Bottom end build up... comments please?
12-29-2007, 08:39 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by George@GTM
Usually a built short block, with installation, will run about 9200.00, http://gtmotorsports.test.gatesix.co...cat=459&page=1
this is from start to finish. "Turn-key" setup as DanielW would describe it.
Hope this helps,
-George
GT Motorsports
this is from start to finish. "Turn-key" setup as DanielW would describe it.
Hope this helps,
-George
GT Motorsports
12-29-2007, 09:41 PM
#22
Originally Posted by failsafe306
Whatever you do, don't try to put it together yourself 
So what power levels would this build I have in mind support? 500rwhp?
Ziv did you piece your build together or buy a preassembled short block?
Thanks for the help so far guys!
12-29-2007, 10:14 PM
#23
Originally Posted by jining
Lol screw you haha... I don't have any regrets doing my turbo install, I learned an amazing amount about my car. But.. Don't worry I'm no going to try and do this project myself.
So what power levels would this build I have in mind support? 500rwhp?
Ziv did you piece your build together or buy a preassembled short block?
Thanks for the help so far guys!
So what power levels would this build I have in mind support? 500rwhp?
Ziv did you piece your build together or buy a preassembled short block?
Thanks for the help so far guys!
I fully understand prices from different areas vary, but I know full well what you can get for your money.... if you shop around, you should be able to get a full longblock (I consider a long block a fully assembled motor with cams and springs/shims) installed for under 10K
12-30-2007, 09:00 AM
#25
Originally Posted by jining
Do you think it is necessary for me to buy a new core? My block has 60k miles on it, 2k of them fi'ed. Otherwise it was not driven very hard.
12-30-2007, 11:54 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I am saying i generally dont use them,unless requested by a customer.Not trying to start a flame war here, just my opinion,so nock it off with the flamey faces.
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..
OK....Then I will put the flames out
12-30-2007, 12:17 PM
#32
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I am saying i generally dont use them,unless requested by a customer.Not trying to start a flame war here, just my opinion,so nock it off with the flamey faces.
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..
We have our preference of parts as do other shops/builders..
12-30-2007, 12:21 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Zivman
having a preference is different that stating that buying eagle rods is "under buying" them. I have no problem if you prefer pauters or whatever, but again, that is different than saying buying eagles is under buying your rods
Eagle themselves market an "ECONO" rod series for the VQ do they not? So why would he spend double the money of the rods on the pistons?
The ED pistons are a bit heavy,and I prefer them on a more stout rod myself..
That didnt sound right....
12-30-2007, 12:40 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by athenG
Why not just go buy a built short block from IPP? Price will be cheaper even upgrading some of the parts. https://my350z.com/forum/engine/289359-ipp-engine-packages-at-great-prices-1-yr-warranty-and-new-lower-core-charges.html His Stage I is enough to handle your 400whp.
12-30-2007, 12:52 PM
#36
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
The point I was making, is that he was going big time baller on the pistons, so why not upgrade the rods? Im hard pressed to find an aftermarket piston that will fail at his power goals from proper tune and use..
Eagle themselves market an "ECONO" rod series for the VQ do they not? So why would he spend double the money of the rods on the pistons?
The ED pistons are a bit heavy,and I prefer them on a more stout rod myself..
That didnt sound right....
Eagle themselves market an "ECONO" rod series for the VQ do they not? So why would he spend double the money of the rods on the pistons?
The ED pistons are a bit heavy,and I prefer them on a more stout rod myself..
That didnt sound right....
The eagle rods won't be an issue until you approach 1XXX hp, where as the pistons will become issue around 550-600; and potentially sooner depending on the tune. The fact that the rods are about 1/2 the price (saving you about 500 bucks) of the pauters is just icing on the cake
12-30-2007, 12:54 PM
#37
Originally Posted by ni$mo350
What is a good safe boost level running the $2600.00 block with stock head? And to clear everything up it's going to be another $2-3k just to install a $2600.00 block?
- removal of original motor, and removal of turbo kit if so equipped
- tear down of original motor
- Long block assembly - putting heads on, setting timing chains, cams, oil pans, accessories etc
- install of turbo kit
- reinstall of motor into car
12-30-2007, 01:04 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by Zivman
The money is better spent on the ED pistons because of the stronger ringlands.
The eagle rods won't be an issue until you approach 1XXX hp, where as the pistons will become issue around 550-600; and potentially sooner depending on the tune. The fact that the rods are about 1/2 the price (saving you about 500 bucks) of the pauters is just icing on the cake
The eagle rods won't be an issue until you approach 1XXX hp, where as the pistons will become issue around 550-600; and potentially sooner depending on the tune. The fact that the rods are about 1/2 the price (saving you about 500 bucks) of the pauters is just icing on the cake