Anyone know a site where they review all the turbo kits? I am looking for a reliable and efficient 600hp from a twin turbo kit. I have been looking at APS and Greddy. Seems APS has the best headroom but can the Greddy push 600hp reliably for the cheaper price?

thanks

 

I'm not sure, but the forced induction forum is this way ---> https://my350z.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=182

 

to get 600+ you not only need F/I but you need to do some serious engine work :P

 

Good TT kit, good install and tune, built block and about $25K.

 

I'd venture to say you're being a little optimistic with that price. You probably spent so much you threw some reciepts out. How's the car running?

 

Oh, I always wanted to make this post.

This is a twin turbo 350Z.



This is reliable transportation.



ANY QUESTIONS ????

The terms "reliable" and "600hp" should not be used together. Neither should "cheap" and "600 hp". Get ready to pony up $30K or more to get a bone stock Z up to 600hp and no that isn't a typo.

 

I should have been more specific. I have a rebuilt sleeved block with increased redline to 8,000. It is good to about 750hp but I want a twin turbo kit that is the best for 600hp and most reliable relative to others at that power.

thanks

 

No TT kit has failed due to power as of yet. Choose any you want. I am a fan of the APS kit but I do not own one nor should my opinion sway you in any direction.

 

How about the new APS Extreme kit?

 

I'm running the GReddy TT. 4000+ miles and no issues (knock on wood). As previously stated, the weak point is going to be the engine. Since you already have yours built, and you're not looking to push more than 600whp, any of the twin setups will give you more than enough to satisfy your needs. If you're looking for more torque, then the JWT would be my vote. Even torque and HP numbers: APS. Stronger HP numbers and external waste gates: GReddy. I don't know much about the PE setup, and haven't seen too many guys running it on this forum (although there are a few). It really comes down to personal preference. In any of those setups, I'd look for a strong engine management solution. UTEC or HKS F-CON seem to be high up on the popular list, but it's also dependent on who does the tune.

In any case, good luck with your search and make sure you post up as your getting things done... It's always good to see another guy take the plunge and go FI .

 

Not that I doubt you, but you have 14 posts. Why is it that you have a fully built sleeved motor and no idea what turbo kit you want?

 

Please PM...

600 WHP is big $$$.

Regardless.

Yet we have an excellent solution.

M

 

I disagree...it can be done for MUCH less than 30 grand if you do most of the work yourself and are smart about all your spending. I'm around 10 grand invested right now and I'm only a built motor, new engine management, a new fuel system away from 600whp. If I do a full longblock I might tip the scales at just over 20 grand total, but a full longblock build isn't necessary for 600whp.

 

ERAU=pilot factory (loves stirrin the kettle)

 

ERAU = Crappy pilot factory that thinks it's **** doesn't stink...

Brian (attended ERAU Daytona for 2 years back in the 90s before he came to his senses)

 

I can agree with that....labor costs SUCK. That's why I have lots of tools and a DD.

 

Note:

You can do 600 WHP for less but WHY if you can't drive it!

Built Motor
Greddy 18G, APS or JWT BB700 kit
Fuel System (adds up)
Don't forget the clutch and Flywheel
Tuning
Gauges

It can be had for less than $20k like BriGuy says...However only on the dyno and YOU can't IMO road race that power without spending more$$$. If you don't care about road racing your car with 600WHP, PLEASE DISREGARD THIS POST...Because of the power level, I wouldn't cut corners on anything if you really want to drive 600+WHP

Radiator
Oil Cooler
Brakes
Wheel and Tires
Suspension

To Make the power, I agree with BRIGUY you do not need Built Heads.


You don't have to address all of these. YOU DON'T HAVE TO HAVE THESE THINGS... yet if you want A COMPLETE car that you can drive and actually appreciate the power, NOT JUST ON The DYNO, Yet drive hard on the track...

All of these are a must IMO

I road race, drift, and daily my G. If I was short on anyone of these, you will find a missing link when driving 600 WHP around a road racetrack only 10-15 minutes.

Brakes burnt, tires spent, car overheats, oil temp soar.

NOT TALKING ABOUT A 600+ WHP DYNO run lasting 8 seconds, talking about really driving 600+ WHP to its limits. I could give a CRAP what the dyno run is if I can't use the power on the road and track.

Maybe you folks don't care about really driving 600+WHP, yet why have the power if you can only brag about it on the dyno. 600+ WHP Cost real $$$. If you don't believe me, let's get together all of our 600+WHP cars on the track, any track in Cali, set them all to make at least 600+WHP and let's just run them for one track sessions.

NOT A RACE, just run them and run them hard. Sure a 1/4 mile is running hard, yet it only last for 10-13 seconds depending on your car, I am talking about running hard for 20-30 minutes straight at 5000-7000 RPM.

Then at the end see what cars stay together best...And of course we can see which ones ran the hardest and fastest by simply tracking the times and Cipher logs. My car has overheated on 100 degree track days running at this level.

Sounds Fun...The point can be proven on the track...Again having or making 600+ on the dyno and truly driving/racing 600+whp are two different things. Hell, I can give you a 600+WHP for an 8 second dyno run on a stock motor, won't last, yet it will make the power...

I KNOW THE POST WASn't about racing 600+WHP, yet I don't find any point about having 600+ on the dyno and not being to really drive it.

My $.05!

M

 

I looked at that exact campus before I decided on Florida Tech after hearing from the FAA test pilots around central FL that told me about ERAU