OK, I think I found out why there is a dip, my timing is a bit too conservative. The Utec takes over timing at 2200 roughly.

I went from 15.8 degrees to 23.6 degrees instantly.

At 6500rpm I was at 18.7 degrees.

 

Almost 19 degrees of timing isnt all that conservative-at least on a stock block that would be pushing it some. Im sure your motor with lower comp can run more timing safely at the power level your at now. FWIW-on my stock block and numbers in my sig I ran 15 degrees timing at redline....

 

I agree. 19 degrees...even on a built motor is a little bit on the high side. Even if detonation is not present, there are some advantage to running a little bit more conservative timing...namely less cylinder pressure in the early stages beyond TDC. Might help save a few head gaskets.

just some food for thought....everyone will have their own strategies.

 

15 degrees of timing at full boost at redline? Wow, i think im running around 9 degrees at 7lbs of boost. UTEC here as well.

 

No way your running 9 degrees advance @ redline. Go double check and get back to us...

 

Lol, i dont need to double check, i log my car almost every day. I will try raising it a little bit, and messing with fuel.

 

That thing has to pull like a$$...why are you retarding timing so much??

 

Its just the way i tuned it, im getting around 11.5-11.0 AF at redline. What's the norm for timing for stock blocks?

 

You think it's a bit on the high side even at only 7psi?

Whats the best way to calculate what timing should be? My timing table was given to me from someone with almost an identical setup as mine, and then I pulled 1 degree from every cell. I honestly don't know anything about the timing, except for what I was told when the guy sent me the maps.

Thanks!

 

Ah, sorry...didnt realize you were running only 7psi. Thats about right, given your lower compression.

Timing cannot usually be established with a table, as it really needs to be dialed in on a dyno, while observing and analyzing a trq curve. General rules-of-thumbs are hit or miss at best.

 

must pull like a brokez with no timing!! hehe



i am running 18 peak rpm timing now (when my car works) and 15 peak tq


i think his figures are fine for 8 psi...

 

actually i made a mistake...im running around 9 degrees at peak torque, but towards redline, im at around 13 degrees. My bad

 

Told ya

 

Peak TQ is where you really want to watch your timing and A/F. This is the danger zone where most damage occurs. I Normally run very conservative timing near peak TQ then advance towards redline as long as there is no signs of detonation..Remember, too LITTLE timing makes EGT's get hot..So dont go ultra conservative..You can normally see when tuning a UTEC is the stock ECU is pulling timing then you 100% picking up knock..

 

custom grind from scott performance huh? maybe he grinded scott performance on the side of the jwt cams and sold it for $5000. don't worry, ur not the only one, check my sig

 

Actually I paid about the same price for them as JWT charges....

 

well then u must be lucky, i paid about $3200 for the cams, valvesprings, and retainers and after, felt like i gained 5 horsepower. but of course i have the dyno sheet that says i made 311!

 

Every car will be different but about how much timing do you generally run around 4800rpm's and at redline?

 

That all depends.On a stock motor from 8-11 degrees at peak TQ, On a built motor 9-12 , on my motor will C12 Im running about 16-18 degrees and 23 at redline..

 

Damn, thats sick timing on race gas, that beotch pulls HARD....