I never launch my car from a dig but was testing my car out with my friend, who's got the hr 07 with an hks exhaust. he had 2 cars on me before I started moving.. is this normal? same thing happened with a friggin mini van that would let me pass. he had more than a car length before i start moving. I've driven my friend's 07 and 0-40 is fun as hell, cuz it just goes and it grips, right from a dig

I'm gonna try out some toyo r888s on my next set, for better traction. any tips on improving my launch would be helpful. I track about 2-3x a year, but haven't hit the drag strip yet. I wanted to upgrade my axles before I went, but may have to hit it. I'm running toyo proxys 285. I wanna be hitting 9s.











ok, I'm kidding.. high 11s will suffice.

 

LOL-you want 9's or even 11's? Doesnt everybody on this site?

Power?

Rear camber?

At a certain power level more doesnt mean faster. You have to learn to peddle 1st gear, and second if need be.

I read of people with less than 600whp spinning into 4th, yet I can hook up 100% in 2nd gear (with much more power than my 1st set-up made) with -1 rear camber and 295 KDW2's, not some overpriced, no life Toyo R888 road course tire.

Funny, the people who generally claim they spin 3rd cant drag race worth a $hit.

Throttle control is key!!

 

i definitely need to work on my throttle control, more so on 1st gear
i'm at 501whp. I thought the r888s were pretty good from what i've heard.

 

Well they are no doubt about that.

I just feel like most havent taken all the measures possible before turning to a road race tire for the street. Id bet out of all the people worried about straight line traction enough to get R888's, that nobody has tried to align the car for as much + camber as possible.

Things like proper alignment, suspension and throttle modulation make all the difference on the street.

 

You want to run a quarter mile in 9.xx seconds. I thought I talked with you about smoking that stuff. It makes you silly.

 

throttle control thats the key you just gotta know the point to where you can rev your rpms to with out breaking the tires loose like bert said .

 

good stuff.. never added camber into equation. my suspension is very stable, and vehicle drives straight as an arrow at 140+


ehh.. read the bottom part.. i was kidding.

 

KDW2s FTW....I had 245mm Bridgestone Potenzas and would spin 3rd on a cold day and now if I warm up my tires(275mm) I will hook first going WOT

 

It has alot more to do than just going straight at higher speeds. going straight at lower speeds with all that torque trying to steer you off in different directions makes a difference. this is why when setting up a suspension for drag vs setting up a car for straight lines become very different. all the little settings will make a difference.


Heres some of the basics
http://www.advancedracing.com/chassissetup.php

 

The more negative camber you have the less contact patch your tires have with the road. then when you accelerate from a dig the suspention squats and makes it even worse. Your car can still handle good with lots of negative camber but for straight line traction less negative camber is better.

 

I get a much better launch when its 85*+ outside, much much better...but PSI drops

 

camber is a big issue. when i first lowered my car the traction loss was night and day.