to 3.

as far as the saving killing your car thing. it happens everytime to save it. you need to just sit in the drivers seat

 

Make sure that you have the new map sensor ... if you have a map sensor that looks like this:



Call them up and they will change it for you. This one will not work with the ZUTEC

 

A GUI interface for the PC side would be nothing but eye candy. Sure, it will look more high tech but won't add any real value to the product other than the impressions it gives to their customers.

 

I think the base tune, for what it is and who it is from, is fine. I know that it is a base tune, and isn't perfect for my car, but it should be fine for just driving around town. Like I said, I'm not worried about the knock issue right now, I just thought it was strange that it is displaying knock.

The reasons are simple. The Unichip manipulates MAF voltage to change timing and fuel. Eventually, you max out the MAF voltage and you can't add anymore fuel. The UTEC is a better design, and much closer to a stand alone system. That, and I can have it tuned locally, and not drive 6 hours to have the tuning done. I have had my APS TT installed for seven months driving it around (on low boost) with a 'conservative' base map provided by the shop I bought the TT from (Scott Performance). I work too much to drive to Chicago just to have my car worked on.

But there isn't enough room in the drivers seat for me, my laptop, and my steering wheel!!!! haha


I have the map sensor in the picture you posted. When was it discovered that his MAP sensor won't work? I just bought my UTEC 2 weeks ago, and no one ever mentioned that it wouldn't work... Do you have any more info on this?

I totally agree. The interface they have now works, and like I said is very user friendly. However, there are cheaper units on the market that look MUCH better, and offer features only found in a dedicated GUI. I was at a cruise in last night and someone asked about the UTEC and so I pulled my laptop out and showed the UTEC 'dashboard' to 5-6 guys and all they could say is how cheesy it is, and that they hoped the UTEC worked better then it looked. My tuner also mentioned how tuning would be a tad bit faster if full color graphs were generated, like in other programs he used. Its not a big deal, but for the price of the UTEC it would be nice if they had something a little more modern day.

Has anyone else had this MAP sensor problem????

 

Call Jermaine @ Turbo XS ... I'm still waiting for my new map sensor to come in

 

The very first pressure sensors were a larger style, and they didnt work correctly. If you bought your UTEC within the past several months, you likely have the smaller, and newer version.

I assume your pressure is reading correctly...roughly -8 to -10psi at idle, and it responds correctly...in which case..you have the correct sensor.

To avoid the engine stall when saving maps, just blip the throttle, and save. In regards to knock, are you seeing knock counts even when free reving the car? If so, they you likely need to reduce the knock sensativity, which your tuner can do for you.

Do you have cams and new valve train on this engine? It might be picking up some random engine noise.

 

I have cams and valve springs, so that may be the issue. I noticed today that the MAP sensor reads vacuum fine, but at 3-5psi it still was reading a negative value. I'm still not sure how to enter the calibration data off of the included calibration sheet. I had already discovered that blipping the throttle will keep it from stalling, but its hard to do sitting in the passengers seat!

The MAP sensor I have looks just like the one in the picture, how can I tell if mine works or doesn't work? I bought it about 3 weeks ago.

 

Not if you move the seat back. That's what I do when I'm tuning. Car is idleing, I move the seat back and put the computer in my lap.

 

i know that in the Z, there is barely room to put the seat all the way back and have the laptop in front of you, and i am skinny. 175.

now with the G, Mr King, you have a bit more room...

 

Kpierson has a G35.

 

If I put the seat back far enough for the laptop to fit my short legs won't reach the pedals!!!!

 

put the seat back.. sit sideways... use your left foot to hit the accelerator.. curve your right foot.. sit facing hte passenger side window

 

This is the one i got from them with my utec but didnt install it yet, does it look right to you?

 

I think it is the new one. I'm still waiting for mine to come in.

Az

 

KPierson, the defauly default/gradient usually are usually spot on. Since the UTEC isnt mapping the MAP sensor voltage correctly, I would give Jermaine or Nathan a call and ask them if calibration will help. We had an issue, similar to yours, and it ended up being the wrong sensor.

 

Now I have to wonder if I have the right sensor. Geez.

 

Sharif, you gonna be at ZdayZ again this year? I'm hoping to have my car tuned by then, but I may be looking for a weekend tuner