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Bottom end build up... comments please?

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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 08:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by George@GTM
Usually a built short block, with installation, will run about 9200.00, http://gtmotorsports.test.gatesix.co...cat=459&page=1
this is from start to finish. "Turn-key" setup as DanielW would describe it.

Hope this helps,

-George
GT Motorsports
thanks for the input. The site Looks Great BTW
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
Whatever you do, don't try to put it together yourself
Lol screw you haha... I don't have any regrets doing my turbo install, I learned an amazing amount about my car. But.. Don't worry I'm no going to try and do this project myself.

So what power levels would this build I have in mind support? 500rwhp?

Ziv did you piece your build together or buy a preassembled short block?

Thanks for the help so far guys!
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by jining
Lol screw you haha... I don't have any regrets doing my turbo install, I learned an amazing amount about my car. But.. Don't worry I'm no going to try and do this project myself.

So what power levels would this build I have in mind support? 500rwhp?

Ziv did you piece your build together or buy a preassembled short block?

Thanks for the help so far guys!
The shop I wanted to build my motor was in transition to a new building, so I kept the build local. I bought the parts and had a local engine shop do the machine work, balanced and assembled the lower end, and prepped the heads (new valve stem seals, new springs and shims). From that point, I had my mechanic do the remaining assembly and install into the car. I probably saved about 1000-1500 with the use of my mechanic vs a shop. My build included a new set of ED pistons, new crank, engine rebuild gasket kit, new bearings through out, new timing chains and cam chains, new oil pump, new water pump, HKS head gaskets, L19 studs, cams, springs and shims, rental of a tq plate -> essentially a full long block.... keep in mind, I bought a new core to the tune of 800 bucks (as I didn't want to run a 40 over bore using my original block) and I still came in well under the stated $9200 George quoted when all was said and done; and I had a full long block vs a short block, which itself can be a $1300 - $2000 difference

I fully understand prices from different areas vary, but I know full well what you can get for your money.... if you shop around, you should be able to get a full longblock (I consider a long block a fully assembled motor with cams and springs/shims) installed for under 10K
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 10:51 PM
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Do you think it is necessary for me to buy a new core? My block has 60k miles on it, 2k of them fi'ed. Otherwise it was not driven very hard.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by jining
Do you think it is necessary for me to buy a new core? My block has 60k miles on it, 2k of them fi'ed. Otherwise it was not driven very hard.
no, your core should be fine... my core had already been bored to a 20 over and I didn't want to make the cylinder walls any thinner with another 20 over
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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zivman,

where did you rent the torque plate?
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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Eagle rods are excellent. Someone please show me one case of failure on them!
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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What are Eagle Rods rated at hp max?
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by IslandZavage
What are Eagle Rods rated at hp max?
Eagle claims 1500HP for 6 cylinder applications for the 3D H-beam rods with the 3/8" ARP 2000 bolts.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by QuadCam
zivman,

where did you rent the torque plate?
I rented it from Sharif @ forged performance
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I am saying i generally dont use them,unless requested by a customer.Not trying to start a flame war here, just my opinion,so nock it off with the flamey faces.
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..

OK....Then I will put the flames out
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I am saying i generally dont use them,unless requested by a customer.Not trying to start a flame war here, just my opinion,so nock it off with the flamey faces.
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..
having a preference is different that stating that buying eagle rods is "under buying" them. I have no problem if you prefer pauters or whatever, but again, that is different than saying buying eagles is under buying your rods
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Zivman
having a preference is different that stating that buying eagle rods is "under buying" them. I have no problem if you prefer pauters or whatever, but again, that is different than saying buying eagles is under buying your rods
The point I was making, is that he was going big time baller on the pistons, so why not upgrade the rods? Im hard pressed to find an aftermarket piston that will fail at his power goals from proper tune and use..
Eagle themselves market an "ECONO" rod series for the VQ do they not? So why would he spend double the money of the rods on the pistons?
The ED pistons are a bit heavy,and I prefer them on a more stout rod myself..
That didnt sound right....
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:31 PM
  #34  
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so what kind of power would this setup support? im at 410rwhp @ 8psi right now
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by athenG
Why not just go buy a built short block from IPP? Price will be cheaper even upgrading some of the parts. https://my350z.com/forum/engine/289359-ipp-engine-packages-at-great-prices-1-yr-warranty-and-new-lower-core-charges.html His Stage I is enough to handle your 400whp.
What is a good safe boost level running the $2600.00 block with stock head? And to clear everything up it's going to be another $2-3k just to install a $2600.00 block?
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
The point I was making, is that he was going big time baller on the pistons, so why not upgrade the rods? Im hard pressed to find an aftermarket piston that will fail at his power goals from proper tune and use..
Eagle themselves market an "ECONO" rod series for the VQ do they not? So why would he spend double the money of the rods on the pistons?
The ED pistons are a bit heavy,and I prefer them on a more stout rod myself..
That didnt sound right....
The money is better spent on the ED pistons because of the stronger ringlands.
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The eagle rods won't be an issue until you approach 1XXX hp, where as the pistons will become issue around 550-600; and potentially sooner depending on the tune. The fact that the rods are about 1/2 the price (saving you about 500 bucks) of the pauters is just icing on the cake
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ni$mo350
What is a good safe boost level running the $2600.00 block with stock head? And to clear everything up it's going to be another $2-3k just to install a $2600.00 block?
it can easily be 3K to install that $2600 block when you factor in all that is needed...
- removal of original motor, and removal of turbo kit if so equipped
- tear down of original motor
- Long block assembly - putting heads on, setting timing chains, cams, oil pans, accessories etc
- install of turbo kit
- reinstall of motor into car
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:04 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Zivman
The money is better spent on the ED pistons because of the stronger ringlands.



The eagle rods won't be an issue until you approach 1XXX hp, where as the pistons will become issue around 550-600; and potentially sooner depending on the tune. The fact that the rods are about 1/2 the price (saving you about 500 bucks) of the pauters is just icing on the cake
That a Corrilo "H" beam rod there??
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
That a Corrilo "H" beam rod there??
Nope, "dollar" store, econo eagle rods
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Zivman
What the hell happened to that piston? I have never seen the bottom ring break. Usually, the top will melt or one of the upper ring lands will crack.
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