Here are the details. OEM Crank but not the original for the bolt. I have a built block so this crank is from a different car.

Everything is assembled and perfect except when i tried to put in my crank pulley.

At first, the bolt goes in easy for 5 turns, then it binds up and cant turn by hand. I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and blew it out. tried it a few times. then one time i took the bolt and decided to turn it by wrench but only turned it 180 degrees and stopped cuz i knew something was wrong.

Take a look at this. Does this look stripped to you?

Also, idk what year this shorblock came from but do the crank pulley bolts differ from one year to the other?





Heres also my block with pretty colors

 

The best advice I can give you is to buy a tap and chase the threads to clean them up.

 

Ur pics are huge... Looks like u need to clean those threads up....

 

Thats what im gonna end of doing.

 

only the first but had to, to show detail

 

what you are doing is cross threading it just retap it and you shodul be fine but make sure you use LOTS of lube when ya do it so it comes out really nice

 

We use a spacer and crank bolt to rotate the shortblock during assembly. Like I mentioned over the phone, I can send you another crank bolt. Bad threads would have been caught at multiple points during the assembly process.

But it wouldnt hurt to run a chase through there and clean it up.

BTW, your engine looks so pretty.

 

Do you know how hard it is to crossthread a crank bolt on this car. A crossthread happens when the bolts not straight when inserted. There really isnt much room for the bolt to play so its almost impossible to cross thread this. and how can it go in 5 turns by hand if its cross thread.

1. either something is stuck in the thread.
2. im using a bolt with the wrong pitch.

but ya, either way i gotta tap it and clean the threads.

 

Ya, can you send that bolt asap. I need to get this running already.

This is kinda funny in a way. acouple of days ago, one of the techs was like, "are you excited". I was like "not really". He said " why". I said, " cuz something always goes wrong". Ladies and gentlmen of the jury, i rest my case.

 

IDK but from what I see it looks like there's a helicoil in there.
If there is a helicoil in there chasing a tap thru will be a major fubar.

 

can you say taht again in english. thanx

 

quick question about the clutch disc. Which way does it face. One side's flat and the other sid has the middle stick out. I know i sound like a noob but im real bad with technical names. Now which side faces flywheel and which the pressure plate. or does it only fit one way.

 

clutch disk will only fit one way in most cases either way the side that sticks out will face the clutch pressure plate ... most cars/clutch set ups it would bind w/ the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank.

as far as the crank, it almost does look like there is a thread insert in there. maybe it is just the picture, but it looks like about 2 or 3 threads in, it makes a step like a heli-coil has been inserted. that would explain whey it feels like your bolt spins in by hand really easy at first and then gets tight. got any better pics?

 

it does look like a heliciol might be in there, but the first few threads would feel REALLY sloppy if that was the case. just hard to tell for sure from the pic.

fyi everyone- a crank socket for a small block chevy fits the vq crank snout and keyway perfectly and is aluminum.

 

Wow, I think you're right. That does look like a helicoil. About a fourth of the way from the top of the threads...

 

See if you can get a bolt that will fit that size thread.

 

can someone please explain what a helicoil is and how its formed.

 

It's a threaded insert to repair damaged threads

 

http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv

 

So that spring looking object is put in the hole with the damaged thread?

So what you guys are saying is that these threads in the crank hole has been stripped and then tried to be repaired?... Which is why my bolt wont fit?