redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

Man Pun I just don't know what to say.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Here is what Seth at Sonic just sent me....

Well I noticed when your car was starting it sounded almost no compression. Once started it sounded like it was missing a cylinder(s). But anyways I went on to checking the sensor and the wires. Everything checked out. So then I went on to checking the spark plugs. Driverside plugs were all functioning properly, just a little rich. Passenger side front plug was functioning but super rich. The last two on the passenger side however were super wet. So already we're in the wrong direction. Next I went on to the compression check. I didn't bother on the driverside. The passenger side however the first one made compression. The last two made no compression whatsoever. I've seen this only once before on another car. So to verify my fear I pulled the valve cover. My theory was correct. The camshaft broke. It broke right after the first lobe. Thus explaining all of the problems. Judging by the break I'd have to say it was due to a defective cam. I'll upload pictures when I get home. I'm not sure where to go from here. It's clearly the cam manufacturers fault. However if I change it that requires me to go into the engine, front cover and such will have to be removed. Not sure how that affects your warranty with the engine builders. In fact I'm not even sure if your valves are bent or not. More than likely it looks like no, but I stopped going any further to await what you feel is the next step. I guess I will be waiting for your phone call.

Seth

P.S. I found that the O2 sensor wasn't pluged in all the way so that solved that problem. Not that it matters much at this point.


I realy dont know where to go with this. The engine has just at 100 miles on it. They were JWT S1's and Im awaiting further notice if the rest of the engine is fukt too.

Can any one help me? Im at my witts end!

EDIT: To all who doubted me I told you I have horrible luck where **** just happens.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

I guess you were pretty on about the cams being off. Yeah um kay.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Just got these from Seth (sonicz33)





So yeah does any one know what my options are? They were brand new never installed until now. Any one have any contacts at JWT that may have any info on this?

redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

How does that happen?

SonicZ33

iTrader: (2)

Defect in casting, oil starvation to caps, wrong cam caps. The cam still appears to be free with no signs of over heating, so the likely cause is the casting.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Ouch thats horrible, I can't believe that. For something like that I would call JWT directly and ask for Jim Wolf. If it is in fact a casting flaw I wouldn't accept anything short of him on the phone...

Audible Mayhem

iTrader: (48)

i have been doing TONS and TONS of research on all areas of the engine lately.

does everyone know that straight from comp cams you are supposed to start a brand new fresh lubricated engine and IMMEDIATELY rev it to 2500 for 20 minutes. this is VERY VERY VERY important for cam break in.

i am not sure of the break in proceedure used with this motor but just wanted to point out that sometimes this situation is cause by improper break in before we start blaming the cam manufacturer.

another thing, since the cam is a solid break, more than likely a couple parts can be replaced and the motor will be back to new with minor set backs. the valves would have just stayed closed and nothing would have had a chance to hit at all.

its actually not as bad as you think, just some labor for replacing the cam/cams...

EM-EFER

iTrader: (6)

^^ That is the proper way for breakin.
Another thing to assure everything goes smooth is to lube the cam shafts with assembly lube like using KY on your women when shes to drunk to get wet. Gob it on.

Punish Her

I would have them check to be sure the remaining part of the cam isn't binding. I doubt it since Todd built it, but it will be worth a look.

SonicZ33

iTrader: (2)

That break-in procedure applies to the cam lobes. Also it applies to running engines with brand new installed cams. Not a brand new engine. You do that break-in on a brand new engine your cylinders will look like mirrors. Bye bye cross-hatching. Unless blow-by isn’t a problem. Anyways the shaft broke. There’s no such thing as break in for that part. It would be like trying to break-in the section between the small and big ends of your rods. Like I said the only two possibilities for this scenario is that the cam had too much resistance (cam cap bore too tight, insufficient oil to cap bore, or piston hit valve) or manufacturing defect. Don't be so surprised. That happens more than you would like to think. Also even though the break is clean it doesn't necessarily mean that the damage was contained to the camshaft. It is undetermined at what specific rpm this shaft broke at. If it broke on start up more than likely its probably ok, because where the lobes currently rest the valves are closed. However if the engine was revving there’s a possibility the valves could have touched and then this is where they stopped. Anyways the detached section still moves ok, thus disproving the resistance through lack of oil or cam cap bore for it would have been frozen. Keep in mind this engine didn't start yesterday as it was running for at least 2 weeks. An installation or clearance problem should have become more apparent earlier. Installation error usually results in immediate breakage while tightening caps, clearance problems result in breakage shortly after startup and result in discoloration from heat generated and the cam being frozen in the caps. Anyways more than likely this damage is minimal, hopefully. When the early generation crower camshafts were breaking on turbo Hondas it resulted it total catastrophic damage in that once the cam went, the valves got stuck, then the piston hit them, then the shrapnel generated from piston and valve parts went flying down the turbo. After enough of these incidents happened crower did a recall and corrected the problem in the castings. We’ll now it comes down to calling JWT and seeing what they recommend. He might have just had a bad egg and need to replace it.

gringott

iTrader: (17)

Yikes! Sorry punish_her.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

wow!! this is horrible news!!!
Just so you know, the clearances on the cams are always respected...we tighten down the cam caps with cam in place, lubricated and ensure that it spins 360 degrees freely... we have NEVER had an issue with cam clearances on ANY aftermarket cams...in this case, it was kinda a special circumstance, as Mike sent us cams to install in the motor, there were no signs of any issue prior to install

so sorry to hear about this Mike! Call me when you can..hopefully JWT will compensate for cams and the re-timing, let me know if we can do anything...if you need any stock parts that may have been damaged..let me know, I'll send em out immediately, anything to help

-TODD

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

and hopefully, the valves are fine, if that valve was stuck closed the entire time, at least it wouldn't be bouncing off the piston, the only question is WHEN did the cam break in the power cycle (as Sonic was saying), probably upon trying to open, which would be a good thing, as it would remian closed and not interfere with the piston (if at lower rpm- again, as Sonic mentioned)

if the cam was tight in the front journal, then the oil contamination/clearance theory would make sense..but if it is freely moveable, as Sonic said, than maybe this is the first reported cam defect, I spoke with a few others and they stated they have never run into a cam breaking, but, on the flip side, we have seen cams break in shipping several times, although this is due to dropping, not spinned..but, hopefully upon disassembly inspection, the answer can be discovered

TODD

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Ouch..this is definately the first i have seen with the VQ35. The only time I have seen a broken camshaft on the vQ35, is when "someone" dropped my camshaft on the floor while taking my engine apart.

We have sold dozens of sets of JWT cams, and never had one break....freak to say the least. Sonic, how does the wear pattern look on the camshaft journal and camshaft cap?

Todd and Sonic are both correct in their comments. Camshafts do not need a break-in per se. Just prime the oiling system prior to cranking the new engine, and use good assembly lube. If a cap was tight, or the camshaft was damaged, there would be some pretty good resistance when Todd was timing the engine, and setting the cam positions prior to putting the chain on.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Hate to use a term thats been used already ---But OUCH !--- Fact is--In a case like that, where there really isnt THAT much load (As oppossed to a Crank Shaft ) a trained eye can tell by looking at the both pieces of the break whether it was a defect in the shaft----Generally there will be an outer perimeter crack that got worse till the core just let loose---The center will show the final "twist".

Little doubt in my mind that JWT will work with u on this, Sorry but appears to be a unfortunate Fluk.

Good luck and Im sure u will keep us posted

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

BTW Sharif---Ouch again on that dropped shaft !!!! God I hate it when that happens !!!!