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ATTN ALL HIGH HORSEPOWER FI Z/G's

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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Default ATTN ALL HIGH HORSEPOWER FI Z/G's

I burnt out a JWT Clutch & Flywheel pretty quick, looking for your guys best reccomends on a clutch for someone who has a ST G35 w/ 420whp/ 370 tq & a built enigne on the way. I also love to beat the hell out of the car on a daily basis. Whats best setup for this?
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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wow ..thats pretty serious.....i hear vrt has some solutions for u. please dont go act. Or contact jason from my nismo i believe i seen good clutch setups on his site. Carbon 5 puck etc.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 02:55 PM
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If you burned a JWT clutch/FW at 420whp your doing something wrong. Regardless, you can look into ATS dual or triple disc for serious power, it will be overkill now, but for later if you build you wont need a swap. Some like the RPS 6 puck but I hateRPS clutches, and I know of a guy with 470whp who said it was a POS and slipped-drivers/break in habits obviously great impact holding power/longevity. I myself run an ATS triple disc and while its a bit chattery off the line it holds the power. Or for only $300 or so you can buy an upgraded friction disc for the JWT set-up to hold more power, that would be your cheapest solution....
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Some like the RPS 6 puck but I hateRPS clutches, and I know of a guy with 470whp who said it was a POS and slipped-drivers/break in habits obviously great impact holding power/longevity.
Out of curiosity, what do you dislike (hate) about RPS clutches? I am running the RPS flywheel and max street clutch with 420 whp and it is working flawlessly. Holds the torque well, smooth and quiet engagement, etc. I always thought their reputation was pretty good also.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Alberto
If you burned a JWT clutch/FW at 420whp your doing something wrong. Regardless, you can look into ATS dual or triple disc for serious power, it will be overkill now, but for later if you build you wont need a swap. Some like the RPS 6 puck but I hateRPS clutches, and I know of a guy with 470whp who said it was a POS and slipped-drivers/break in habits obviously great impact holding power/longevity. I myself run an ATS triple disc and while its a bit chattery off the line it holds the power. Or for only $300 or so you can buy an upgraded friction disc for the JWT set-up to hold more power, that would be your cheapest solution....
+1 I agree with Alberto, something is wrong here. The jwt is a good clutch, I know some F/I guys on the Steet forum (NorCal) that are using the jwt clutch/flywheel setup with no issues of any type. Barthleb for one. You might want to do as Alberto said and do the upgrade first, which might solve your situation.

Last edited by WSchli1672; Oct 2, 2006 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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I have 12K miles on my JWT setup with 430+rwhp and I beat the cr@p out of it all the time. It still holds like the day I put it in. You have to be doing something wrong to burn out a JWT at that power level.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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If you overly slip any clutch, they will all burn out pre-maturely.

I would do an RPS or ACT package, or bite the bullet, and get a twin disc ATS carbon. If you have any questions...lemme know.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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I have to agree with everyone above. Your driving is the issue with why the clutch died, not the clutch's fault. 420hp is nothing major. Hell, the stocker will hold that for quite a while.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 08:00 PM
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There could be something with the 5th synchro because I was grinding into 5th about 20 times. The JWT Clutch was slipping on the dyno a month and a half ago
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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Not to call you out , but when you were at car version for your tune, you did say that you didn't break in that clutch at all. there isn't a clutch out there that you can just install and start beating on from the door. if you break in the clutch properly, there are a couple of choices for your power level.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bullitproof
Not to call you out , but when you were at car version for your tune, you did say that you didn't break in that clutch at all. there isn't a clutch out there that you can just install and start beating on from the door. if you break in the clutch properly, there are a couple of choices for your power level.
The only clutches that really need a break-in period are organic clutches. All metal racing clutches need no break-in whatsoever, and I'm pretty sure carbon clutches don't either.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:36 PM
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i think the jwt is organic.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
The only clutches that really need a break-in period are organic clutches. All metal racing clutches need no break-in whatsoever, and I'm pretty sure carbon clutches don't either.
Carbon clutches do need break in
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 04:56 AM
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We have had a good relationship with RPS over the past 2.5 years. I would recommend a RPS Max 6 Puck or Street Disc. Both will hold the power you are putting down. The 6 Puck would be a better option with the CynRG Flywheel.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Bullitproof
i think the jwt is organic.

It is...I'm just saying there are lots of clutches out there that require no break-in whatsoever.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Carbon clutches do need break in

I stand corrected.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 06:43 AM
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Almost all street/strip clutches require some kind of break-in. Even JWT, CM, RPS, and ACT all say to break the clutches in for 100-250 easy miles. Carbon clutches recommend a 1000 mile break-in. This doesnt mean you cant drive the engine hard, but you want to avoid slipping the clutch, and causing it to overheat...so no drag racing from a stop.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 06:49 AM
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Ive always broken in organic clutches for 500 miles-they always held up to my abuse. 100-250 miles seems kinda short to me, but everybody has their opipnions on this.
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 07:04 AM
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Definetly get the Carbontech (formerly ATS, ATS no longer manufacturers clutches) dual carbon clutch. Get the R compound discs, and the lightweight flywheel. Nothing compares. Prepare to pay $1900. But the clutches are amazing.

JET
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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+1

ATS (Carbontech...) is the way to go. Hefty price, but the last clutch you'll buy for the car.
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