Most people that think of lag are from low compression factory cars where there is NO power until a certain point. With most stock TKs you have the full power of the stock engine, so if you think there is lag in NA, there may be some in turbo.

I describe my stock GReddy TK as feeling very linear and power down low is the same as stock. Once you get into the boost there is no "shock" of power, just smooth faster delivery of more power.

I'm going to suggest, by the sound of what you are looking for (BTW just 125hp more is a funny statement) to maybe consider an APS single where it comes with more stuff to just bolt on and go.

 

first of all relax man. you make it sound like you can just smack on a 250 more hp on an engine and with no other mods and expect the engine to be fine OK there buddy you got some serious research to do. also just because the turbo kit comes with everything you need to make it run does not mean your done you don't know what your talking about in a long run you do need to take care of other things before the car starts to to have some serious failures. i and my friends have worked on GSX, VR4's and TSI and we were in the 10 sec range on these cars don't F'n tell me i don't know what i am talking about. i am just explaining to the guy listen with the increase of hp he said he wants it to be reliable and i was just telling him make sure the car is running cool and telling him what i have seen like burned out cats and blow-en gaskets and rods in the hood. as for the sc comment i was trying t say that the sc is a safer way to go for a nice amount of power i was not saying that an sc will stomp on a turbo.you sound like an idiot who thinks he knows everything just because he got a turbo in his car or read some s**t in the mag

 

Your telling guys to run CAI's on FI kits and you have worked on a 10 second car? I doubt it. I speak from experience as I have tons of it with the Z in over 3.5 years of owning it, working on it and racing it, NA, ST and now TT-guess I better go read up on a CAI's (they work like a$$ on Z's with plenums BTW, I have dyno's to prove it, but that is neither here nor there) to help me eclipse that 600whp mark! Oh and please tell me when I said you can add 250whp to a stock Z and it would survive?

 

OP get the greddy from SGPRacing.com(they are having a special) and call it a day..... Your thread is causing madness..... lol......

 

you did not read what i wrote then i am just telling him to upgrade a few thing make sure you got some good air coming in an out make sure the engine is breathing easy and make sure all those hot gases are going out quick. an intake and penlim better cats and better exhaust should make the car breathe a little better thats all. about the 250hp comment it a general statement i am just saying when your adding more then a 100 hp to an engine make sure the damn thing is ready for it. good luck with your car man i am sure the thing is a beast; but even when i had my audi TT and i upgraded the ECU and got 50 more hp out of it and about 80more lbtq the car was def runining hotter and thats only an extra 50hp

 

I've been running the Turbonetics Stage 1 kit for coming up on 60k miles now with no oil cooler, no upgraded radiator, no cold air intake, and no re-tune. In fact the only things power related I have added are the Motordyne plenum spacer, Apexi WS2 exhaust, and JWT flywheel. I've never had issue one with my car in all this time. The only thing even remote related to cooling or reliability I did was the Blitz upper rad hose but only because it had a pre-formed bung in it for my water temp gauge. Please, don't try to tell people here how to make a boosted Z reliable. This is not a DSM. Things that apply to DSMs do not necesarily apply to Zs also...

Oh FYI, the Turbonetics kit replaces the cats with a crossover pipe. They aren't even used so the only chance of them blowing out is if you decide to pressurize them while they are in your closet.

 

My water temp pre-turbo kit was 195 cruising and in the 200-205 range at the track. My water temp post turbo is exactly the same. I removed the POS thermostat because it failed on me twice and I didn't feel like swapping it again and my water temp is now 180 cruising and in the 195-200 range at the track...

 

People invest "$$$" in built motor to be able to beat on the motor hard and have less worries about failure like a stock motor would. I'm only talking about a simple built motor. Not everybody is in it for the best of the best. You can be happy with an ST, you know. And to do a TT right, on top of that extra $1000 you have to spend another, say $2500 to pull motor. I just rather save that for later problems. Not everyone can throw all that money out at once. It takes time.

I think you need to lighten up a little. Your attitude needs to be put in check.

 

Even a built max'd TN requires expensive clutches to hold power, Return fuel system, a free flowing exhaust larger than out of the box injectors, different EMS-the investment is already there man, why not go twins? You make no sense. If your building a motor why would you pay $2500 to pull the motor to install the kit? Why not have it put in with the motor?

 

I've been told to properly install a TT you would need to pull motor. Then it blows, then you have to pull again to build motor. You can ride on low boost with stock motor for awhile before motor goes. I know it's smarter to do it all at once but this doesn't always happen. People do other things too.

But TT still cost more to do and sometimes that extra couple of grand doesn't cut it. People out there love the hobby but can't always fork out. But they have love for it and do whatever it takes at the time to fulfill that passion and are sometimes left to the cheaper route at that time. Yes, it could be bad choice but sometimes your cut short.

Some people go out and buy a Honda and spend 10 grand on it over time and could bought a stock Z and been faster but money doesn't always work out that why.

 

did you see phunk's response.....he installed his Greddy TT on a set of jackstands!!!!.without pulling the motor

 

phunk would be one gifted individual then.. Shops with lifts who have done the kit before are quoting between 20 and 40 hours for this install. I haven't seen a single install longer then 14 hours for Turbonetics with most places doing the install in 6-10 hours.

 

Yes, I know it can be done with engine still in, the kit was made around doing this. Any tuner in there right mind would pull the motor, then do the install and put back in in less time. No offense PHUNK. Making it easier and the nuts and bolts get all the right torque which is hard to do with motor in. I know a shop that will only pull motor to install headers. They claim to be able to pull motor in three hours. I said claim.

 

your statements indicate that when you install a TT kit the motor will blow, which in fact the majority of blown motors lately have been ST Kits... i have 16k on a Greddy TT Kit... UTEC.. nothing more... Chris (maximumsport) has more miles than i do.. and Brian (briguy) has more miles than i do also... stock motors with TT Kits

 

I did not mean to indicate that only a TT will blow it. I was saying eventually it will go just like any other kit on stock motor, and/or NA motor for that matter. I'm just justifying cost over time. That's what all this is about. Not jumping on TT or ST just stating in time. How to you people keep turning my words around. READ and reread. We just ended up on TT, nothing against them at all.

 

Go with the Greddy TT kit.

 

I talked with Sharif the other day and he recommended the APS TT kit for my needs and application since I am installing it myself and require a complete kit out of the box. I am going to follow that route and what the hell, I am going to put an APS 2.5" exhaust system in there as well.

 

I'd slap in a turbo kit with very low boost just to get the high pictched SHOOOOMMMM noise. I love my engine and I don't want it to boost! Yes I'm a ricer.

 

Nice choice all things considered. I don't know why, but APS gets little love on this forum. Although there are quite a few guys running them (ST and TT), it always seems like things turn into a GReddy or TN discussion...

Anyway, good luck with the build. Make sure you post up pics and info as you get into it .

 

It seems like thier Single Turbo kit gets a bad rap. I have read a lot of issues of boost drop from it. The Twin kit seems to be less problematic and a much better system all the way around. What is most important to me is it being complete and stand-alone.

I was looking at the simplicity of the Single Turbo set up but to make it safe would cost me about the same as just getting a twin turbo setup. Might as well do the twins. Install is going to be a serious PIA though but I like a challenge.