Hi

I am going to the FI route (TN Kit) and I am deft. looking to built my engine first. I really don't want to build my engine for the performance but rather for the Safety and less chance of my engine going BOOM . I would like to know from people's experiences how much power can I push safely with a short block? Probably going to be doing 8 compression. I would like to make as much as I can, but as long as it's safe HP.


Thanks


Mahdi

 

On the 60-1 turbo that comes with the kit, you will pass peak efficiency and max the turbo out well before you run into limitations with the built short block (at around 500whp with cams). With the Turbonetics stage 2 kit (hopefully released sometime soon), you should be able to push the limits of a built shortblock.

With some aggressive cams, a built shortblock can be taken into the low 600's. This could change as people continue to make innovations in boosting these motors.

 

I am going to go with the Stage 2 when it comes out. On one side the time they are taking is killing me, but in the other hand it would help me put better and more stuff into my car till they come out with there kit.

Thanks a lot for the quick help

 

What ever happen to the 1.5 or stage 2 kit? I thought it was due out by summer or end of?

 

Still in R&D. I'd rather them take longer to get it right than rush out the door. I think it will be well worth the wait.

 

I need one as well, I am tired of going back and forth between twins and the stage 2. The day it comes out, I am ordering my longblock!!!

 

Exactly.

I good unsleeved shortblock can support 600whp. Beyond that, I'd recommend sleeving the block, but as others have posted, you'll probably hit the limitations of your turbo kit, prior to maxing out your short block.

And honestly, only time will tell...maybe 700 true whp is the limit. Nobody really knows for certain.

 

What would be the first to go if there was no sleeve? Just wondering..

 

Cylinder wall deflection, and a blown headgasket. But its so difficult to tell. Someone needs to build an unsleeved shortblock, with upgraded studs, and a proper cooling system, and really push this thing to the limit. I think we might all be surprised with how much the stock cylinder walls can take. But until we figure it out....I am suggesting sleeves past 600whp.

 

My only question would be where the limit of available traction comes into play. Anyone pushing 450+ whp knows that it's a chore to ensure you can hook up. At around 550 whp, street tires reach their limits. So unless you're building a car for track days only, why bother???

I know I'll probably get flamed for this, and I KNOW THAT A BOOST CONTROLLER CAN FIX THE ISSUE, but pushing 600+ on the streets is insane unless your running DR's all day.

To the OP - if you're looking to keep the car streetable and not make a track/dyno queen out of it, then sleeving and head work isn't necessary. A nice set of pistions, rods, and head/main studs should do just fine.

As always, just my

 

I agree mostly with S1ameze, but I personally think I will run my 305 DR's for daily driving... I am pretty sure a good set of KDW's would work too for daily driving and keep you firmly planted.

When I was running about 500whp, I did not really have a problem keeping traction, but the key is throttle control and modulation. If I just stomped the throttle, of course it breaks lose, but feathering the clutch when starting and just taking it easy solves most of the traction problems.
Yes, when I was racing and trying to just redline-shift, yea then I could burn the tires in every gear...

It takes time to learn the limits of the car and of course not being lead footed. If you like to just floor it all the time, you will definitely have traction problems above 400 whp on normal street tires.
--B

 

^^^
Brent - you're insane... LOL. But running DR's is just about the only way you're going to be able to keep traction in that beast.

I'll agree that it's all about finesse, but anything in the 500+whp range on the streets is just sick. My point was sleeving the block and/or doing the head work didn't seem to be necessary for someone looking to push "streetable" power. And that in keeping with a "streetable" approach, traction comes into play at power levels that high.

But hey, drifting all over town can be a blast too!!!

 

Sorry for the lack of updates but yes Stage 1.5 and Stage 2 are still in R&D and will be released together. Right now the major effort is finding that perfect turbo for Stage 2. Turbonetics has some new models coming out soon and they are testing those as well.

 

600whp is perfectly controllable with street tires (305's or bigger)....so long as you are traveling at least 75mph before going WOT.

 

^^^
LMAO. Point taken...

 

Is SGP still in business, if so...is anyone ordering there prebuilt engines from them? why or why not?

 

Sharif has prebuilt engines cheaper .. and he is always on the board every day... all day.. no offence to SGP.. but i seen them post once in a blue moon..

Todd also builds engines and he is here 24/7 like Sharif also

 

i disagree, i couldnt floor my car with 295 pirelli p zero rossos at 120 mph, at 13 psi which was 470 on a dynojet, it would just smoke the tires and get sideways as hell at 120mph

crazy

with my daily driven drag radials, well i can only floor it in 4th gear, 1st 2nd and 3rd all break lose at any speed. they are 265/40/18s BFGs

 

possibly late november is the rumor...

 

turn your VDC back on