ok so i got my tax refund....
5,500 is not enough as JDMFairlady already stated...... That may get you a Turbo kit or not....... Ranges from 5-8000.. Then youll need to upgrade radiator, ems w/ piggy back like UTEC, gauges to monitor your cars heartbeat w/ boost/ etc, labor, and dyno+tune. You can easily break 12k
Originally Posted by michaeljr6
very true ^
she was prom queen, in a beauty pagent, cooks good pho, drives an rsx-s......
she was prom queen, in a beauty pagent, cooks good pho, drives an rsx-s......
Originally Posted by iceagetlc
You could always go stillen. Stage 1 is 3800, get the cowl for 300, install around 5-1k.
i'd rather get twins and be super happy...
don't let the guys here scare you off going FI with your budget. You may find a used vortech kit for 3500 or less, then a used utec for like $600, install and tune for about 1500. You will need a lot of little stuff here and there, that'll add up, but 5500 will definitely get you going for sure. to hell with boltons, go straight to fi.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,175
Likes: 132
From: Florida
I am only getting 3600. Age 22 
Project Cheap boost... 
Good luck with your project. I am sure you can do a Supercharger setup. I know Jermey has a special 6877 for the setup installed and tuned(correct me if I am wrong)...
Project Cheap boost... Good luck with your project. I am sure you can do a Supercharger setup. I know Jermey has a special 6877 for the setup installed and tuned(correct me if I am wrong)...
5500 is enough man don't waste it on bolt ons for n/a. pick up a used s/c kit for 3-3500. get a utec and tune and a/f and boost gauge and there you go. Some respectable power. you can get the extras later as you go.
Originally Posted by Cannysage
don't let the guys here scare you off going FI with your budget. You may find a used vortech kit for 3500 or less, then a used utec for like $600, install and tune for about 1500. You will need a lot of little stuff here and there, that'll add up, but 5500 will definitely get you going for sure. to hell with boltons, go straight to fi.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Wildomar CA
This board is littered with VQ35 engines blown up by FI on stock internals, FI will cook your engine, it is just a question of when based on how much boost you run, including mine…Yes, I am rebuilding to continue with FI, but I already have a bunch of sunk cost around FI so that is my rationalization. However, if I had opportunity to do the whole modification process over again. I would tell you if you are not ready to rebuild the internals I would hold off on the FI.
Rebuild 10K + Turbo 10K (Kit, FMIC, Install, Gauges, Controls) + Clutch 2K = 22K
Here is one man’s recommendation….
Phase 1 NA improvements – 2006 Tax Return (most form on the street return)
CAI - AEM
Plenum spacer – 5/16” Kennix or motordyne
Headers - Stillen
Hi Flow cats - Crawford
Exhaust – Borla
ECU and Dyno Tune – best local shop (do a search you can find one on here)
Phase 2 – 2007 Tax Return (most fun on the track return)
Brakes - if you don’t have Brembo’s
Suspension - Nismo s-tune suspension and sways
Wheels and Tires – Wheels are personal taste just make sure they are forged and stable and can handle the stress. Same for tires depends on how you drive.
After that, I think you hit the point of diminishing returns on the Z platform us less you are ready to do a full rebuild. I don’t know how you drive or if you autocross or track you car. If you do street only then don’t go super low profile on the tires, pot holes and stuff will cost you too much money.
If you do track, auto-cross or other performance driving, I personally found that the NA power with great brakes and a better suspension and tires give a much greater cash to fun benefit. I never tracked a car before my Z, and I have to tell you, the best investment I made was getting a track model with the Brembos and a good HPDE teacher. You really don’t know what your car is capable of until you put it in the hands of a great driver and watch and learn. I never knew how vital brakes were to driving fast until I spent time on the track. You will never look at driving the same way.
Confessions from one guy who has spent way too much money on his Z so far, I love my Z and will be the first to admit it cost to much money to compete head to head with other platforms (on raw ¼ mile times and Dyno HP #), but the improvements above, I think, give maximum fun for the money. One thing I have learned from watching the cars that have been built for the time-attack competitions is that good balance and the best driver win over raw power. I would save the extra to by a new GTR when you can.
Rebuild 10K + Turbo 10K (Kit, FMIC, Install, Gauges, Controls) + Clutch 2K = 22K
Here is one man’s recommendation….
Phase 1 NA improvements – 2006 Tax Return (most form on the street return)
CAI - AEM
Plenum spacer – 5/16” Kennix or motordyne
Headers - Stillen
Hi Flow cats - Crawford
Exhaust – Borla
ECU and Dyno Tune – best local shop (do a search you can find one on here)
Phase 2 – 2007 Tax Return (most fun on the track return)
Brakes - if you don’t have Brembo’s
Suspension - Nismo s-tune suspension and sways
Wheels and Tires – Wheels are personal taste just make sure they are forged and stable and can handle the stress. Same for tires depends on how you drive.
After that, I think you hit the point of diminishing returns on the Z platform us less you are ready to do a full rebuild. I don’t know how you drive or if you autocross or track you car. If you do street only then don’t go super low profile on the tires, pot holes and stuff will cost you too much money.
If you do track, auto-cross or other performance driving, I personally found that the NA power with great brakes and a better suspension and tires give a much greater cash to fun benefit. I never tracked a car before my Z, and I have to tell you, the best investment I made was getting a track model with the Brembos and a good HPDE teacher. You really don’t know what your car is capable of until you put it in the hands of a great driver and watch and learn. I never knew how vital brakes were to driving fast until I spent time on the track. You will never look at driving the same way.
Confessions from one guy who has spent way too much money on his Z so far, I love my Z and will be the first to admit it cost to much money to compete head to head with other platforms (on raw ¼ mile times and Dyno HP #), but the improvements above, I think, give maximum fun for the money. One thing I have learned from watching the cars that have been built for the time-attack competitions is that good balance and the best driver win over raw power. I would save the extra to by a new GTR when you can.
Last edited by shaun_walsh; Feb 25, 2007 at 09:25 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
From: Wildomar CA
When I got my Z I had never modified a car before. I have learned some very expensive lessons, I have spent over 70K over the past 4 years and regretted about 30K of it and I hate to see other folks spend the money unless they need/want to. There is nothing worse than spending 5K today, when you really needed to spend 15K to do it right and then losing the initial money.
