I've been battling with overboost, boost spiking, droping, etc, etc... So, my first choice was to get an electronic boost controller. I got the best of the best in my opinion.. HKS EVC.. But it didn't fix any of my problems... But then, I figured EVC would be no good if the actuator is acting funny... So, I installed the Forge actuator with 9-15psi (yellow) spring in it today.

The result is amazing! My zeitronix boost readings used to bounce around within 1.5psi range during WOT on any gears, but during the test run today it was stuck at 10.5psi all the way to the red line on 4th gear!!!!!!! For a second I thought the zeitronix was broken.... Wow! Contrary to other APS ST owners, I used to have an overboosting problem on high gear (5th, 6th) WOT runs, but no problem with that anymore..

For those APS ST owners struggling to keep the boost level consistent, if you took care of the exhaust system... I strongly recommand HKS EVC with Forge actuator combo... Happy boosting.

 

do you have a link to the "forge" actuator?

 

Sharif has them at his shop

 

I'll have valerie add them to the website...we sell at lot of them.

 

Sharif, Is this recommended/required to get the maximum boost from APS TT using the Unichip?

 

leeboy, congrats man, how far down do you have the actuator tightened down?

 

Great, glad everything worked out. I am installing a pair of Forge actuators on an APS Twin Turbo C6 corvette today at 16psi, going for 850+rwhp.

 

Absolutely. You will have trouble getting more than 10psi out of the stock APS actuators. I struggled to get to 8.5psi with a customer's car last week...using a UTEC and Blitz SBC-iD. He did have a restrictive exhuast/downpipe setup, so that contributed to it. But for high boost, the upgraded actuators are a must.

 

What did you have to replace in the bottom end or are you going for broke?

 

Let's just say EVERYTHING, starting with a C5-R block.

 

Just one hole shorter. That's it! I figured if I didn't shorten the rod at all, I would get 9psi, but I wanted 10.5~11psi, so i shortened it just one hole length.

 

Thanks for hooking me up~ I'm so excited that I finally got this huge monkey off my back.... As you recommanded, I took it apart and checked out the internals. Nice~ Good luck with your beast build up~

 

im wondering if the actuators for the twin kit are different than those for the single kit. sharif, can you compare the 2.

 

No, they aren't. The only thing that is different is the rod specification used in any given "vehicle" specific actuator and the spring used for each. For APS, there is only one rod specification that is used whether it is a TT or ST system. I use a MityVac pressure/vacuum tester to verify spring tensions prior to install so we don't get into issues after the fact. It is also important on all TT's to verify both actuators open at the same pressure during install.

 

thats what im talking about, the rod specs, i know the cannister and springs are the same, im wondering if the rod length or thread length is different. somebody posted pics of their setup and they had a forge cannister, but had the stock rod on it. i looked at mine and there is no way in hell the stock rod will fit on it. my threaded rod is too long, if i put the stock rod on my forge cannister, its so long, there wouldnt be any tension on the wg swingarm.

 

You might have the wrong rod. If memory serves me right, it's only about 1.25-1.5" protruding from the base of the actuator. I just had Forge make me two other actuators for an Incon TT TransAm and both were about an inch longer than I asked and not threaded far enough. There was no way I could use the arms on that system so I broke out my cutoff wheel and "Die" set and modified them in about 10 minutes.

 

Forge used my setup to make the actuators, i was the first one to ask about the single turbo actuator, so i sent mine to luis, (who kept it for about 6 weeks), so he could do all the measuring and make theirs.

my threaded rod comes out about 2-2.5 inches. and the stock rod only threads inwards about an inch. so if i threaded it on there it wouldnt even latch onto the swingarm, i wonder if my rod is too long and not creating the required tension for the right spring pressure.here is mine. see how long the rod is.



but here it shows the length is the same. right now, the turnbuckle is tightened all the way down, set to 15psi, but with the ebc off, running off spring pressure, i get nowhere near 15psi.

https://my350z.com/forum/attachment....5&d=1135999248

 

OK!! I made the APS TT actuators originally for my own APS TT kit, which I never installed and sold back in Oct. 2004. I was Forge Motorsports sales manager up until just after SEMA of 2004. I then supplied my own spec Forge actuators with custom rods to Irshad and Tuan at GRD. The other day I needed a 2.25" rod so I grabbed a Forge "APS TT" actuator thinking it would be perfect and compared them. The APS version was about 3/4" shorter (about 1.5" coming out of the base) than what I needed. The one LeeboyNY just installed was about 1.5".

Send the actuator down to me and I'll modify it and send it back. It only takes about 5 minutes and it WILL be done right utilizing the APS attachment arm.

The pictures you posted actually have a long rod, like 6 or 7" with a 2" arm and ultimately should have just went with a short rod and maintained the long APS arm to connect to the swingvalve.

 

you think that might help get the correct preload on my wg, right now like i said i have the short rod tightened all the way down till it wont go anymore, but maybe that is preventing me from achieving the right preload. im gonna call luis at forge tomorrow and see if he can ship me the right one, if not, ill send you mine.

 

Actually, talk to Mike. I will IM him in the morning and tell him what's going on. You will want one of the actuators made for the APS TT kit.

Is your wastegate door fully closing now when you connect the arm?