Looks nice, I may jump on this...

 

Why couldn't you have found this before I purchased my Elite Engineering catch can!

lol

Good find, Looks better than the Elite one, since its not as fat, and the price is even better!

-George

 

Whats wrong with the Greddy catch can?

 

Baffles and screens are used in order to get more oil out of the air.

 

Exactly. Unbaffled, simple cans dont even do 50% of the job they should.

 

I got the can shipped for $89. I found a place to install it on the front of the engine under the cover. it's the only option I had. Since It will be hidden mostly under the engine cover I just went for the brasss fittings instead of the AN fittings. I will plumb it tomorrow. here is a quick pic. This thing is nice!

 

Mike Norris...he used to run Next Level Performance here in Orlando. We had our first 2 Florida G35 Club dyno days there.

 

That's him....

 

I feel u... I got the same one about 2 weeks before he posted. I do have to admit, the Elite one is pretty good quality. I wish it was polished

Also, thanks for helping me over the phone with the overheating issues.

 

The LS1 guys have been using this exact catch can for years. Very good reviews.

 

No problem bro, did that method work for you? Hope your issues were resolved.

 

Any idea where you can get that plastic baffling that looks like a brillo pad? I'm thinking of stuffing that crap in the Cusco and running a inline oil or fuel filter on the outgoing hose to keep any stray baffeling material from making it's way into the intake.

 

Yup, everything is good now. Also I just bought the Vpro u were selling a while back, hehe. When I get all the parts and the money Ill be sure to stop by GTM for the install. Hope u can hook me up

 

I've been running Chor Boy stainless pot scrubber mesh in mine for over a year. Works great. Won't rust or break off.

 

this looks good, might ditch the greddy since i cant find a good place for it with the twins. too big : (

 

Catch cans work on velocity, not filtration. Adding filter material just help atomize the oil.

Good = keeping PCV. Positive Crankcase Ventilation aka. Vacuum. A vacuum in the crankcase helps the rings seal and do their job, also helps to keep as much blow by gasses from being captured by the oil. Remember when your motor is running the oil will start to turn into a vapor inside the motor and that will collect all the acidic blow by gasses.

Good = keeping oil out of your intake. Oil pools up in your intake, clogs sensors, is hard to compress, and burns like ****. The reason you have a catch can is to get that oil vapor out of the air.

The way that a catch can works is to stall the high velocity air, just like stalling a plane, the oil comes out the 1/2" hose into a large volume area and it basically stops. The oil will clump together when the velocity drops and it will gather on the sides of the catch can, and pool at the bottom. The bigger the change between the size of the hose and the size of the catch can the better.

You also want the air coming out of the tube to aim at an angle if possible to the can. Like spraying a hose at a wall, if you spray it at a 90 degree angle it splatters and goes everywhere. If you spray it at an angle it will fan out and slow down, exactly what you wan to try and achieve.

You also want to maintain a vacuum on the outgoing side. On an NA car that can be found anywhere, usually you put it in front of the throttle body but after a MAF sensor so you don't goof up the MAF with any oil that makes it past. On a FI car you want it in front of the compressor, so it remains in vacuum. If you put it after the compressor it will turn to boost, and adding crankcase pressure is a no no. If you're worried about oil getting to the compressor, then get a better oil catch can and maintain your motor, it shouldn't be putting out tons of oil unless there is something wrong.

On big power cars that are specifically built loose, this does not apply. Those cars are designed to have blow by till they hit a high boost level. In the case of these motors, your engine builder will specify how to vent the crankcase.

The Greddy (not greedy) catch cans have always been decently priced and well built. They have a baffle inside of them to help with some of the points I hit on. They also come with a sighting tube so you know to drain the can, the more oil in the can the less velocity differential. Although I would replace the tube they come with, it tends to look gross after a few weeks and kinks really easy. Some vehicles may require a second catch can just based on volume, but I'd try and make sure you have enough vacuum to support it before doing it. Velocity is the name of the game when it comes to catch cans.

 

The propper description is called a particle seperator. As the oil filled air enters the catch can the air with considerably lower mass can changer direction and flow out of the catch can where anything with mass keeps travelling in the same direction towards the end of the catch can.

This particle seperator won't work on work on vaporized oil held in suspension. So while the particle seperator principle of a catch can will work for oil not in suspension it will not work for vapor.

In order for vaporized oil to be desposited it must condense on something. That something is steel wool or some other type of matterial (baffling). So a baffled can should catch more oil.

 

Not in a high velocity. Air doesn't just trickle through. If you look at most of these units the material that is supposed to be used as an Air Scrubber (not a filter) is directly at the point of highest velocity. It would only work once the air was in the catch can chamber and velocity was slowed.

 

Second post because I can't edit...

Also the use of an Air Scrubber is generally errant in this purpose as thats what the chamber walls are used for. If the walls weren't an efficient medium of collecting the oil, your motor would run dry in a few minutes, yet the vapor in the motor settles against all surfaces and drains back down into the oil pan.

Any filter material would become drenched in oil rather quickly, most people would end up putting too much filter material in or using too dense a material (scotch bright works if you have a large enough chamber). I've seen a number of SCCA cars with a large can using something similar but it requires generally a fairly large canister, and a large surface area on the air scrubber material.


Too many people think a large fuel filter will work. The fuel filter becomes clogged rapidly and then the vacuum becomes nearly nothing, defeating the use of PCV. I say for 90% of people that aren't liquid or gas specialist engineers these things are left to the known working devices like the Greddy catch can. If though you happen to have a background in fluid dynamics or other such education, then feel free to test your theories.

Too many people want to try some new cool idea without having any real grasp of why or how things work. This looks cool and it's cheap, I'll try it.

 

Nice find.