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Re-welding the TN kit

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Old Mar 5, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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Default Re-welding the TN kit

There have been a few posts about making the welds stronger on the TN kit. Is this on the up-pipe that actually connects to the turbo? In the instructions there are 2 pieces to the up-pipe, and like 3 for the down. And many of the posts are older, have they fixed this issue?
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Old Mar 6, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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Supposedly the weak link on the set-up that broke commonly was the up-pipe that feeds the turbo. It was the 2nd generation modified pipe that had "inferior" welds and kept breaking for a few individuals such as myself. Once I got the warranty replacement from Turbonetics, I ran it for about 1-2 months without any problems. So I guess you can say the fixed the problem. Not really sure about any recent changes since I have since stopped using Turbonetics products and moved to Greddy's instead.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 06:02 AM
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There's a tab that comes off the pipe that bolts on to the frame or block (I forget which off hand), and it has a lot of stress if piping is torqued down and not perfectly straight with no stress.

If I remember correctly, I just hacked it off and totally avoided any sort of stress in that area whatsoever. I didn't see the need for that brace.

It's been a while since I did this. Just make your own judgment call but do so at your own risk.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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The was a revision from the Wastegate discharge tube ( accordian looking pipe ) PN 21200 into a new braided pipe which allows more flexibilty under stress. I am still running the old setup on my car but based on what I have seen the new revision has worked well.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed 718
The was a revision from the Wastegate discharge tube ( accordian looking pipe ) PN 21200 into a new braided pipe which allows more flexibilty under stress. I am still running the old setup on my car but based on what I have seen the new revision has worked well.
Good info. I wasn't aware of this.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by taurran
Good info. I wasn't aware of this.
+1 me neither. I have the accordian looking pipe as well.

What is the cost of the new braided pipe, Ed?
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 10:54 AM
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Here are the pictures of the new revision



PN 21824 retail at $350........
If you need to get this contact Greg @ Gspec and he can get that for you. He can be contacted at 760-535-2259.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:03 AM
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Thanks Ed! At that price I think I will take my chances with the old version, but its nice to know that if something happens revisions have been made
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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You can probably get the pipe for much less than retail (I believe that's what he quoted), or else just pull your own off and weld a flex section in yourself. That's if you ever have problems, I mean.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SpoilsofWar
Thanks Ed! At that price I think I will take my chances with the old version, but its nice to know that if something happens revisions have been made
Yeah I'm running mine with no issues at all. Keep in mind also that is the RETAIL price on that pipe so if you were to go through Greg you would get a better price than that.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:25 AM
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Right, I will call Greg up and see what the price thru Gspec is just to satisfy my curiousity.

BTW, how recently was this change made?
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 11:38 AM
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This pipe eliminates to pipes into one which is the discharge tube and another U pipe. I don't have a picture of that pipe installed in my car but I am sure someone does or can post it. The revision is fairly new maybe about 6 months or so and all the new kits are now being shipped with the wet housing and the pipes. We still have the old accordian pipe ( PN 21200 ) in stock which is $152 retail. We will eventually obsolete that part but in the mean time they are still available.

Last edited by Ed 718; Mar 7, 2008 at 11:43 AM.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by taurran
There's a tab that comes off the pipe that bolts on to the frame or block (I forget which off hand), and it has a lot of stress if piping is torqued down and not perfectly straight with no stress.

If I remember correctly, I just hacked it off and totally avoided any sort of stress in that area whatsoever. I didn't see the need for that brace.

It's been a while since I did this. Just make your own judgment call but do so at your own risk.
Iv done the same thing at the same location---I repaired with a stainless patch that I Tigged

If Im not mistaken that is the bracket that bolts to the A/C bolt

Last edited by Eazzy; Mar 7, 2008 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ed 718
Here are the pictures of the new revision


PN 21824 retail at $350........
If you need to get this contact Greg @ Gspec and he can get that for you. He can be contacted at 760-535-2259.
Much better !!
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 02:27 PM
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taurran, you change your avitar back right now worksafe boobies ftl
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Old Mar 7, 2008 | 03:41 PM
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ok, I have the braided flex pipe. How do I make the open dump? I'm guessing that is the wastegate discharge pipe, but do I have to cut anything?
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