back when this whole process started Jan'06 these issuse were not up, so now I have to band aid it with l19's and hks gaskets. I would perfer the 1/2inches but the cost is getting rather high.

 

HKS headgasket information:

http://www.cj-motorsports.com/headgaskets.htm

 

Back off some of that boost.....

JET

 

thanks for the info phunk. Looks like the right direction

Jetpilot boost is like crack hard to back it off, i turned it down today to 12lbs and still got head lift.

 

Yeah.... no sh*t. I'm about to buy a second turbo kit because I hit the limit on the first one. You might want to think about putting the turbo's away and picking up the crack pipe. It's cheaper.

JET

 

yea but then I have to visit the dentist more, now I just have to swing by the gas pump alot.... Well with the prices of fuel might be a wash. Selling a single to go twins? I had a vortech and traded up.

 

i think more of you need to gut out the thermostat and run 100% distilled water plus some water wetter during the warmer months, with everything i have done, my coolant level NEVER gets over 185F. luckily i am in florida and can run this setup all year long....

 

Turbonetics to Greddy..... POSSIBLY! Just possibly.

I'm really trying to justify it but I can't.

Plasma TV's are nice too.

JET

 

justdo it,

I am in florida too I doubt pulling the thermostat is going to cure my headlift. Or will it????? Seems to simple to work. I am on about 80%distilled and 20%antifreeze. My temp needle only goes up halfway. Mr Mayhem I know you have a rather serious car what kinda numbers are on your motor setup, and gasket choice? Stud choice?

Thanks
Ryan

 

I always suggested just pulling the thermostat. If anything its going to make the cooling system easy to bleed the air out. But then again I live in Cali where its warm.

 

it is very warm here in south florida as well, just doubt that will "cure" headlift thanks for all the feedback guys. I do agree it will make bleeding much easier.

 

ryan do you have a larger radiator?

 

He's got Cosworth gaskets and 1/2 headstuds. His last clutch wouldnt hold so he has no #'s right now

 

heads dont lift. sleeves shift due to combustion pressures. the slightest cylinder walk or sink will causea headgasket to blow. all larger headstuds do is put more pressure on the sleeves to stop them from moving. The real problem is the tuning. Need a high grade of octane or find the sweet spot in the timing curve. Maximuim cylinder efficency, least pressure.

 

There are a few knowledgable people on the boards here that would put up a strong argument against your claim.

JET

 

That would be correct if you assume that your splitline between the block and the heads is perfect, ie flatness of heads and block, condition of gasket, and proper clamping force on the head studs to hold the pressure inside the cylinder.

 

There are guys with resleeved blocks that have blown headgaskets too....

I agree that tuning has a lot to do with it...but you can't say that heads don't ever lift.

 

this is getting to be a great conversation here. I do have an upgraded Rad from Koyo, w/o double checking i can't remember if it is 32mm or 36mm. On Evos and LS-1s they also experience headlift. I do not think a Evo has an open deck, and on the Ls-1's does anyone know if they have an open deck? I know on the older chevys (350lt-1) they have 5 studs surrounding the piston and a solid deck and on our motors we have 4 studs. And when I was a kid kid we raced mustangs and blew head gaskets all the time with FI due to only having 4 studs that surrounding the piston. Most of the time we went to O-ring heads to solve it. I do feel tuning has a large role in this. I am going to be interested to have this solved. But all in all everyone has a valid point. I am leaning towards the l19's and Hks Gaskets.

Ryan

 

+1, good luck!

 

Ahhh what a price we all pay to pee off corvette guys.