Ok guys, im having a HUGE problem right now...i recently had my Turbonetics ST setup installed by GRD and finally got tuned. However, i only made 330whp (which is TERRIBLE since i used to run N20 and was probably doing around that in terms of whp with my old 100shot...or more). The individual that tuned my car has NO idea why i would be getting these numbers (the person that had the kit before me made 396whp at GRD with the same individual tuning it). And on top of that, i have JWT Cams that should give me another 25+hp...and im not even doing what a stock Z should do with this kit. Even the individual tuning said i should be well into the 400's...but doesnt know why im not getting the #'s i should be. If someone could chime in with ANY experiences, suggestions, or ideas it would be greatly appreciated. I feel completely robbed in the fact that for the 6000.00 i spent on the turbo and install, im doing basically the same whp that i was doing when i spent a little over 1000.00 for my N20 . PLEASE, any help would be great. Thanks fellas!

P.S.- The kit is essentially new, so its not b/c it is an old kit. The individual that had it before me only had it for a very short period of time. Thanks again

 

I would start with a compression test to make sure the motor is healthy. Then once you check that, if it is good, there are many directions you can head. What are you using to tune it with? How much boost (same as person before?), af, timing? Check engine light - if so, pull the codes.

 

Im using UTEC to tune, and im running a bit less boost than the individual before me (i believe he was running 9lbs of boost...im at 8). The check engine light was on, we already pulled the codes, and its already back on. The individual that tuned it said that i would always have a check engine light on basically.... and I have no idea what a/f i was running (they never gave me a dyno chart printout or anything).

The only thing they said was that there was a chance that my cams were not installed correctly by the performance shop that did them, thus im actually losing power...I personally dont believe they were installed incorrectly due to the fact that i experienced things such as stalling at idle, since my rpm had not been raised yet (as recommended by JWT for these cams). Not to mention the people that installed them have a very good reputation....Is this even possible that i could LOSE power from cams that are not timed correctly? Is there a way to check? How much?

 

Well I basicly have the same numbers as you do. In which this is a non revup motor. I also had the SSV in which I installed to a Crawford today. Waiting to find out results shortly to see if any improvements. My a/f ratio is about 11.5 on average. What kind of dyno where you on? I was on an DD. I'm running 8lbs. of boost as of now. I still love though. I should state I don't have cams.

So you really didn't lose HP, just didn't get what you wanted. Every motor is different but I see what your saying though. What motor trim (revup/ non revup) do you/ your buddy have? There's got to be a little difference between the revup and non revup in HP output I would think. This is what I accounted for on top of the SSV. Maybe just a theory.

 

if the compression is good what are the codes if they are nothing important (w/ fi u usually will have a code especially if u have test pipes) check cam timing if all is good fire tuner


u should not worry to much if you have a healthy motor

 

A little curious as to what kinda dyno this was one? If it was a mustang dyno, with no correction, then your numbers are not that bad. If you can drive good, take it to the track and see what you get for a trap speed. If its less then 108 mph, I would be upset. More then 111mph, I would be happy!

 

Some dyno charts with a boost and AFR log would help up understand what was going on...

 

i also dynoed a 330 with same setup 8 psi and a plenum spacer and magnaflow exhaust.....my boy with same setup dynoed 364 without spacer and a 3" JIC exhaust......so don't feel bad its all around there. as long as your car is running healthy and your happy with the way it performs when you drive is all that matters. plus if its your daily driver, why stress the engine more?

 

its called all dyno's read differently. shock horror.

american's are obsessed with dyno figures fudge fudg fudge

 

lol

 

If it was GRD's dyno, they use a DynoPak, so these numbers should be higher. But without every single mod, and seeing some dyno charts, it would impossible to tell you why your numbers are lower than average. on our low reading DynoDynamics, 330-350whp is very typical with the TN kit.

If the cams were installed incorrectly )(timing chain improperly setup), there are usually some pretty obvious symptoms...poor idle...bad hesistations, check engine lights..etc..etc.

 

I don't know if this will help you or not, but this is what I found when I lost my power - of course, it showed up in a lack of boost. I ended up replacing this piece of the TN kit with a high pressure hose.

 

Well now my car wont even start!! I just went out today to start my car and drive it over to GRD for a gague install that they were supposed to do when the kit was installed, and the car wouldn't turn over! GRD called me b/c i was so late, and after talking to the them the only thing they said i could do was tow it out there Im very frustrated right now!! Does anyone have any idea why this could be happening??

 

Is the battery dead?

 

Nope, battery is fine. I can hear the fuel pump when i turn the key. I just cant get it to turn over....could it be the cams?

 

lol. You probably have a boost leak. If the cams were put in wrong the car would drive all fkd up.

 

I have a 2003 Non-REVUP engine

 

Also, i had my idle raised for the cams....could that possibly have anything to do with anything?

 

A boost leak wouldn't keep the car from turning over. I have the TN kit myself and have never seen this.

Being as that you have the UTEC, is it possible that some parameters coudl cause the car not to turn over ( I knowthe UTEC is only supposed to kick in when boost comes on).

What about some massive vacuum leaks elsewhere in the bay?

 

No, i dont think theres any vacuum leaks anywhere... and when GRD called me, i had the individual tuning listen and he said it sounded like i wasnt getting fuel. The only thing i can think of is improper installation of something due to the fact that everything on my car was from a used kid (even tho barely), and it all worked fine on the previous owner's cars.